hard start/excessive crank
#1
hard start/excessive crank
lately ive been having issues with excessive crank times on my 95 blazer. it doesnt do it consistantly though as to whether the engine is hot or cold or how long its been sitting. half the time it fires right up, the other half it takes 5 or more seconds of cranking to fire. ive run the codes, i didnt come up with anything for crank or cam sensor, and the fuel pump is turning on with the key. could it possibly be the fuel spider going bad, or is it something else?
#3
I agree with the above post. Check pressure and insure it is not low. If it is, change the fuel filter and retest. I had the same problem as you are having, i also had gas mileage starting to fall off and i changed the spider to the new MFI and all is now good. Im not sure about the mileage becuase i just put it in two days ago, but it sure starts up nicely.
#4
95 slow to start intermittently
Several years ago I had a '95 with your symptoms. It was carbon in the EGR valve that prevented its closing fully. It's something of a pain to remove but cleaning it produced a good result, although temporary. So experience produced faster removal/installation. Eventually I put a piece of stainless screen over the connection with two gaskets and the Blazer started much more reliably
In a pinch (on the road, etc.) it started much quicker if the key was turned to start just briefly then off then another start attempt. This usually caused the Blazer to start.
That Blazer had 175,000 miles and blow-by likely produced the accumulation of carbon chunks.
Hope it's this simple.
In a pinch (on the road, etc.) it started much quicker if the key was turned to start just briefly then off then another start attempt. This usually caused the Blazer to start.
That Blazer had 175,000 miles and blow-by likely produced the accumulation of carbon chunks.
Hope it's this simple.
#5
I agree with the above post. Check pressure and insure it is not low. If it is, change the fuel filter and retest. I had the same problem as you are having, i also had gas mileage starting to fall off and i changed the spider to the new MFI and all is now good. Im not sure about the mileage becuase i just put it in two days ago, but it sure starts up nicely.
#6
thanks guys. i do have a code for the egr, i think it said low flow. it might be possible a larger chunk has gotten it to stick open. it does have a bit of an odd thump at idle, it sounds like a miss, but i know its not (new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coild, and no code). now, the egr valve is located where? im thinking its the cylinder shaped item behind the tensioner on the intake, next/below the throttle body?
and as far as fuel pressure bleeding off, i dont think that is the case. if i leave the key for 5 seconds before cranking, it makes no difference in crank time. and after sitting for the weekend, it usually fires right up.
and as far as fuel pressure bleeding off, i dont think that is the case. if i leave the key for 5 seconds before cranking, it makes no difference in crank time. and after sitting for the weekend, it usually fires right up.
#7
Do not rule out a fuel leak so quickly. Priming the system does not remove the excess fuel from the intake.
The EGR is the soda can sized thing below the throttle body. Sounds like you are in the proper area.
The EGR is the soda can sized thing below the throttle body. Sounds like you are in the proper area.
#8
alright, thanks. im gonna screw around with the egr valve tomarrow and see what i come up with. im pretty sure there is no fuel leaking into the intake, it would cause other issues that im rather aware of with the cpi fuel spider.
#9
well, the egr was completely blocked up. someone else had already been into it once before because it was double gasketed. however, when i removed it from the intake, a lot of a gas/oil mix dripped out. im hoping it will clear out once its been run, but im going to guess the fuel spider is probably going bad. i am familiar with them from school on how to replace them. how expensive is it to to replace the entire assembly, i havent been able to find any place that sells them other than a dealer.
#10
Look around here and on google and you will find the part numbers. I ordered mine from gmpartsdirect.com . There were as cheap as any and it was here in three days. It cost me 280 dollars for the kit, to the door. The kit included the spider assy, new gaskets, and bracket. As mentioned above, the 95 is different than the 96> trucks. Im not sure what the difference is, but i think it has to do with orings and a fuel line setup that is called a nut kit. Read thru this, it may help you.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/t559...er_how_to.html
http://www.automotiveforums.com/t559...er_how_to.html