Help with starting dilemma.
#1
Help with starting dilemma.
Hi Guys. I have an inquiry and was hoping someone here could possibly help out.
Scenario: Get in. Put the key in. Turn over. Starts right up.
Go to work. Awesome.
Leave work. Put the key in. Turn. nothing. No sound from the starter at all. All of the lights are on and the Battery is at around 12. After turning the key (about 50 times) it will start up. Ive had the battery, starter and alternator checked and was told that the starter wasnt reading "perfectly", but seemed fine.
Any Ideas? Thank you.
Scenario: Get in. Put the key in. Turn over. Starts right up.
Go to work. Awesome.
Leave work. Put the key in. Turn. nothing. No sound from the starter at all. All of the lights are on and the Battery is at around 12. After turning the key (about 50 times) it will start up. Ive had the battery, starter and alternator checked and was told that the starter wasnt reading "perfectly", but seemed fine.
Any Ideas? Thank you.
#2
I had a 90 Prism that acted like that. I replaced the starter and was good to go. I'd check for loose wires first though too. Now that I think about it, I had a 64 TR4 that acted like that as well. I was checking things out with a multi meter and about started it going from the battery to the starter with the meter...
Soooooo, check your connections. Can also try whacking the starter with a hammer next time it won't start too.
There's my 2 cents without opening my FSM
Soooooo, check your connections. Can also try whacking the starter with a hammer next time it won't start too.
There's my 2 cents without opening my FSM
#5
Wiring schematics are different, so we need to know the transmission too. Neutral safety switch, or a clutch switch, makes a big difference in wiring
Intermittent electrical issues can be difficult to locate. First things to check are the battery cable connections. Both ends of both cables. Voltage Drop Testing should find it, if that's the problem.
Intermittent electrical issues can be difficult to locate. First things to check are the battery cable connections. Both ends of both cables. Voltage Drop Testing should find it, if that's the problem.
#6
Wiring schematics are different, so we need to know the transmission too. Neutral safety switch, or a clutch switch, makes a big difference in wiring
Intermittent electrical issues can be difficult to locate. First things to check are the battery cable connections. Both ends of both cables. Voltage Drop Testing should find it, if that's the problem.
Intermittent electrical issues can be difficult to locate. First things to check are the battery cable connections. Both ends of both cables. Voltage Drop Testing should find it, if that's the problem.
#8
I will almost put a bet on your starter has a dead spot in the winding's and by activating the key it's activating the solenoid slowly bumping the starter past the dead spot to a point that makes contact with good winding's - once there the starter will spin over the dead spot starting the vehicle
edit - also a badly worn starter brush and or a weak brush hold down spring can do the same thing by not making contact - all works out the same tho either a starter rebuild or replacement
edit - also a badly worn starter brush and or a weak brush hold down spring can do the same thing by not making contact - all works out the same tho either a starter rebuild or replacement
Last edited by odat; 02-18-2016 at 04:18 PM.
#9
Before replacing anything, it might be worthwhile to remove the starter relay from the underhood fuse panel and jumper the solenoid terminal to battery positive. If you can not duplicate the problem, the purple wire, solenoid, starter, and the other wiring associated with the starter and solenoid, are not the problem.
With the relay removed, there are 4 terminals in the fuse panel: One should show battery voltage at all times. One should show battery voltage when the ignition is in the START position only. One should show less than 5 ohms resistance to ground at all times. The last one goes directly to the starter solenoid. That's the terminal you need to apply battery voltage to for testing. Each time you apply voltage, the starter must engage. Post your results, they will tell us where to look for the problem.
With the relay removed, there are 4 terminals in the fuse panel: One should show battery voltage at all times. One should show battery voltage when the ignition is in the START position only. One should show less than 5 ohms resistance to ground at all times. The last one goes directly to the starter solenoid. That's the terminal you need to apply battery voltage to for testing. Each time you apply voltage, the starter must engage. Post your results, they will tell us where to look for the problem.
#10
Sorry Captain I didn't mean to imply just to replace the starter right off - I also should have added testing - It was just a fleeting thot - Guess my fingers on the keys were working faster than my brains lol