Leaking Fuel Pressure Regulator - YouTube This is pretty good.

 

I would if I were you AND had the money. Otherwise, it seems like a fairly easy job. Reading on here, I dont get the feeling there's a big difference in power or economy if the poppet assy is in good shape. Just reliability.I didnt invent it.. I just read / watch and rememebr and extrapolate WHY. I remember MANY times doing hide seek on SBC's.
- Doing Ford 2.3 OHC's is SO much easier!!! Just mark Timing belt cam sprocket against cover at TDC. Practically lines itself up

I havent had to do it yet but for me the key thing is taking off the belt to prevent turning the engine accidently.. why it's best to also chalk mark the crank damper...and that dist mark.
What I am going to TRY is running in a headless 1 inch bolt in place of the hold-down so that I'm forced to lift and drop the dist straight. Then all I have to do is mark the point where the spiral gear disengages. I'm pretty sure that will work but have to DO IT before I suggest it.

 

The Youtube video in post #11 does not apply to your 1996 engine. The video applies to 1995 and older "W" engines, (CMFI) only. Your 1996, (& newer) has CSFI. It's a totally different system using different diagnosis and repair procedures, different specifications, and different parts. I thought I made that point in post #5, apparently not

As mentioned, Felpro lower intake manifold gasket set MS98002T is the redesigned version. If the engine is properly cleaned and prepped, the installation, torque specs and tightening sequence are followed, it will not leak. If you use the OEM style, it will leak, guaranteed. If you decide to do the injector upgrade, you will not regret it. There is a noticeable improvement in performance and fuel mileage. The upgrade comes with a new fuel pressure regulator which is $50 to $90 by itself, the entire upgrade kit is under $200.

 

Sorry I left out that was not the same system, just wanted to show you how the regulator can leak without obvious signs. I also was unaware that the reg. for that one was 90 bucks, way to high not to upgrade. If I'm not mistaken, there is a bracket thats diffrent on the upgrade and people have been dissapointed when they have to stop work and wait for another part. As Hook said "entire upgrade kit". Make sure that's what you get. Rockauto has great customer service on the phone and will make sure you get everything you need. I know it sounds stupid but make sure . Nothing worse then not having one stupid part to finish. Good Luck!
*****LOT OF PARTS NOT TO DEAD HEAD PUMP******

 

Thanks for posting the link to the video...it really explains the compressed air technique.
And by "dead head", I assume you are referring to connecting the pressure gauge directly to the fuel line, with the spider out of the circuit.(?)
If that is your concern, yes I do plan to do the "dead head" test on the fuel pump...I just need to build the tool to do it.
Incidentally, I did hook the hand vacuum pump to the regulator, pulled 15 in. on the gauge, and it held rock steady for several minutes, so I think the regulator is OK...at least the diaphragm.
Also, I took some pictures that may show some fuel washing that I hadn't noticed when I was under the hood, but the pattern isn't obvious, so I may not know just what I'm looking at.
I'll try to get a couple posted tomorrow for y'all to examine.
Thanks to all for the input......I'll update when I have more info.

 

I think Petty came up with the "dead head" term, to me it always had to do with the smell of patchouli oil. Yes thats what is being refered to, the isolation of the fuel pump pressure with key on and not running. For all practical purpose everything points to gas coming out of something in the plenum. Everything in-there sould really look dirty from the EGR dumping exaust. Shiny gold looking metal indicates something is cleaning it ie. gas "washing". Also gas in the oil would not get there from an under or over active fuel pump, I don't think. Your not going to hurt anything by updating the system with fuel costing what it does. I edited my last post to mention the dead head test because I'm always scared of spending other peoples money. That said IMO get the upgrade kit, put it in and get back on the road. Peace Brother!

 

Yeah, I thought that was where you were going with that term.
I'm shopping RockAuto.com right now for the parts.
Can someone confirm these parts for me please?
DELPHI Part # FJ10565 SCPI to MFI Conversion - Complete Assembly $215.79
DELPHI Part # FH10098 SCPI to MFI Conversion - Mounting Bracket $20.79
FEL-PRO Part # MS98002T PermaDryPlus® int. manifold gskts $65.79
FEL-PRO Part # ES72224 Intake Manifold Bolt Set $20.00
They recommend replacing the manifold bolts, so I'll get them too.
If this seems correct I'm gonna go ahead and place the order.
Thanks a million to all of you guys for the help.

 

I dont get it. The torque specs for the manifold are ridiculously low. The reason for that is they install vertically and wedge down, thus the 'hold' is amplified.
I can understand it for standard -perpendicular to face- installation and obviously for 'stretch' head bolts.. but 13 foot lbs aint stressing those bolts. Gotta feeling it's just U&C for all gaskets for Felpro.
Use em anyway but..
Maybe Cap'n Hook can explain.

 

Here's a picture of the lower...apparently I had originally overlooked some possible fuel washing going on there on the right side of the picture.
Or am I misdiagnosing it?

 

Yep. Thats "Washdown". Can't confirm your parts order but on the phone Rockauto has always put the correct package together for me. They ship fast, back on the road in no-time.