when you get your new air gap spark tester, reproduce the test in this video manually generating a coil spark and report back. If you still want to try manually indexing the distr rotor to a specific cylinder post and check at the plug this would be the time to do that as well since it takes so many variables out of the equation. Again, with your new air gap spark tester. If that all checks out then it’s still timing or ICM.


George

 

Has any engine work been done on this truck that involves the oil pump, cam, timing gear or chain? How many miles do you have?

Going back to the beginning, something failed instantly so that’s why your looking at coil, distr, fuel pump etc. we also know that you had significant timing issues before that because of the distr. cap carbon traces and distr gear wear. Did you inspect the cam gear? So even if the new distr is not set right, something else was still wrong. Why the badly worn distr gear and all the carbon traces?

did you have the intake back fires with the old distr installed. If yes then the problem is probably the cam gear, distr fear or timing chain/gear because the new distr has not changed that and the coil appears to produce reliable spark (pending your newest test result).

cylinder one is drivers side front as you said.

George

 

Once you get the distributor in on the right tooth (if it is off), the mark on the balancer is completely irrelevant. Any fine tuning of distributor position is done with the Cam Sensor Retard reading. To actually re-mark the balancer you will need to use a piston stop. I think that is more difficult than just moving the distributor a tooth or two - and if it slipped once it can slip again.

So I would just do as you did before with lining up the balancer marks with the timing cover - just alter the rotor position relative to the "6". If it starts you have hit the right tooth. there are 13 total teeth on the distributor gear.

 

💥no major engine work has ever been done since I've had it and it ran great for the last 5 years 🙂

I did the test where I place the rotor so it aims at 6 (not the 6 marking but the but the 6th piston pin on the distributer) then with out cranking but using the probe I pulsed the coil and bamm I get the lighted spark plug tester ti light up as with no problem.Im still waiting for the ark tester but this tells me rhe coil is strong enought to go from coil to plug...

I then checked the crank shaft it really dried up and cracking...I suspect it is has slipped after looking at some vids it looks like I could remove just the pulley and use the notch (the key) as a refrence point at it suppose to aim a few degrees after the top balancer marking when functional. I will remove the pulley to see if this top marking is way of from the key if so then bingo.

I will also try what you said and just a tooth over and back.

 

If you look closely at this balancer (its from ebay,I also looked at a new one from ac delco it's the same) one of the screws/post that hold the pulley is almost centered between both red balancer markings. If you look at the other picture which is mine the screw/posts is almost at one of the marking. (Possibly slipping) If you look at the yellow which is the key/notch Its almost pointing at the top 1st marking I was planning on using this to set the distributer by removing the pulley

Look mine the screw is not centered between the markings (i understand this could have been just pressed on or built a bit different but logic would tell me they build them all the same with a jig or somethiing.

 

Ok i got the ark tester and it has 1inch ark at the coil consistent and almost nothing at the plugs just one out of like 10 seconds of constant cranking.
i also used the methid where i placed the rotor to be aligned with the the #6 piston plug wire so that i can get a straight shot from coil to plug #6 and with out cranking but instead using the pulsing idea I was able to get a full 1 inch ark no problem.

so I removed the pulley from the crank shaft and was able to see that the notch/key from the crank shaft balancer has slipped as its looks a bit past the top marking and the reference pics of other balancers show the notch/key goes before the top marking please look at pictures.

See how my notch is after the top marking based of several other balancer I've looked at online it suppose to be before top marking 😁 its yas slipped guys!
So i will be getting a new balancer but before i do I will use this notch as my guid to try and put it on tdc and rotor on marking #6 based of pics 😁 i really hope this is it guys thanks!!!!

 

Ok so I aligned it based of the notch and did tdc with #6 marking at rotor and puuuuuuoooommmmm spark everywhere !!!💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥hauahaha then put the plug wire back in added the fuel relay and baaaammmmm 💥💥💥💥💥💥💥starts like a beautyyyyyyy!!!! 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀Hahaha thank you guys!!!!! Les and george please let me at least send you a 12 pack of beer each you guys are the best!!!!! And I know this comunity is filled with heros with out a cape like you 2 but you guys where with me the entire time I cant thank you enough!! My wife was already telling me to junk it lol but I love my lil truck hahaaa shhhiii I was already looking for an engine incase lol but this was it!!! I need a new balancer know researching how to replace it lol

 

After 4 month crank crank crank it has awakened thanks to this site and all you bad a$$es you guys rock thank you!!!!!

 

congratulations! It was a pleasure helping you because you followed all of our direction and stayed focused. Nice work.

George

 

thank you george I just replaced the balancer tighten everything up and checked tdc again with the new balancer and rotor at #6 and everything is perfect took it for a spin and refilled gas hit about 70 mph and runs like a champ I know i need to do the relearn but it runs nice 😲😀😀😀😀😀 I gonna send you 2 some beer $ thank youuuuuu