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Gonna be replacing fuel pump, just looking for pointers

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  #11  
Old 06-14-2009, 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by W2JGA
Must be nice.
Yeah? Tell that to my lawn!

Anyway. I've read about the wiring harness. Is it really that bad of an issue a new one needs to be spliced in? What is it? The wires corroded? Or the plastic broke?

As far as the Fuel Pump relay. I have a couple spares pulled from some crashed blazers during a trip to pick a part. If it's bad I'll find out. If the others are worse I'll get a new one. The one I'm going to order is a Delphi. Has a wire harness with it (didn't think I'd need it) and the filler tube hose and another hose and the stainer.
 
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Old 06-14-2009, 09:08 AM
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biggest question is how hard is it to get to the fuel lines without breaking them while dropping the tank at the same time?
 
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Old 06-14-2009, 01:28 PM
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I don't know if a '95 has the quick disconnect fittings or not. My '92 had rusty old flare fittings, which twisted right off instead of unscrewing (my local car parts store had a kit to fix them), but my '99 had the quick disconnect fittings. I lowered my tank down with one of those Harbor Freight motorcycle jacks a little at a time, and reached in there and popped the two outer lines right off-the center line was a real bugger, though-I ended up taking sidecutters and cutting the old fuel pump where it connected, and then after the tank was out, I was able to get the center fitting out.
 
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Old 06-15-2009, 08:20 AM
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No such luck. The 95 has the screw-on fittings. no quick connects. I know what you mean, the 98 had the quick connects. Would have been nice. That is the part I'm dreading. The rest is straight forward. But the fuel filter came off fine so my other fittings should be OK (I HOPE)
 
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Old 06-15-2009, 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by cage47
biggest question is how hard is it to get to the fuel lines without breaking them while dropping the tank at the same time?
On most of the blazers you have pretty good access to the lines if you drop the spare tire first. Once you drop the tire it is pretty easy to disconnect the lines while the tank is still mounted.

If the tank is still mounted it is easier to remove the lines no matter the connector type because there is no stress on the connectors from everything being out of position.
 
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Old 06-15-2009, 09:27 PM
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ok Good. Thanks Awe. Things like that will help.
 
  #17  
Old 06-22-2009, 06:32 PM
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well dropped the tank today. had a bugger getting the fuel lines disconnected. ended up twisting off the fittings on the sending unit. and since no one has them alone i need to go to pic a part and cut them off one not too corroded and clamp them in. i already have the hoses in to put the fittings on. the fuel lines themselves are ok. Didn't have a problem getting the filler hoses off. Just getting to them was a bugger. Had to unbolt a holding bolt on the inside of the frame to get the tubes loose so I could get them off the tank and drop the tank. but putting back together should be a lot easier.

i also did a test and the pump is still working so it was just my strainer. gonna put the new one in and keep the old one as spare. the wiring is still all good too. just curious, the pump first engages then stops. is that normal? i'm thinking it is. waiting for the pump to get here tomorrow. So going first thing in the morning (avoid the nasty heat) and getting the fittings at pick a part. Might pull a spare fuel pump relay also. just to have a spare.
 
  #18  
Old 06-23-2009, 12:54 AM
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The pump should engage with the key forward. That is the pump building up pressure for the start. It should only last 2 seconds or so, then cutoff until you start the vehicle.
 
  #19  
Old 06-23-2009, 07:34 AM
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That's what I thought. That's what mine did. All looks good, just need to get the fittings. I've got enough hose that I can test it with the tank on the ground.

When I had it all out I plugged the pump back in and had the wife turn over the key. I could feel the pressure of the air from the outlet. So the pump itself is ok. Looks like it was just the strainer. My last question is how the heck do you clean out the tank. I can see a little bit of crap in the bottom. Mostly junk that came off the lip when I removed the sending unit.

Oh, also, for the 95 and newer. Is there an easier way to get the pump off the sending unit then bending down that bottom bracket? Should the pump slide up a little? I figure the strainer should have come off first but mine was stuck hard.

Any one need pictures of anything while I got it out?

Oh one other question. Looks like the idiot I bought it from ran over something. There's a noticeable dent in the front of my tank. Couldn't see it with the plastic guard in place. How can I get that out? The filler tube is in the back. And the vent at the front has some kind of plate inside so I can't get to the bottom. No holes but would like to get it back in shape.
 

Last edited by cage47; 06-23-2009 at 08:00 AM.
  #20  
Old 06-23-2009, 10:54 AM
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Well since I posted last I made it to pick a part and found a sending unit from a 1500 that had the same fittings already pulled. I hacked the fittings off. As a test I put it together. Put the old pump (sans strainer) back in. Dropped the whole sending unit back in (ring is not in yet) and tank on the ground thanks to the long hoses. Turned over the key. Pump primed. Turned it over. Truck fired right up. No cranking. Well one second, maybe less, just to get the pressure up from dry lines. But fired right over. And that is with only 1 gallon of gas in the tank. (basically what I drained out). Yesterday with the same amount, first thing in the morning it took 5 tries to get it to start. and then it ran at first like it was chocking. had to rev it to get the fuel flowing good. And without the strainer, it fired over and ran smooth. Turned it off and just waiting for the new pump to be delivered with the strainer. Gonna put the new one in and keep the old one as a spare. Can't wait to get this done and get the power back in my truck.
 


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