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I need help brainstorming crank no start

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  #41  
Old 02-12-2020, 02:01 PM
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hi all thanks again, les have started a thread

wade
 
  #42  
Old 02-12-2020, 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by LesMyer
Sorry, the Torque Pro gauge you made was intake manifold pressure, not intake air temperature. Can you please change your Torque app to read it (it's the PID right above the one that you selected). If it is OK then we will move on. Just need the PCM to actually see a temp there that makes sense.
Yes please no problem you are helping me 😁 let me get that

When you lined up the timing marks on the balancer, did you find both of them (as described in the factory intake manifold instructions that I linked)?
💢💢I will recheck and try the app settlings you mentioned 👍 Yes I have done the distributor install with succes a few times before and I understand there are 2 markings one uptop about 1 oclock and one bottom about 4-5 o'clock and have checked these... the one thing I want to recheck is if from factory they put the rotor 180 wrong (if thats even possible) 💢💢
 

Last edited by Blaze305; 02-12-2020 at 03:11 PM.
  #43  
Old 02-12-2020, 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by wadethenewf
hi all thanks again, les have started a thread

wade
great these guysare awesome have a bit of patience they will help 😁
 
  #44  
Old 02-12-2020, 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by LesMyer
Sorry, the Torque Pro gauge you made was intake manifold pressure, not intake air temperature. Can you please change your Torque app to read it (it's the PID right above the one that you selected). If it is OK then we will move on. Just need the PCM to actually see a temp there that makes sense.

When you lined up the timing marks on the balancer, did you find both of them (as described in the factory intake manifold instructions that I linked)?
💢i think i got it right now 😁💢

 
  #45  
Old 02-12-2020, 08:39 PM
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OK - so temp sensors are definitely not the problem. Next I suppose we should make sure it has compression on all the cylinders.
 
  #46  
Old 02-12-2020, 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by LesMyer
OK - so temp sensors are definitely not the problem. Next I suppose we should make sure it has compression on all the cylinders.
Ok I'll get back to you on that 🙂 I apppreriate all your efforts and help
 
  #47  
Old 02-13-2020, 09:00 AM
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Les has you on the right track with scanning capability and compression testing.

Keep in mind that your distr cap carbon tracks, intake back fires and messy spark output confirms that you have an ignition problem as part of this issue.

Your plug fouling adds adds to the mystery. I don’t remember, when you pulled the fuel pump relay fuse did you try a starting fluid to see if the truck starts with the fuel system disabled? Be careful and go easy with this test given the timing problems. Have a fire extinguisher handy. I once had a rotor tab break and point in the wrong direction creating timing problems and got the same flaming back fires that you are getting. I had to sacrifice a piece of clothing to put the fire out.

George
 
  #48  
Old 02-13-2020, 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by GeorgeLG
Les has you on the right track with scanning capability and compression testing.

Keep in mind that your distr cap carbon tracks, intake back fires and messy spark output confirms that you have an ignition problem as part of this issue.

Your plug fouling adds adds to the mystery. I don’t remember, when you pulled the fuel pump relay fuse did you try a starting fluid to see if the truck starts with the fuel system disabled? Be careful and go easy with this test given the timing problems. Have a fire extinguisher handy. I once had a rotor tab break and point in the wrong direction creating timing problems and got the same flaming back fires that you are getting. I had to sacrifice a piece of clothing to put the fire out.

George
Haha yes I I tryied disabling the fuel system by removing the relay and got it to start once quickly added the relay back and it ran for about 10 minutes then slowly studered died off havent been able to recreate that again when I do this same procedure now it just chokes spits out the intake.then when I keep cranking then remove the relay or if i do the clear flood where gas it all the way to the floor (i guess similar to removing the fuel relay) it tryies to turn on for a few seconds and sctually sounds nice lol then dies.
i should be getting the compression tester by tommorrow see if I can sneak in the test (valentine's day lol)
I also want to recheck that distributer and make sure they didn't put the rotor in backwards if thats even possible lol when I got it i just removed the cap/cover to install never touched the rotor.
 

Last edited by Blaze305; 02-13-2020 at 10:27 AM.
  #49  
Old 02-13-2020, 02:53 PM
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That adds additional mystery to your situation. On the one hand you see wonky spark results at the plug and see carbon tracks in the distr cap but it runs good if you start it without the fuel pump in the circuit. This implies that the fuel pump circuit is perturbing the ignition circuit. Watch spark at the plug end of the wires first with the fuel pump relay in and then again with the fuel pump relay removed. It doesn't matter if it starts for this test. Is there a difference?

George
 
  #50  
Old 02-13-2020, 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by GeorgeLG
That adds additional mystery to your situation. On the one hand you see wonky spark results at the plug and see carbon tracks in the distr cap but it runs good if you start it without the fuel pump in the circuit. This implies that the fuel pump circuit is perturbing the ignition circuit. Watch spark at the plug end of the wires first with the fuel pump relay in and then again with the fuel pump relay removed. It doesn't matter if it starts for this test. Is there a difference?

George
I'll check that ...not sure if you saw i wrote right after you gave me intructions to check the wires right after wonky spark I found 1 and 3 visa versa and since corrected that but still acting the same. I'll check the spark either way thanks
 

Last edited by Blaze305; 02-13-2020 at 09:05 PM.


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