having a few issues with the 2000 Jimmy I have a O2 code and a lean code, Also the thing Eats gas! I filled up the tank ant got about 100 miles out of a full tank I was like what the HELL! there is no way! I plan to take the Upper intake off and take a look see at the regulator for leaks and do the LIM because I am there so why not... So any suggestions? It Drives fine sometimes and like poo others!

Okay so today I took off the upper intake and didnt see any washout on ether side of the intake.

Here are my codes

P0174 Fuel Trim System Lean Bank 2

P1153 HO2S Insufficient Switching Bank 2 Sensor 1

Also I took a look at the o2 that threw the code (bs-s1) and found the numbers to be around 243- 200. But the rest where jumping from 800- 200 and all over the place!

So could it be that Bank 2 sensor 1 is telling the motor that it is lean when it is not and having the fuel just DUMP into the motor?

 

Before you tear anything open, test the fuel pressure & leak down rate as detailed in the Tech Article.

Also, post the actual OBD2 codes (Pxxxx) and see if they are listed in the OBD2 DTC section.

 

Since you're new here and it's not too clear if you been lurking..here's the first rule:

- What Kyle Sez! If he's WRONG, you didnt state the problem clearly enough.
Never give the interpretation of the code.. give us the CODE! If AZ guy doesnt give you the code to write down, demand it.
PS: That means ALL the codes, whether or not the 'expert at connecting and reading out' the OBDII codes thinks it's important.

The second rule:
- Always at least have a test light, AND a DVM and access to a decent fuel pressure gauge.

access to A full feature scan tool doesnt hurt. Meaning one that will give real-time readings.

In your case it would help a LOT if someone got real time readouts on the O2 and both short and long term fuel trims.

Read this thread and watch that video.

Occasionally, just as failing leakdown doesnt mean a bad FPR, a bad FPR wont always show on a static leakdown. That's more common on 40 lb systems than on a W series.. where a diaphragm crack is enlarged by pressure.. but still can happen.

 

For some reason when I read that I thought of the new WoW commercial on TV with Chuck Norris. LMAO! I fess up when I'm wrong.

 

And that's kinda how I meant it. Not saying you're always right, either. I just dont jump on that same's I dont kick Ol' Chuck in the junk.
- why I said watch that video. a bad FPR that passed leakdown. Goes to show how important leakdown test is, strangely enough - meaning the exception that proves the rule. Doesnt matter it's a different injection series.

Bottom line is: Present all the history, evidence and symptoms and the patient WILL get cured.

 

I know I'm not a pro or anything, but check the MAP sensor..I can't remember exactly what codes I was getting, but it involved bad o2 sensors. My mileage was terrible, it didn't want to take off (bogging), and eventually it started to blow the ECM-I fuse. The reason I say this is it's a simple $45 fix that may save you a lot of time and money. If that's not the problem, then just ignore what I said and listen to these guys! They really know their stuff!

 

First post updated!

Bank 2 sensor one, Is it on the passenger side on the manifold?

 

It sound very similar to how mine was acting before I sold it. If you try the aforementioned tests to no avail, test you exhaust pressure before the catalytic converter. Should be less than 1 PSI. I had almost 30 PSI. Cut it off and it ran 1000x better.

And just FYI, the y-pipe that the cat is on is about $600 so be careful if you do go this route.

 

Yes. It will be the one on the passenger side just before the 'y' in the y-pipe. Before replacing the sensor, swap it with the B1S1 sensor (driver side between the exhaust manifold and the 'y' in the y-pipe) to see if the codes change to reflect the new sensor position.

If you do end up replacing the sensor, get an AC Delco or NGK sensor! Other aftermarket sensors do not have the same level of activity straight out of the box and activity directly relates to the life expectancy of the sensor.

 

I have a bosh, Its a good name brand right?