You have to re install the air box so it lines up with the intake hose properly so it doesn't leak. I keep thinking it is lined up when it really isn't sealing and it causes a serious leak, usually at the bottom section of the hose. That means it is very hard to see. I finally decided I should look at removing the MAF section of hose and with it off, line it up with the air box and tighten the hose clamp. Then install the air box and MAF section as a unit to ensure the intake hose is sealed tight at all connections. Is there a better way to do it? The upper radiator hose and the fuse box are all in the way. Pulling the radiator and upper hose would make this an 'easy job'. Oh, the irony! Any suggestions on the best way to do this would be appreciated. Thanks!

I removed the air box several times to get to the windshield washer tank/reservoir. It is all crammed together with the fuse panel and the upper rad. hose. One thing I noticed that really bothers me. The intake nozzle is a plastic horn that takes the cold air in from the front grill area. There is a round hole cut in the radiator front support structure. Good! But the problem is there are other braces and items blocking that hole! I would say only a fourth of the hole allows any air flow! So how do you get better air flow to the air box? That is short of going to an aftermarket CAI/ Cold Air Intake system!

I know you Blazer owners have replaced your air filter element and have figured out a better way to line up the air box with the rest of the air intake with the MAF sensor and so on. Can I take the entire intake off from the air box to the round attachment to the throttle body. Then connect it all with the hose clamps so it is good and tight and put it in place as a unit. Or is there a better,easier trick to do this?

 

Here's a write up in the Handymanlyness.com series on how to remove and replace the air ducting on a 4.3 L V6. With photo's. It is a lot of steps to go through to remove the air intake for access to the W/S washer tank. But it is worth it to get the connection joints to seal properly so there are no leaks. If you have a simpler way to do this, I would really like to see it. thanks, Jim


How To Remove Air Ducting On A Chevy Blazer or GMC Jimmy With A 4.3 Liter V6 Engine

 

The 'tools needed' list includes a 5/16" socket and ratchet or nut driver for the hose clamps. A large Philips screw driver with long shank for the four air box screws. I agree , but you don't need the small flat blade screwdriver for connection 'E'. Why? It doesn't need to come off. Neither does the two items labeled with a red 'D' which are GM clip on elec. connectors: one is for the MAF and one is for a temp sensor. On the 2003, you also need a 10mm deep socket and ratchet for the one nut on a stud holding the bottom of the air box.

Here's how the above site on : How to remove the air ducting starts:

"Working on the engine in a Chevy Blazer or GMC Jimmy often requires removing the air ducting to reach parts on top of the engine.
Removing the air ducting is straightforward and only requires a few tools. Time estimated, 5 minutes. "
Well, it took me 1 hour 5 minutes. While you are in there, clean your throttle body plate. Use your 'Intake manifold' cleaner, not carb cleaner as they say or Brake cleaner as some on You Tube say. Always use a clean shop rag, not a paper towel from the kitchen.

 

It really is a 5 minute job... If it took you over an hour...

 

So you are the guy who wrote the GM and FoMoCo Flat Rate Manuals!

 

Nope, just have some mechanical aptitude. It doesn't take much to replace an air filter in these trucks, period. You've had a rough time at it, I can see that. It doesn't change the fact that it isn't a tough job at all. If you found it so unbearably difficult, working on your own stuff might not be the thing for you.

But hey, if you want to throw out veiled insults, good luck with any future questions.

 

I am always amazed at the guys on the Sat. morning tv shows that put together a truck like Sgt. Rock on Gears. Stacy David makes it sound easy to fabricate a custom truck like Sgt. Rock with a completely new suspension, brake system, four wheel drive with four wheel steering and modern V8 where a 1940's era engine originally sat. I have problems with routine maintenance and repairs with stock replacements on a stock truck! Yes, I admit it and like my truck and will continue to work on it. I will not become a 'plastic mechanic' who says fix it and hands the guy a credit card. I am trying to learn new skills and gain knowledge through this forum. I thought that was one of the ideas of this forum: to share your knowledge with others who want to learn.

 

That is the point of the forum, but when you turn something that could have been asked in a simple enough manner (or simply searched on Google before asking) into a diatribe of difficulty and anguish, that is a different matter altogether. Add to the situation that you can't be bothered to edit your posts rather than post repeatedly with no real useful information (that pesky rule #6) and you have what transpired here.

The steps shown in the link you found pretty much covers what is required.

What were you removing the bottom of the airbox for anyway?