HELP with a 1998 Blazer
#1
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 6

I have had the worst luck with this truck! I have replaced the Plugs, Wires, Rotor, Cap, Muffler, the 3 Oxygen Sensors, the Fuel Pressure thing and the Crank sensor, brand new battery, and it STILL WILL NOT START, (fuel pump and filter are fine and they have tried a new computer). It wants to start or at least it acts like it but it just wont kick over, or I should say it starts when it wants too. There are days where it will start and run for maybe a couple days and be fine and then nothing. PLease is there anyone that has a suggestion or a tip that might help. They are talking about doing the ignition switch next, another 80$ part. I just can't keep putting money into this.
#4
Welcome from Alberta.
Have you done a fuel pressure leak down test? These trucks are very sensitive to proper fuel pressure. If you're 100% certain that your fuel system passes the leak down test and holds proper fuel pressure at all steps then the iginition switch would be my next step given everything else you've done on it. Good luck!
Have you done a fuel pressure leak down test? These trucks are very sensitive to proper fuel pressure. If you're 100% certain that your fuel system passes the leak down test and holds proper fuel pressure at all steps then the iginition switch would be my next step given everything else you've done on it. Good luck!
#5
As long as they keep guessing, they'll eventually fix it.... hopefully before they get to the dreaded muffler bearing. They're expensive and hard to find
If you want to diagnose it properly, and find out what the problem really is, without buying the entire parts store in the process, we can help. It will involve going back to the drawing board.
As mentioned, first step, check fuel pressure and leakdown. Connect a fuel pressure tester to the service port near the distributor. Cycle the ignition ON and OFF a few times to prime the system, then turn the ignition OFF.
In the underhood fuse panel there is a vacant terminal for activating the fuel pump:

Connect one end of a fused jumper wire to battery positive. Touch the other end to the pump prime terminal. Fuel pressure should immediately indicate 60psi to 66psi when the pump is activated. Repeat this several times making sure pressure immediately indicates proper pressure. Remove the jumper wire, fuel pressure should drop slightly and hold. Activate and deactivate the pump several times making sure pressure does not drop off below 55psi immediately. When the jumper is removed for the last time, pressure must remain above 55psi for at least 10 minutes. The reason for activating & deactivating several times is to try and duplicate the failure you're experiencing. Post your results.
If you want to diagnose it properly, and find out what the problem really is, without buying the entire parts store in the process, we can help. It will involve going back to the drawing board.As mentioned, first step, check fuel pressure and leakdown. Connect a fuel pressure tester to the service port near the distributor. Cycle the ignition ON and OFF a few times to prime the system, then turn the ignition OFF.
In the underhood fuse panel there is a vacant terminal for activating the fuel pump:

Connect one end of a fused jumper wire to battery positive. Touch the other end to the pump prime terminal. Fuel pressure should immediately indicate 60psi to 66psi when the pump is activated. Repeat this several times making sure pressure immediately indicates proper pressure. Remove the jumper wire, fuel pressure should drop slightly and hold. Activate and deactivate the pump several times making sure pressure does not drop off below 55psi immediately. When the jumper is removed for the last time, pressure must remain above 55psi for at least 10 minutes. The reason for activating & deactivating several times is to try and duplicate the failure you're experiencing. Post your results.
Last edited by Captain Hook; 01-14-2013 at 09:45 PM.
#6
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 6

They are got it to fire yesterday, several times. They had already checked the fuel pressure and that was fine, not to mention you can hear the fuel pump engage. They are going to put in the ignition switch this afternoon. I really hope it works! Thanks everyone for your help and responses
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#8
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 6

Well, I guess they decided to wait on the ignition switch. Another guy tested the fuel pressure and its only reading out at 40psi. So they are going to replace the fuel pump instead. I really hope this does it, thanks again for the help.
#9
"You really hope this does it." The truth is, apparently the shop really hopes too. If they diagnosed it correctly, hope would not be a factor. At 40psi, regulated pressure is out of specifications. Something is wrong in the fuel delivery system. It does not identify what the cause is, more testing is necessary to pinpoint the problem. Without that, hope is all you've got
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 975

Why take it to a shop that doesn't know how to diagnose problems? If I'm going to pay to have something fixed I want an estimate to fix it. To do that a proper diagnose is required. If my shop ever called me & told me we THINK this is it, I would be finding another shop quickly. I can guess for free. Captain Hook is right. He has helped many of us find the real problem & fix it.




