How to: Install 4l60e Corvette Servo (Must have for any 4l60e) EASY!
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Starting Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 169
lol wow it all makes sense now, I can see the pump contour, thats looks tough to get to without removing the valve body... I think taking it out and putting in a shift kit wouldnt be to hard as long as the instructions were good. But thanks man i feel like I should pay you for all the help you have given me with this!
The benefits are more holding power on the 2nd gear clutch pack and crisper 1-2 and, I believe, 2-3 shifts. Shorter shifts = less slippage == less heat and wear.
I think there is sufficient clearance to remove the boost valve without the valve body being removed, but I can't remember specifically looking at that with the valve body installed.
I think there is sufficient clearance to remove the boost valve without the valve body being removed, but I can't remember specifically looking at that with the valve body installed.
New Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 6
From: cleveland
I just had my trans rebuilt and had the corvette servo put in, along with having the rest of the trans rebuilt, put an extra clutch in each clutch pack, bought a new torque converter. I couldn't be happier it feels almost like a stick in the way of no slip. to top it all off i only paid 750 for it and i put it on my tool account where i got to make payments and didn't have any interest on it.
Last edited by blazin_buffalo; Mar 7, 2011 at 07:54 PM.
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 279
From: Casa Grande, AZ
Not for nothing but, What kind of vechile are you all talking about? You know year, make, engine, the normal stuff one puts on the thread to identify said vechile. Is it a 95 and lower yr? 95 and upper yr?, Blazer?, etc...Engine? All of that sure would be helpfull.
New Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 6
Gentlemen,
Be carefull about all the rave with this corvette 2-4 servo, with an old high milage 4l60e, this can cause some to have friction material on front band to break off as well of the rest of the clutches in your transmission and not to forget the splines that hold all clucthes on their drums to sheer off if worn engugh if transmission is shifting to hard.
Their are four servos that you can choose from to suit your shift quality needs, i use the one for the 4L70e transmission on all builds. (just my to cents) no plug.
And as far as the reverse boot valve, this is located in the pump cover, wich is held in by a inside snap ring it to has some drawbacks if your transmission has seen time on or off road or pushing/pulling your buddy or your self out of a mess ect. (high milage)
Higher pressure is good on fresh seals but not any real benefit if your valve body spacer plate, 1-2 accumulator piston is worn, among other items. which most all are after 50000 miles on them (normal driving) all prior to 1998 these are aluminum and wear @ the center (get egg shaped) from the pin on which it slides on. after May 11, 1998 are plastic, though better, they to wear as do the springs that sit in the center of them ( both have different springs) do get weaker or crack bad thing, thats reason behind getting the line pressure up some in the frist place but not to much that you leak out conveter seal.
Be carefull about all the rave with this corvette 2-4 servo, with an old high milage 4l60e, this can cause some to have friction material on front band to break off as well of the rest of the clutches in your transmission and not to forget the splines that hold all clucthes on their drums to sheer off if worn engugh if transmission is shifting to hard.
Their are four servos that you can choose from to suit your shift quality needs, i use the one for the 4L70e transmission on all builds. (just my to cents) no plug.
And as far as the reverse boot valve, this is located in the pump cover, wich is held in by a inside snap ring it to has some drawbacks if your transmission has seen time on or off road or pushing/pulling your buddy or your self out of a mess ect. (high milage)
Higher pressure is good on fresh seals but not any real benefit if your valve body spacer plate, 1-2 accumulator piston is worn, among other items. which most all are after 50000 miles on them (normal driving) all prior to 1998 these are aluminum and wear @ the center (get egg shaped) from the pin on which it slides on. after May 11, 1998 are plastic, though better, they to wear as do the springs that sit in the center of them ( both have different springs) do get weaker or crack bad thing, thats reason behind getting the line pressure up some in the frist place but not to much that you leak out conveter seal.
