heat blend actuator help
#1
Beginning Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 23

I have a 98 blazer, and I tracked my heating problem to a busted gear in the actuator that controls the temperator door. I have the computer controlled system, which (figures) has an actuator that costs about $100 more than the regular one.
here is my question. Are they pretty much the same internally besides the circuits?
Is it possible to purchase the cheaper actuator, rob the gear out of it, and get my old one functioning again? it seems like it wants to work aside from the broken gear making it slip.
Thanks in advance.
Jeff
here is my question. Are they pretty much the same internally besides the circuits?
Is it possible to purchase the cheaper actuator, rob the gear out of it, and get my old one functioning again? it seems like it wants to work aside from the broken gear making it slip.
Thanks in advance.
Jeff
#2
I do not believe that anyone has ever tried to use the gear from the cheaper actuator in the one for the automatic climate control. It is not impossible that they use the same gears. I would want to start with a junkyard actuator first though instead of possibly wasting the money on a new actuator.
I'll have to keep an eye out the next time I am at the junkyard to see if I can pull an actuator from each. I wanted to look into the possibility of making rings to reinforce the gears before or after they break.
I'll have to keep an eye out the next time I am at the junkyard to see if I can pull an actuator from each. I wanted to look into the possibility of making rings to reinforce the gears before or after they break.
#3
Beginning Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 23

Ok, your ring Idea got my wheels turning. Here is where I'm at right now, I will keep you updated and let you know if it works.
1.got a hose clamp, crazy glued the gear back together. hose clamp held it while drying.
2. got some JB weld, and basically filled in the entire groove in the TOP of the gear, hopefully making the ring you talked about, and reinforcing the broken gear.
I am going to let the JB weld dry overnight before I try to press the metal sleeve back in.
You can't put anything in the groove on the BOTTOM of the gear, it needs to ride on the plastic actuator housing.
Here is where it gets sketchy for me, maybe someone can help. There is a little BLUE gear inside that is connected to something electronic, which I am assuiming is a position sensor. This thing has no stops (can spin around 360 degrees) Does anyone know if this needs to be in a certain position when everything is put back together?
Or does this thing "learn" where it is or needs to be from the stops on the metal sleeve that turns the blend door?
Thanks, Jeff
1.got a hose clamp, crazy glued the gear back together. hose clamp held it while drying.
2. got some JB weld, and basically filled in the entire groove in the TOP of the gear, hopefully making the ring you talked about, and reinforcing the broken gear.
I am going to let the JB weld dry overnight before I try to press the metal sleeve back in.
You can't put anything in the groove on the BOTTOM of the gear, it needs to ride on the plastic actuator housing.
Here is where it gets sketchy for me, maybe someone can help. There is a little BLUE gear inside that is connected to something electronic, which I am assuiming is a position sensor. This thing has no stops (can spin around 360 degrees) Does anyone know if this needs to be in a certain position when everything is put back together?
Or does this thing "learn" where it is or needs to be from the stops on the metal sleeve that turns the blend door?
Thanks, Jeff
#4
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 2

I am going through the same issue with my 98. I epoxied my gear together in that top groove. The blue gear is attached to a potentiometer. From what I have been able to find out it doesn't matter the location of where that gear is when you put it back together. Mine seems to relearn where it is provided you pull the radio fuse out for 10 seconds and let the motor reset. I believe everytime you start your vehicle up the motor runs one direction and then the other to know where the stops are on the flapper motor. Mine seems to be doing that now but it wont move with my control **** on the dash. I am not sure what to do now!
As far swapping gears from another module, I ordered both replacement control modules from Oreily's and they are differen't than the factory ones. I took them apart and the gears are differen't and instead of the potentiameter doing the positioning, there is a wiper on one of the gears and that tracks along a copper film on the board. Anyways I dont think you will have any luck with purchasing the cheaper module and swapping gears. I would epoxy the gear or JB weld it together and put the cracked tooth away from the rest of the gears so it wont even be used.
Steve
As far swapping gears from another module, I ordered both replacement control modules from Oreily's and they are differen't than the factory ones. I took them apart and the gears are differen't and instead of the potentiameter doing the positioning, there is a wiper on one of the gears and that tracks along a copper film on the board. Anyways I dont think you will have any luck with purchasing the cheaper module and swapping gears. I would epoxy the gear or JB weld it together and put the cracked tooth away from the rest of the gears so it wont even be used.
Steve
#5
I spent over an hour last night trying to get (1) screw out of the actuator!
I went in via the glovebox access hole. I used a 1/4" 7/32 socket/rachet as well.
My hands are not that big and I had a helluva time getting the socket to stay on and get it turned!
After an hour of banging my fingers I got (1) screw up about 1/64" !!
So how does one get this thing out ????
BTW, I paid $49 for a brand new actuator from www.RockAuto.com
I went in via the glovebox access hole. I used a 1/4" 7/32 socket/rachet as well.
My hands are not that big and I had a helluva time getting the socket to stay on and get it turned!
After an hour of banging my fingers I got (1) screw up about 1/64" !!
So how does one get this thing out ????
BTW, I paid $49 for a brand new actuator from www.RockAuto.com
#6
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 2

You have to move the vacuum pod out of the way first. Pust up on it (it takes a bit of force) and maneuver it towards you and down out of the way. That frees up all the space you need. I have a 1/4" ratchet with a flex head on it. IF you dont have a flexhead ratchet it will be alot tougher as well.
#7
The FLEX-head ratchet is an absolute MUST HAVE for this job.
BTW, I fixed my heater problem as well. Turns out the heater core was simply clogged up. I flushed it out and now I have all the heat I need!
#8
Beginning Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 23

the jb weld didn't work, the gear cracked again when I pressed it on to the metal part.
I am going to try something else.
as far as getting the actuator out, I found a great tool at a car swap meet. What it is is a 1/4 ratchet with no handle at all, it just has a round knurled ring around it to turn it with. It cost me a whole $4.00 from one of those tool vendors with all the yellow bins of tools on the table.
I am going to try something else.
as far as getting the actuator out, I found a great tool at a car swap meet. What it is is a 1/4 ratchet with no handle at all, it just has a round knurled ring around it to turn it with. It cost me a whole $4.00 from one of those tool vendors with all the yellow bins of tools on the table.
#9
Beginning Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 12

I had to replace one of these in my mom's bravada last week. On the replacement part (cardone I think) the gear and the 'metal part' are one piece - but they're plastic. Hopefully it will be more durable than the piece I took out.
#10
Beginning Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: durty south
Posts: 19

I have apparently bought a straight up turd! I have owned this 98 Blazer LT for exactly 2 weeks and 1 day. I have already had to replace the radiator, & the transmission. Now I will have to replace EVERY component of the climate control system (well almost every part). Needs a new blower motor, new a/c compressor, and evidently a new blend door actuator. I have the famous cracked gear issue and I am wondering if anyone has figured out a better solution other then buying a new $100 actuator? IMO it is pretty pathetic that a vehicle that has been VERY gently used, garage kept, with only 113,000 miles on it has this many problems. I mean REALLY, $100 for a POS actuator that had Chevy actually used QUALITY components would not need replaced in the first place.






