Be careful with the cheaper stuff... You can't be guaranteed a long life out of those products.

Timken and SKF are two of the best bearing companies out there and make great replacement bearings for our trucks. BCA/National are ok as well, but the thing with that deal there is that they don't specify the manufacturer... I can say for sure that it isn't Timken or SKF. Heck, even the BCA/National bearings are almost the same price as the Timken ones I found.

Anyway, on the camber, that is changed via an cam bolt(s) where the control arm mounts to the frame. I cannot remember if it is the upper or lower control arm that is used though. This is something that should have been corrected for when the alignment was performed. At the very least, if there was something prohibiting them from properly setting the camber, they should have informed you.

How long has it been since you had the alignment done? Have you cranked your torsion bars?

 

The bearings i was referring to (which, unfortunately Icannot post a link to, since i own the business that sells them), are made by the same company that makes Timken's bearings. I run them on both sides of my ZR2, with 1.25" spacers and 33x12.50 tires and have had zero issues. They're definitely a quality unit.

 

Sounds good Jigg! I just know that there are good bearing manufacturers and bad bearing manufacturers. Definitely want to get the good ones because a hub/bearing replacement isn't something to be repeated often!

 

THIS is the link since Jigg cant post it

 

Awesome info and thanks for the link. So the one that I posted is definitely a no-go then, right?

Here's some visuals for you guys, I took them today. Oh and the maintence that I mentioned in the first post was all done about a month ago 9/25/2007.


Driver side


Passenger side

Here's a couple clips of the ball joints and the general underside:

 

Before you go dumping money on hubs run your hands in a complete circle around the tread of the tire. If you feel a lump, like a pregnant basketball, you have a broken belt in the tire. This would explain the whomp sound at all speeds. Dont forget to move the truck or jack the tires off the ground so you can feel the whole tire.

Another test is to rotate tires, if the noise moves, it ain't your hubs/bearings/cv/ etc.

 

Thanks for the info. I talked to the previous owner, and he said the tires were purchased at around 100k miles, which puts them at 36k right now.

He said he's replaced the driver side bearing this past year, and that he think's it's the bearing on the passenger side as well--but now I wonder if he's known that all along....hmm. Talked to Pep-boys who replaced the ball joints and they swear they would have noticed if the wheel bearing was bad. They said they yanked on the tire and found that it was only the ball joints...but I wonder if they just missed it.

I was going to rotate the tire to try and troubleshoot it myself, and found that my jack didn't go high enough to even lift the truck. But I'll keep looking into solving that problem.

 

I have seen bearings that were bad and not have any play in them. Rotating the tire while the tire is in teh air isn't a real good indicator. You really should have the weight of the truck ont eh bearings. Typical signs of wheel bearing is a grinding sound while going straight, and/or turning one direction and not the other. Advanced forms of wear it will grind all the time. Sometimes the grinding nosie is only noticeable while turning.

Age of tires has nothing to do with a broken belt. The belts break when you hit a crack/curb/sharp object too hard/fast. Something like a pothole on teh interstate will bust a belt in no time.

While you under there, replace the sway bar links. You are missing at least one nut.