Here we go:
2002 Chevy Blazer ZR2.

new within the last 6 months:
fuel pump
fuel regulator
battery
airfilter
fuel filter

new as of saturday:
spark plugs (a/c Delco,gapped to .060)

new as of today:
wires (duralast)
cap and rotor (both BWD)
195 degree thermostat

I know have read that pretty much A/C Delco is the way to go however, the only thing I could get in that brand was the plugs.

PROBLEM:

The truck is hard to start, actually the best way to get it started is to just hold the key and it will start after about 10-20 seconds, upon start-up the idle is horrible seems as if it wants to die. the idle is around 600 rpm and is quite rough. If i turn the truck of and try to restart it, it starts just like normal, only the idle seems a bit rough. the truck seems to have little power. Especially with the A/C on, when the A/C is on the truck seems to linger right at the 210 mark, if sitting for awhile the temp will rise.

I went today to have the SES light checked and it pulled up two codes, 0300 some thing "cylinder misfire" so at that point i picked up the wires, cap, and rotor, installed them, and no change.

oh yeah and i have a mysterious vacuum line right next to the brake master cylinder the seems to have broke of from somewhere, but I was unable to find the location.

I am about completely frustrated with the truck, I really hope some one can give me some insight.

Joel

 

the P0300 is the multiple cylinder misfire code.. theres a big vacuum line that goes to the brake booster and small one that goes to the back of the intake and another to the "ball" mounted on the hood for the cruise if you have it.. see if those are unhooked..Those BWD caps are no good i've gone through 3 in a week ..in a dark area or at night start it up and see if you have spark jumping around...

 

I did not have a problem with bwd cap I installed 2 years ago, but napa sells them with brass inserts thats what you want. Try spraying WD-40 on your coil/control module and all over the top of your dist. cap. also, did you use dielectric grease when installing plug wires ? Could also be the IAC (idle air controller) its in the throttle body.
try those things post back.

Oh yeah, that vacuum line, if it seems to just end under the ABS controller near the fender, I think that goes to a vacuum can - in the fender. needs to be plugged in or plugged up.

 

Check your clutch fan for the temp
issue make sure it's good, and the radiator cap too my truck runs just a bit above 195 with the ac on and idling

 

That sounds like it could be the culprit, I will have to do some more checking in the fenderwell I guess to see if I can find the fitting, in the meantime I didn cap it off though. Mainly because it didn't change the idle or anything when I plugged it with my finger.



I thought about the clutch fan, but it seems to spin up good when I am driving, and when I shut the engine down, and try to spin it I can feel that it seems to have engaged.




Anyone else have some insight for me,

 

I'm not an expert, but I'll share my thoughts.

I'd work on the vacuum line first.

After it starts, what color smoke are you seeing (should see something due to flooding, but apart from that)? Do the RPM's linger at 600 or do they rise after it has warmed up? You said that it idles rough. Does it lope or come close to stalling?

I had a similar problem with my Trooper a while back (GM 2.8 v6,minus the codes). I kept checking the plugs at different times (after startups, after a crank or two, after a few days of sitting, etc...). I changed everything. Cap, rotar, plugs, wires, ignition coil, etc... Eventually I found out that #3 was getting oil fouled.

 

I believe I have the same problem.
98 Blazer 4x2
4.3L Vortec V6

Hard to start (hold key on for 10-20 seconds with foot on pedal)
rough idle (died twice, rough idle anytime)
7-9 MPG
OBD II P0300

replacements
cap, plugs, wires, pcv, vacuum hoses, fuel filter, air filter, ignition coil, control module.

cleaned
IAC, EGR, injectors, throttle valve, flushed oil, flushed trans fluid (half at a time 6 month spread), added fuel injection cleaner to a tank of gas, added sea foam

Readings
Fuel pressure at prime 60 psi
Fuel pressure at idle 55 psi
Fuel pressure when off - decreases over the span of 2 minutes to 30 psi then gradual from there
Vacuum at startup 17"
Vacuum at idle in park 15"
Vacuum at idle in drive 14" decreasing in 10 seconds to 12" (start of rough idling)

 

(Fuel pressure when off - decreases over the span of 2 minutes to 30 psi then gradual from there)-> bad FPR or leak somewhere in upper plenum/fuel system

 

Would a FPR be causing all these problems though?

Joel