2nd Generation S-series (1995-2005) Tech Discuss 2nd generation S-series (1995-2005) general tech topics here.

Intake Manifold Gasket

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Old Oct 21, 2010 | 11:40 AM
  #11  
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i would do a manifold gasket. probably worth changing the thermostat for a few bucks since it over heated. i work at a Napa store and we sell this product called fast motor flush (in a red can its a big seller) you should try that too. the part number is 095336 its about 6 bucks. it should do the trick
 
Old Oct 21, 2010 | 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by NapaRich
i would do a manifold gasket. probably worth changing the thermostat for a few bucks since it over heated. i work at a Napa store and we sell this product called fast motor flush (in a red can its a big seller) you should try that too. the part number is 095336 its about 6 bucks. it should do the trick
I'm pretty sure the thermostat is fine and the overheating was caused by the blown intake manifold gasket. Now all I have to do is get the car started.so I can flush the motor. I'll have to double check the distributor and wires first. I'm pretty sure I put it in correctly....my two marks lined up perfectly when I dropped it in.
 
Old Oct 21, 2010 | 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by robertr728
You'll know after you get it started if the heads are cracked. If it runs OK and don't overheat its probably OK . Be sure to get the dist back on time and don't bend and pins when putting the injector plug back on the intake and it'll fire right up and run better than it has in awhile .
It took all day today but I finally got it started but it's running terrible and making erratic popping sounds from the exhust. I poured a pint of Seafoam into the oil and let it run at temperature for about 30 minutes and it didn't move past 195 degrees so that's good. Just using my senses it appeared that one of the cylinders isn't firing..at least it didn't notice a difference when I pulled the plug wire. I had spark as tested by the screwdriver to metal method so I home one of the injectors isn't fouled...than again I should have replaced them all when I has the manifold out...my bad...then again I don't know how to change them and would have messed up the job.

Oil pressure is a bit high as for 10 years it's been 20lbs at idle and it was at 40 then went down to about 30 after 10 minutes so something could be blocked slightly in the oil line. Check engine light is still on...not sure if it just needs to be cleared from the other day or it's indicating something else. I don't have a code reader so I might have to bring it into the neighborhood garage to see what's wrong now. Anyway...in case of an emergency, like out of beer or smokes, I can use the truck.
 
Old Oct 22, 2010 | 08:46 AM
  #14  
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Sounds like you got 2 plug wires crossed. Be sure they are on correctly.
And there is no need to replace the injectors unless they go bad and they can last a long time.

 

Last edited by robertr728; Oct 22, 2010 at 08:53 AM.
Old Oct 22, 2010 | 10:06 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by robertr728
Sounds like you got 2 plug wires crossed. Be sure they are on correctly.
And there is no need to replace the injectors unless they go bad and they can last a long time.
Thanks, you had it right on the nose but I found it before I saw this message. I'm surprised that I was even able to get it started with number 2 and 4 wire crossed. I was sure I double checked it but I was tired. It's running a lot better now and the check engine light cleared on my 4 mile test drive. The only thing bothering me now is that the oil pressure is 10 lbs higher than it was at idle. Just worrying about an oil line being plugged or something.
The mechanic I talked to this morning said it might just be a clogged oil sensor. Some of the oil/water mixture had the consistency of heated honey when I did the first oil drain. I made an appointment for Monday to hook it up to the diagnostic computer to check everything out. I also asked for a vacuum test and cooling pressure test. While it's in the shop should anything else be tested that the computer can't detect.
 
Old Oct 22, 2010 | 01:55 PM
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It could be just the sea-foam. When I changed my intake I did the sea-foam flush immediately after as well. Im not sure if it could cause it, but after changing my oil to get the seafoam out everything returned back to normal. Like I said, I dont know if seafoam causes this, but it seemed to in my application.
 
Old Oct 22, 2010 | 08:30 PM
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After everything gets back to normal, dump in a can of Restore and watch your oil pressure jump up Another 10 pounds... Then after about a week of driving, your truck will start to increase in power. I am a mechanic by trade and I do NOT believe in a mechanic in a bottle, but I have to admit this lead based stuff really works! My "Butt-Dyno" shows a power increase in my truck.
 
Old Oct 25, 2010 | 11:45 AM
  #18  
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Just to be sure I brought my 99 Blazer to the local garage for some tests. Cooling system pressure was good except for one tiny leak from the bypass hose on the water pump which a new clamp fixed. Vacuum was good and he saw no need to hook it up to the computer if no warning lights were on so my total today was $20.39. I don't think I even got out of Lowes that cheap. I'd like to thank everyone for their help...even my wife who labeled the parts and connections so I'd know how things go back together. I just had to answer 50 "What's that called" questions.
 
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