Well... Good news & bad news so far...

I pulled the dash, steering column, etc, etc.. (yes - I took pics).. and got the heater core replaced...

However.. I've had problems for the last couple of years in which my switch for my hazard lights broke, and won't hold in place very well.... so when I pulled the steering column to replace the core... something must've fallen out of the (broken) switch assembly for the hazard lights.. because it now blinks constantly...

So.. that said... I'm needing to find a new switch for the hazard lights. If anyone on list has ever opened up the steering cover, you'll know that the hazard switch has about a million* wires connected to it.

* (slight exageration - probably closer to 15-20 wires)

So... I was wondering.. pretty please... if anyone on list has a steering colums that they'd be willing to give up the switch from.. please let me know... OTherwise, I'll probably wind up buying the whole friggin innerds of the wiper control/cruise control/hazard switch assembly - as it seems that's how chevy generally sells parts...

So for now - the Blazer's out of commission until I can get the switch replaced.

Rex S.

 

Here's a link to a pic gallery I just put together for the heater core replacement process. It took about 3 hours to remove everything to the point of being able to open up the heater core housing - and about the same for putting everything back together.

http://www.treasureboards.com/blazer/core.html

Rex S.

 

Glad you got it apart and back together. Don't know what to tell you about the 4way switch... I'd just grab one from a junk yard. Shouldn't cost you more than $5 and the pick-n-pull yard near me has a return policy were if it doesn't work, you get your full money back so long as you pulled it.

 

Yep - I suppose I'll mount up on the bike and hit several of the Dallas area pick-n-pull places. Thanks!

 

Just an update.. I found an aftermarket replacement turn signal/wiper/hazard switch/cruise controller to go inside the steering column.. found on Ebay from an auto dealer in Lafayette La. Searched online, and found a general range of about $130-$140 (USD) for the controls... so I *should* be able to get my Blazer back on teh road in a few days after the parts arrive.. I hope I *NEVER* have to take the dash apart again for a heater core replacement.... PITA!

Rex S.

 

HEy all,

On my yearly trek to northern Virginia from Dallas last week.. my heater core blew AGAIN.. just after passing through the mountains approaching Knoxville, Tn. I stopped and was able to bypass the heater core (again) with a 5/8 to 3/4 bypass valve I made from parts at Lowes... but more importantly, I think I figured out WHY I've had so many heater core issues.

In my case, IIRC, the cores are generally blowing after a long drive that's taxing on the engine... (i.e. mountain driving, Texas Summer Heat, etc.) I pulled into an O'riley's Auto parts in Bristol, Va to see if they had yet another heater core in stock for me (and yes, they did) - and I mentioned to the manager that I'd been through SEVERAL ( 4) heater cores in the last 2-3 years. First thing he asked is "Have you changed your radiator cap?" My jaw dropped as I quickly realized what's been happening...

My radiator cap had the mechanical pressure overflow for the coolant to flow to the overflow tank... Well, I think the nechanism was not allowing the overflow to vent to that tank.. so as coolant temp increased in the radiator circuit, it expanded, and the weak point happened to be the heater core.. which has been springing leaks on me.

I checked the level of fluid in the overflow, and it wasn't necessarily high after a hard drive... so I changed the radiator cap.. and NOW I'm getting the proper overflow into the overflow tank. I hope my problems are solved, now with my heater cores... Lesson learned: When changing the coolant fluid or other coolant circuit items, check / change that radiator cap... it's cheap insurance for proper overflow. The heater core blowing was a symtom of another (cheaper to fix) problem.

I'll be pulling the dash again this weekend, now that I'm back to Dallas from Virginia...

Rex S.

 

Hopefully you weren't usin that nasty dexcool coolant. You'll be havin corroded parts everywhere

 

What do you base this statement off of?

It has been proven that Dexcools problems are not related to the coolant itself, but to the lack of routine cooling system maintenance. IE ensuring that the radiator and overflow tank are at their proper levels and changing the fluid EVERY 5 years (or sooner). Just because it says it has a 5yr life doesn't mean it's maintenance free for 5 years. Every vehicle requires maintenance to it's systems. Air in the cooling system is what causes the components to rust/corrode/oxidize. If the system were maintained at proper levels, there would be no air, and as such, no corrosion.

A monthly check of tire pressure, engine oil, transmission fluid, and radiator fluid (both radiator & overflow) should be routine for everyone. But people don't care anymore. It's their fault, not the car or the fluid used.

 

yes, most dexcool problems are due to lack of maintenance, but you open lines, you put air in the system, and dexcool is corrosive in itself. That's all I'm saying. Even the manuals all say not to get dexcool on you, it will eat holes in things.

 

That's kinda funny... Dexcool is corrosive... I find that funny because I have had it up my arms and on my clothes, shop floor, etc. No problems. Actually, Dexcool is MUCH more environmentallly friendly than the green stuff. That is what it was designed for. But oh well. Don't listen to me. What do I know...

Oh and I have yet to read a manual that says NOT to use dexcool. My Haynes states if equiped with Dexcool, ONLY USE DEXCOOL!