I need help brainstorming crank no start
#62
The cam sensor retard spec is 0 +/- 2 degrees. With engine wear this parameter can start to drift and can get far enough out of whack to cause ignition problems. The way to deal with it is to modify or replace the hold down bracket so that you can rotate the distr to get close to 0 degrees.
George
George
Noticed the #1 was actially 145 and #6 was a bit lower than the rest at 100 and i rested it a few tines and held it to make sure it wasn't just leaking.
#63
Original camshaft ... notice the pins protrude out more
New dustributor with camshaft pins are way deeper and I already shaved off a bit of plastic
Last edited by Blaze305; 02-15-2020 at 01:16 PM.
#64
Engine will run fine even without the cam sensor being plugged in. It helps to time sequential fuel injection pulses and identifies which cylinder for misfires, but disconnect it and FI system just reverts to pulsing 2 banks of injectors. For a no-start its pretty unimportant.
Compression seems OK - seems enough to start and hit on all cylinders. And timing chain has not slipped. But charge the battery and recheck the #6. Maybe something there could be going on with valvetrain.
Compression seems OK - seems enough to start and hit on all cylinders. And timing chain has not slipped. But charge the battery and recheck the #6. Maybe something there could be going on with valvetrain.
Last edited by LesMyer; 02-15-2020 at 01:46 PM.
#65
Engine will run fine even without the cam sensor being plugged in. It helps to time sequential fuel injection pulses and identifies which cylinder for misfires, but disconnect it and FI system just reverts to pulsing 2 banks of injectors. For a no-start its pretty unimportant.
Compression seems OK - seems enough to start and hit on all cylinders. And timing chain has not slipped. But charge the battery and recheck the #6. Maybe something there could be going on with valvetrain.
Compression seems OK - seems enough to start and hit on all cylinders. And timing chain has not slipped. But charge the battery and recheck the #6. Maybe something there could be going on with valvetrain.
I will check that piston again with the chatger in jump start mode see what i get.
💢💢how do I check timing belt jumped? I have been checking tdc and distributor posotion but what if it jumped prior to me ibstalling new distributor? Thats where Im thinking what George metioned about zeroing in on the retard by using a modified distributor holder.💢💢
#66
Thank you that does make sense I was hopefull it was cam sensor not connecting (lol) I just replaced the cam sensor that actually clicks on and rechecked tdc,i also checked to make sure the distributor didn't have anything funny (that's how I noticed the cam sensor pins a bit deep and not clicking to harness) I have a brand new battery new battery charger and new starter lol battery is 13.5v fully charged.
I will check that piston again with the chatger in jump start mode see what i get.
💢💢how do I check timing belt jumped? I have been checking tdc and distributor posotion but what if it jumped prior to me ibstalling new distributor? Thats where Im thinking what George metioned about zeroing in on the retard by using a modified distributor holder.💢💢
I will check that piston again with the chatger in jump start mode see what i get.
💢💢how do I check timing belt jumped? I have been checking tdc and distributor posotion but what if it jumped prior to me ibstalling new distributor? Thats where Im thinking what George metioned about zeroing in on the retard by using a modified distributor holder.💢💢
I'll let George follow up on the cam sensor retard since he mentioned getting the universal hold down.
Last edited by LesMyer; 02-15-2020 at 02:57 PM.
#68
Next you should rule out excessive timing chain slack:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=4_f5ukZVri8
George
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=4_f5ukZVri8
George
I
#70
[QUOTE=GeorgeLG;718946]Next you should rule out excessive timing chain slack:
.... Im currently fully recharging the battery to retest piston #6
I tried putting the distributer 180 out just incase I have it wrong and it just pops and pops so I redid the tdc with the balloon as soon as I see it filling up on piston #1 I set the crank markings and the ditributor sits on the engine block with rotor at marking 6. And now its sound the same again with no start just crank (but no poping)
.... Im currently fully recharging the battery to retest piston #6
I tried putting the distributer 180 out just incase I have it wrong and it just pops and pops so I redid the tdc with the balloon as soon as I see it filling up on piston #1 I set the crank markings and the ditributor sits on the engine block with rotor at marking 6. And now its sound the same again with no start just crank (but no poping)
Last edited by Blaze305; 02-16-2020 at 05:11 PM.