Hello all

Could make a long story on all that led up to this, but in trying to replace the common leaking vacuum actuator in my Zr2's 4wd transfer case, I ended up stripping the hole.

Used to be a auto mechanic a long time ago, but it's been a few years as I transferred over to the HVAC trade.

So was just wondering if there is any magic fix for this (?) Do they make something I can just maybe put on the threads of the sensor, stick in the hole, an essentially make new threads with?

Just one idea...am open to any.

Thanks for any help.

 

I would be tempted to try some epoxy like JB weld but one of the putty types
Dont want any going inside

 

when I built my toy it was stripped in the donor Jimmy by the PO - you might try removing the cover on the transfer case and heil coil it or replace that half of the case - i didn't bother i replaced the transfer case - used t case was $200.00 less headache and I know the switch is tight and know it will stay that way - Sorry I can't be more help

 

Yeah I was thinking along those line, or more actually about the Loctite Form-A-Thread product:
...read mixed reviews there, as well as other places too.

Spent the day taking out the transfer case, kinda all depressing.

Bought this truck new back in 2002. Only has 50K on it an I have always taken really good care of it, an its never had any major issues. So kinda a milestone to have this happen.

Btw, I have checked it out very well an found that the A/C Delco actuator I got is for sure just a hair smaller then the orginal part.

Anyway, back to the topic.

So now that it is out am thinking of trying that stuff as it has a release agent and if it works all as is said, it might work out.

After that I guess its a helicoil try

 

Yeah, am hopefully picking up a used case for about that much on Monday, till I can figure out what to do.

Really want to fix mine though to keep it 100% original + as mentioned above, only has 50K on it.

Was told the one I'm getting is 125K.

Hope it holds till I fix the original.

 

I would just helicoil it! They are just as strong as it being drilled and tapped.......provided they are done right!!! this way u can save the money on the extra transfer case......

 

Yeah, am really on the fence about doing one or the other.

For sure the helicoil fix is a much better idea, but a few things for that are one...I don't know what size this part/hole is. Don't even know for sure if its metric or standard. Am planning to take a trip to the hardware store today to hopefully match up a identifiable nut or something else to find out.

But then even if I do figure that out, have to drill an tap this hole, which means probably having to do this with the case upside down and from below for both things so I don't get the shavings inside the case.

As well, there is the cam this actuator hits which is just below the hole.

Guess the other way to avoid all that is to take apart the case, but that isn't a simple thing, think I might even need some special tools for that.

As well this just increases the risk I damage something else, or don't put something back together right. Plus there is all the gaskets I will need to get and hopefully get the right ones.

So while I would much rather do the helicoil option, it gets complicated.

 

load tap or drill with heavy grease and go super slow
cuttings will stick in grease

threads should be NPT if it is going into fluid and sealing on the threads
That may be an issue with a helicoil , you would likely need to put liquid pipe sealer on the insert as well

 

Yeah, that was my plan. One part was to turn it upside down as much as I could, two was to grease up the drill & tap as much as possible. Was even wondering with as much stock as I took out from the stripping, if even I might get away with just the tap. Might be tight but I think the helicoil kits made for one size have a special tap. So if I even dull a good amount in the end it doing this, I could care less.

 

Hello all

Hope it isn't minded, but I thought I would update (an kinda get a cheap bump) on how things are going, with as well that it might just help someone else too.

So I went to the hardware store and its kind of a toss up, but appears the part/hole is either a 5/8-18, or 16M-1.50.

All in all the 16M fits just a tad snugger, so am guessing it's a 16MM hole, and 1.50 over 2.0 means its considered a fine thread.

Also btw, found that my store had some of the Permatex brand thread maker stuff, so I bought that, an have given it a test of just mixing it, and stuff seems pretty strong.

One other thing I just happen to notice too, is that if you look at the hole, it actually isn't just pure flat right at the hole part. There actually is a bit of a small inside taper, and then the actuator has that rubber O ring. An all in all, I think its pretty critical how far down it sits.

Basically I really don't know one way or another, but in reading about this part, I have read stories where the piston has gotten stuck half way, or in some other way doesn't work right say from a vacuum leak right at the hose connection, where the result is it only partially tries to engage the 4WD, all while your driving. An this can result in some grinding gears.

So given this, I really wonder about the helicoil or any kind of repair of this type as if I do this, natively the hole I will drill will take out this taper, and then the part is not going to sit down as far as it did before. Guess I could try to remake the taper, but now we are talking some pretty tricky stuff for everything to work just right.

All in all I am thinking the bottom of the part probably sits just about if not right on the case, but am saying this taper is so the o-ring can be a part of a proper seal while that all still happens. So is kinda another bad thing that if it doesn't have this, I wouldn't be surprised if it didn't leak past that o-ring. An trying to seal this via just the threads is not a great idea as it is not a tapered thread type make up connection.

As well I keep looking at the cam that is under the hole an it just looks more an more by how it is, that there is just no way I can drill an tap this hole bigger and not strike that. Basically not only is it down there (an is hard to explain in type) but part of it actually comes up just to the side of the hole where if I tried to make it bigger using a drill, its defiantly going to hit it. So for sure I would have to disassemble the thing if I even wanted to helicoil it. Which as mentioned, is just another can of worms.

Anyway, know I'm going on here a bit, but it just keeps seeming more a more like the best "chance" of a proper installed repair with the least chance of something else going wrong is going to be the epoxy stuff, although I am not going to say it's the strongest.