Hey all,

First post but this forum has been a HUGE help with my 95 Blazer over the last couple of years. It's a Vortec v6 "W" engine.

So a couple of weeks ago I started noticing a rough idle, hesitation on acceleration, showing signs of wanting to stall on acceleration and eventually misfiring and backfiring through the tailpipe.

This Blazer is well over 200k miles, and I don't have much money to put into it, but I need to do what I can to keep it driving.

I'm okay with tools but I'm not a mechanic - I've done some minor repairs on my cars over the years. Yesterday my check engine light (which has been on since I've owned it) started blinking. I quickly got it home, and opened it up. I checked the oil, reeked of gas.

I take it to the mechanic and pay them $50 to diagnose it. A new shop literally a block away, first time I'd been there. Anyway they call me and say it's the Spider and it'll be $1k to fix. I don't have $1k.

So today I decide to pull the upper plenum myself. The FPR side was gunked up. The Nutkit side was washed out - and 2 of the injector poppets where completely unattached, they had just been dumping fuel all over the place in there.

So here's my question - I really can't afford to by a new spider system. I mean, the 2 poppets completely detached were most likely the problem right? I'm not the smartest guy when it comes to cars - but I mean - right?

No signs of wash under the FPR side. I cleaned up the Plenum, plugged them back in and stuffed some rags around all the connections and then energized the fuel pump. No leaks anywhere.

I'm not sure what would cause them to pop in the first place. I could tell the plenum had been pulled before because of a wear on the bolts. I've had it about 2 years.

I don't have much money or time right now to put into this, so any help is MUCH appreciated. The two poppets that were out where the 2 rear poppets on the right side, closest to the nutkit.

I'm going to pull them back out and inspect them (I didn't really think to look at them when I noticed, I was just like "WTF?" and snapped them back in, they seem snug and again, no leaks running the fuel pump.)

Is there any "ghetto" way to rig this up to work for now? Was thinking wrapping them in Teflon, or maybe some kind of sealant out there I don't know about to make sure they're snug.

I closely inspected the nutkit, no signs of any leakage. I'd rather not pull the spider if I can avoid it.

So yeah, my question is would you guess that this will help temporarily so I can save up for a replacement if/when necessary?

Side note: It started running like this on the way home from a ~130 round trip. I ran it out of gas (gas gauge is nuts) but had some in the truck. It started acting up almost immediately after. Could that have maybe caused the poppets to disconnect - or be connected to the problem somehow?

I'm going to grab some fresh oil and a new gasket. Anything else I should (inexpensively) check while I have it open?

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

 

With two poppet nozzles out, it would run quite poorly. How does it run with them back in? The poppet nozzles just clip into the bores in the lower intake manifold. If they feel snug, they shouldn't be a problem. Putting anything in there could likely result in getting whatever you use sucked into the valve/cylinder where it may or may not damage anything.

The next thing to do is to get the fuel pressure & leak down checked; report back here with the numbers and we'll go from there.

 

Thanks for the help!

I'm about to run to the store (in a different car) and grab a gasket, I think they loan out a fuel pressure tester - keep in mind the blazer is still pulled apart - would it be smart to test the pressure in the "ON" position before putting it back together? I'm guessing yes.

Also, maybe a dumb question but the poppets spraying gas while detached would most likely explain the fuel building up in the oil right? Barring a bad head gasket or something?

I'm not sure how it runs with them back in yet, I haven't replaced the upper Plenum or started it. Thanks for the help, it's really appreciated, I'll report back shortly.

 

Plug the lines back in, connect the tester, turn the ignition to RUN, engine off. The fuel pump will run for ~ 2 seconds and shut off. While the pump is running, watch for fuel leaks. Post the pressure while the pump is running, wait 10 minutes with the pump off and write the pressure down. Post your results.

 

Well, almost there.

I borrowed a fuel pressure test kit when buying the gasket, new oil, etc. It's broken. The release valve is busted, fuel just squirts through it and it shows no reading. I decided to just continue putting everything back together.

Just have to double-check that everything is tight and connected, change the oil and replace whatever this is...

...If you look at the image below, right where the throttle/cruise control wires connect, below that you see a hose going off to the left. It connects up top just above/behind intake manifold.



And the other end looks like maybe a relief valve or filter, weird round connection that plugs in down and to the left. I just broke that hose.

I need to figure out what that is so I can replace it and then I'll see what happens. If anyone knows what that is I'd really appreciate it. I'm searching around but no luck yet, thanks.

 

Okay, it's the PCV valve.

I'll grab a replacement for that after I'm finished wrestling the oil drain plug off. The shop tightened it insanely tight. Besides the PCV valve and fresh oil, everything is put back together. Excited to start it up, I'll post here and let you guys know how it goes. I really appreciate your help.

 

Check the pressure and leakdown at the service port. You can do that now, engine must be off to check it. Key ON, engine OFF, fuel pump running, pressure must be 55psi to 61psi, and it must remain above 50psi for at least 10 minutes after the pump shuts off.

 

I have a 95 too and I did the spider replacement when I changed the lower intake manifold gasket. I bought a rebuilt spider with plenum gasket for under $200.00 from rockauto. I think your mechanic is robbing you for 1000.00. The spider replacement is an easy job and it seems that you are half way there with disassembling. Further, a cheaper way of fixing is to replace the fuel pressure regulator on the spider, if there are no other leaks found during leak down test.

good luck,
bizzs

 

Well I'm giving up for the night. The oil drain plug is ridiculous, I'll let the shop handle it. I did start the car up and run it for a few minutes. I didn't want to drive with the bad oil but it sounds/idles/responds to acceleration much better. Going to grab and throw in the PCV valve tonight, have oil changed tomorrow, see how it goes.

As far as the pressure test I don't have another kit beyond the broken one (see above) the store loaned me. I'll try to get one soon, but assuming this fixes the problem(s) I'll know the first time I drive it.

One last question before I go - anyway to reset the computer on these? Disconnect the negative cable? I'm worried it'll drive like it still thinks it's only getting fuel out of 4 injectors.

Thanks again for all of your help guys, will post update asap.

 

Depends which computer control system you have, there were 3 different ones used in 95, and two different injection systems. Does your connector under the dash look like the top one, or bottom one?