Most low end scanners cannot measure cam retard but the scanning capability that Les has been helping you with should get you right.

George

 

Noticed the #1 was actially 145 and #6 was a bit lower than the rest at 100 and i rested it a few tines and held it to make sure it wasn't just leaking.

 

ok I just removed distributor again to check the gear and placement and noticed something.... the cam shaft connector is unable to completely click.the new one is deeper than the original so I'm shaving a bit of plastic off. if that doesn't work I will remove the camshaft and put in the original camshaft(which was a new part i also ordered but it clicks on) so maybe my camshaft was doing a weak conection I let you know soon as this rain stops lol

Original camshaft ... notice the pins protrude out more

New dustributor with camshaft pins are way deeper and I already shaved off a bit of plastic

 

Engine will run fine even without the cam sensor being plugged in. It helps to time sequential fuel injection pulses and identifies which cylinder for misfires, but disconnect it and FI system just reverts to pulsing 2 banks of injectors. For a no-start its pretty unimportant.

Compression seems OK - seems enough to start and hit on all cylinders. And timing chain has not slipped. But charge the battery and recheck the #6. Maybe something there could be going on with valvetrain.

 

Thank you that does make sense I was hopefull it was cam sensor not connecting (lol) I just replaced the cam sensor that actually clicks on and rechecked tdc,i also checked to make sure the distributor didn't have anything funny (that's how I noticed the cam sensor pins a bit deep and not clicking to harness) I have a brand new battery new battery charger and new starter lol battery is 13.5v fully charged.
I will check that piston again with the chatger in jump start mode see what i get.

💢💢how do I check timing belt jumped? I have been checking tdc and distributor posotion but what if it jumped prior to me ibstalling new distributor? Thats where Im thinking what George metioned about zeroing in on the retard by using a modified distributor holder.💢💢

 

You just did by checking compression. If timing chain (this doesn't have a belt) has slipped, the compression would be down across all cylinders.
I'll let George follow up on the cam sensor retard since he mentioned getting the universal hold down.

 

Next you should rule out excessive timing chain slack:



George

 

ok our trucks do not have a measuring plate just the 2 notches. I used it as a starting point then I rotated the crankshaft counter clock wise and it starts moving almost right away like 1/4 of an inch from my initial marking in the crankshaft. Look like the timing belt is ok per the test.
I

 

OK so your timing chain and your cam/distr gears should be in good shape.

Let us know when you get a chance to check the ICM/coil voltages and the spark pattern and strength at the plugs.

George

 

[QUOTE=GeorgeLG;718946]Next you should rule out excessive timing chain slack:


.... Im currently fully recharging the battery to retest piston #6
I tried putting the distributer 180 out just incase I have it wrong and it just pops and pops so I redid the tdc with the balloon as soon as I see it filling up on piston #1 I set the crank markings and the ditributor sits on the engine block with rotor at marking 6. And now its sound the same again with no start just crank (but no poping)



​​​​