Busted my left front wheel on a curb. Replaced it but not happy with the steering wheel being at 12:30 so I have decided to try straightening the steering wheel myself. Using string I calculate the driver side is 3/16" toe-out and the passenger side 1/4" toe-in. A little surprising since I only hit the driver side wheel...?

Assuming a steering wheel ratio of 16:1 and a comparable radius, the steering wheel "should be" cocked something like 4 inches (average(3/16", 1/4") *16 = 3.5") . However, it is only cocked about two inches, so I may be ASSuming too much.

I want both wheels at 1/8" toe-in so the driver needs 5/16" -in and the passenger needs 1/8" -out. I read that the adjusting sleeve turns right to tighten onto the outer rod. My plan is the adjust in a 2/1 ratio so underneath I'll give it 5/8ths of a turn to tighten on the driver side and 1/4 turn to loosen on the passenger side.

If the test drive shows the steering wheel is straight, call it good. What do you think?

 

I would think that if after hitting the curb, replacing the rim and then finding that the steering wheel was off, I'd instead want to do an extremely close check to the condition of my front end components. I can't imagine how the adjusters for the alignment (eccentric cams and tie-rod sleeves) would have shifted due to the impact instead of some component being damaged.

How fast were you when you hit the curb? Could the frame be bent?

 

I agree, those adjusting sleeves don't unscrew themselves, no matter what kind of curb got hit. I'll have a look when I get underneath, I hope to see a bent tie rod but I'm not sure I'd recognize one.
Even if I can't find the damaged part, getting the wheels pointed straight ahead should improve drivability and tire wear.

 

My concern would be that doing an alignment with bent or broken parts would only mask an underlying problem that at best would contribute to premature wear of other critical parts or worse, cause a catastrophic failure of some sort.

Some of the things that come to mind that could be damaged and cause a misalignment of a tire are:

• bent tie-rod
• ball-joints that are loose in their sockets
• ball joints at ends of center-links and tie-rods loose in their sockets
• idler arm bushing deformed
• idler arm to centerlink ball joint loose
• steering gear bushing deformed
• pitman arm to center-link ball joint loose
• deformed centerlink
• control arm bushing deformed
• wheel bearings deformed/loose

 

Good list! I'll try to check off items when I'm under there. I don't think a loose part like a ball joint or bushing is causing the steering wheel to point to 12:30, so my thinking is it's something deformed. I hope so, thousands of cars get alignments every day to compensate for just that thing.


What do you think about my 2/1 ratio for adjusting?

 

Hmm , I don't mean to come across wrong or harsh here. But you're attempting to do an alignment based off of what a string tells you and guesswork math?? Yet , you're not sure you could identify a bent tie-rod?

There is a reason shops have $20,000 alignment machines and technicians(usually trained) who know how to use them.

There is a certain responsibility to owning a vehicle, and one of those responsibilities is making sure that it is reasonably safe to drive.

If you are not sure you could identify a bent tie-rod , then who's to say that you could identify a busted control arm?

If that front end tears loose while you are on the highway and you cross into on coming traffic and kill someone , you are going to be thinking about that little piece of string for a long long time.

Think about spending that $60 to $80 to have it done right...

 

well said [email protected], .......I agree......

 

When you get under your front-end, take pictures of any components you are not sure are correct and post them here. I'm sure people will be glad to double check your inspection of the parts.

 

@puttster
Years ago I had a RWD ride and I couldn't resist drifting the snow in a narrow places. I've busted a rim or two on a curbs. Yes, it happen, that a steering wheel ends up 12:30 or 11:30 without any visible damages underneath. I can't recall if I went for geometry. Probably not if the tire wear was equal. Don't expect You will find anything under, neither it is something to be worried about.

@jone531
I agree with Your attitude. You can't expect 18yo ride to be in a perfect shape though, but if You find some serious deficiency - get it fixed.
Cheers, Mike

 

Cannot see anything bent but maybe you can. When I push/pull the tire at 9 and 3 it pushes the tie rods all the way across and affects the tire on the passenger side and the idler arm. Hard to say how much, maybe 1/4 "? The pittman is more stable.