How difficult to replace A/C CONDENSER?
#1
How difficult to replace A/C CONDENSER?
The girlfriend has a 1998 Blazer S10 SUV with a compressor that seized up. I'm going to assume that when it seized up that metal debris ended up in the condenser and therefore it would be a good idea to replace it. I understand that with R134A systems the cooling passages running through the condenser are so small that doing a flush of it is a waste of time since the cleaning agent plus the metallic debris cannot be flushed through it. This means you have to install a new condenser.
I replaced her radiator about a year ago but didn't pay much attention to the condenser at the time so I don't recall how difficult it is to replace the condenser. Does anyone know if you have to remove the radiator first (meaning you also have to drain it) to get to the condenser? ... or can you just loosen the radiator, remove the upper hose and move the radiator out of the way by pushing it to the rear?
Also, are there any other issues that I'll run into? ... is this job a PITA or not?
I replaced her radiator about a year ago but didn't pay much attention to the condenser at the time so I don't recall how difficult it is to replace the condenser. Does anyone know if you have to remove the radiator first (meaning you also have to drain it) to get to the condenser? ... or can you just loosen the radiator, remove the upper hose and move the radiator out of the way by pushing it to the rear?
Also, are there any other issues that I'll run into? ... is this job a PITA or not?
#2
I've never done it (well without removing pretty much the entire front end), but the service manual says to remove the radiator in order to remove the condenser.
Would one want to replace the evaporator as well for fear of debris? Or can one flush out the evaporator better than the condenser?
Would one want to replace the evaporator as well for fear of debris? Or can one flush out the evaporator better than the condenser?
#3
I'm not sure about the evaporator as I've only read that the condenser is the issue. One might assume that if "they" mentioned the condenser and not the evaporator while performing a flush that the evaporator can be cleaned this way. I don't know but maybe the passages are much larger in the evaporator. I don't want to run up the girlfriend's repair bill and certainly wish someone could convince me that flushing the condenser is perfectly fine as I really don't want to make work for myself but if that means doing it right then I'll change it out.
Does anyone know how to determine IF metallic debris is in the system? I'm not an expert and don't know what happens when the compressor seizes ... does it necessarily mean debris crap ends up throughout the system? Appreciate any guidance anyone has. Thanks!
Does anyone know how to determine IF metallic debris is in the system? I'm not an expert and don't know what happens when the compressor seizes ... does it necessarily mean debris crap ends up throughout the system? Appreciate any guidance anyone has. Thanks!
#4
The girlfriend has a 1998 Blazer S10 SUV with a compressor that seized up. I'm going to assume that when it seized up that metal debris ended up in the condenser and therefore it would be a good idea to replace it. I understand that with R134A systems the cooling passages running through the condenser are so small that doing a flush of it is a waste of time since the cleaning agent plus the metallic debris cannot be flushed through it. This means you have to install a new condenser.
I replaced her radiator about a year ago but didn't pay much attention to the condenser at the time so I don't recall how difficult it is to replace the condenser. Does anyone know if you have to remove the radiator first (meaning you also have to drain it) to get to the condenser? ... or can you just loosen the radiator, remove the upper hose and move the radiator out of the way by pushing it to the rear?
Also, are there any other issues that I'll run into? ... is this job a PITA or not?
I replaced her radiator about a year ago but didn't pay much attention to the condenser at the time so I don't recall how difficult it is to replace the condenser. Does anyone know if you have to remove the radiator first (meaning you also have to drain it) to get to the condenser? ... or can you just loosen the radiator, remove the upper hose and move the radiator out of the way by pushing it to the rear?
Also, are there any other issues that I'll run into? ... is this job a PITA or not?
#5
Actually, the A/C system is not the original ... it was replaced completely under a 100K mile warranty she had. Anyhow, I don't think anyone is complaining. Just looking for info on the condenser as asked. I thought the whole point of this forum is fixing it yourself to save money ... why take it to a mechanic when I can do it right and save her money. This ain't rocket science ...
#6
Remove the fan shroud top portion and you should be able to take a good look-see and determine for sure if the condensor can be removed without removing the radiator...I think it can be.
Might have to remove the grill/bumper cover to access the fittings though. Not difficult to do, just need to be careful of old/brittle plastic pieces.
Good luck and let us know how it turns-out.
Might have to remove the grill/bumper cover to access the fittings though. Not difficult to do, just need to be careful of old/brittle plastic pieces.
Good luck and let us know how it turns-out.
#7
You found a good article about flushing the condenser. Definitely a good idea to replace it after a compressor failure. You'll also need to at least "check" the fixed orifice tube for debris. They're only ~$2 so you might as well replace it. Evaporators can be flushed, but it is time consuming. Takes far less time than replacing it
Getting at the fittings on the condenser is the issue, the radiator is in the way. Best to completely remove the radiator and both halves of the shroud. To protect the radiator, always best to remove the fan. An ounce of prevention.... could save you the cost of a new radiator
Getting at the fittings on the condenser is the issue, the radiator is in the way. Best to completely remove the radiator and both halves of the shroud. To protect the radiator, always best to remove the fan. An ounce of prevention.... could save you the cost of a new radiator
#9
You found a good article about flushing the condenser. Definitely a good idea to replace it after a compressor failure. You'll also need to at least "check" the fixed orifice tube for debris. They're only ~$2 so you might as well replace it. Evaporators can be flushed, but it is time consuming. Takes far less time than replacing it
Getting at the fittings on the condenser is the issue, the radiator is in the way. Best to completely remove the radiator and both halves of the shroud. To protect the radiator, always best to remove the fan. An ounce of prevention.... could save you the cost of a new radiator
Getting at the fittings on the condenser is the issue, the radiator is in the way. Best to completely remove the radiator and both halves of the shroud. To protect the radiator, always best to remove the fan. An ounce of prevention.... could save you the cost of a new radiator
BTW, where is the orifice tube located. She already bought a kit that came with the compressor, dryer and orifice tube...I haven't had a chance to figure out where the orifice tube goes.
Thanks for your detailed answer!
#10
Locate the high side service port, near the right inner fender, just forward of the accumulator. Follow the line down, and toward the firewall. There is fitting just under the accumulator. Take it apart, (hold the fitting with a wrench, and carefully loosen the line nut with another wrench). The orifice is just inside the evaporator tube. There is a special tool for removing it that locks onto the orifice, then pull it straight out. Needle nose pliers work too Make sure you replace all of the O rings: they must be the green HNBR ones, not black.