intake manifold problem
#3
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Depends why and if you are removing the manifold. If you already have the felpro metal reinforced gaskets then yes and it will be fine. I have actually removed those from one engine and put on another engine 4 months later. However, if you have the stock plastic junk i probably wouldnt but in theory if you dont move the manifold it should be fine.
My question is why? Do you just want to re-torque them to proper specs or do you need to move the manifold? Either way your silicone on the ends would prevent it from moving much but loosening could also break the silicones bond and cause oil seepage at the front or rear.
In my opinion, 50/50 yes and no
Depends:
What gaskets do you have?
How old are they?
And why do you need to do this?
Also an oil change will need to be done afterwords, if you dont drain the cooling system then some antifreeze could seep into the crankcase when you loosen bolts. Better safe than sorry...
My question is why? Do you just want to re-torque them to proper specs or do you need to move the manifold? Either way your silicone on the ends would prevent it from moving much but loosening could also break the silicones bond and cause oil seepage at the front or rear.
In my opinion, 50/50 yes and no
Depends:
What gaskets do you have?
How old are they?
And why do you need to do this?
Also an oil change will need to be done afterwords, if you dont drain the cooling system then some antifreeze could seep into the crankcase when you loosen bolts. Better safe than sorry...
#4
![Default](https://blazerforum.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Depends why and if you are removing the manifold. If you already have the felpro metal reinforced gaskets then yes and it will be fine. I have actually removed those from one engine and put on another engine 4 months later. However, if you have the stock plastic junk i probably wouldnt but in theory if you dont move the manifold it should be fine.
My question is why? Do you just want to re-torque them to proper specs or do you need to move the manifold? Either way your silicone on the ends would prevent it from moving much but loosening could also break the silicones bond and cause oil seepage at the front or rear.
In my opinion, 50/50 yes and no
Depends:
What gaskets do you have?
How old are they?
And why do you need to do this?
Also an oil change will need to be done afterwords, if you dont drain the cooling system then some antifreeze could seep into the crankcase when you loosen bolts. Better safe than sorry...
My question is why? Do you just want to re-torque them to proper specs or do you need to move the manifold? Either way your silicone on the ends would prevent it from moving much but loosening could also break the silicones bond and cause oil seepage at the front or rear.
In my opinion, 50/50 yes and no
Depends:
What gaskets do you have?
How old are they?
And why do you need to do this?
Also an oil change will need to be done afterwords, if you dont drain the cooling system then some antifreeze could seep into the crankcase when you loosen bolts. Better safe than sorry...
so after that was done fixing his "repair" i was thinking what else did he mess up? so i wanted to re-torque the manifold just as insurance. im pretty sure its the Fel pro gaskets
Last edited by sky_blazer; 11-05-2014 at 06:00 PM.
#5
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Ok yeah I read that post. At least youre getting it straightened out now...
Anyway, the best thing to do is probably just back them off some then retorque, no need to loosen them completely, just get the proper inch pound torque wrench and follow the tightening sequence and you should be fine, also i would change the oil for good measure, i hope he did that already but an intake job should really have the oil changed twice, once immediatley following the repair and then again soon after to be sure all of the contamination is gone.
Anyway, the best thing to do is probably just back them off some then retorque, no need to loosen them completely, just get the proper inch pound torque wrench and follow the tightening sequence and you should be fine, also i would change the oil for good measure, i hope he did that already but an intake job should really have the oil changed twice, once immediatley following the repair and then again soon after to be sure all of the contamination is gone.
#6
![Default](https://blazerforum.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Ok yeah I read that post. At least youre getting it straightened out now...
Anyway, the best thing to do is probably just back them off some then retorque, no need to loosen them completely, just get the proper inch pound torque wrench and follow the tightening sequence and you should be fine, also i would change the oil for good measure, i hope he did that already but an intake job should really have the oil changed twice, once immediatley following the repair and then again soon after to be sure all of the contamination is gone.
Anyway, the best thing to do is probably just back them off some then retorque, no need to loosen them completely, just get the proper inch pound torque wrench and follow the tightening sequence and you should be fine, also i would change the oil for good measure, i hope he did that already but an intake job should really have the oil changed twice, once immediatley following the repair and then again soon after to be sure all of the contamination is gone.
#7
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i have been driving the truck for about 4 days back and fourth to work. if the intake manifold is torqued down wrong am i doing any damage to the manifold itself?
also experiencing a hard start on a cold engine could this be a sign its improperly torqued?
also experiencing a hard start on a cold engine could this be a sign its improperly torqued?
#8
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![](https://blazerforum.com/forum/attachments/2nd-generation-s-series-1995-2005-tech-41/23289-intake-manifold-problem-intakemanifold001-copy.jpg?dateline=1415303843)
Last edited by LesMyer; 11-06-2014 at 02:01 PM.
#9
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thanks thats what i was looking for ill tackle it this weekend. do i need to remove everything on top of the motor or can i just get to the bolts?
#10
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Les