First thing's first: 2000 LS, 4.3L, Auto, 4x4x4, 4-button Auto-Trac, a plethora of new parts, etc.

Now, I have a problem. Cool search it up then, right? Check.
My code of P0410 is broken down here.
4wd NOT disengaging has been done and done again... BUT that usually has to do with a frozen cable, or accuator failure...

So here's my problem. A while back I threw a P0410. Checked some lines, pinched things, recconected things, etc. It went away, but my fuel economy suffered and has not rebounded yet... Then it popped up again about 10 days ago. Along with it came and fun little grinding noise that was like a light piece of metal fluttering (imagine brake shield/cat heat shield sound). i found that this occured mostly when moving the wheels (say sterring a bit at a stop) or when holding the brakes on a slight decline but not really rolling.

This morning, I took it in to the guys that did all of my front end work after i owned that CRX a few months back. I was hoping it was something stupid like a bad wheel hub they replaced, or a loose brake shield, etc. Something that could be covered under warranty since I'm tired of throwing money at this pig for now.

Well they drove it around a bit and diagnosed the grinding as a bad sway bar end/bad busshing (??? ok, but grinding ???) and showed me just how awesome a vehicle in 2 hi looks with all four tires spinning under power when lifted.

Sweet. So now I have grinding (sway bar?) bad 2nd air system (vac line/accuator which just checked out like 70 days ago) and a vehicle stuck in 4wd (frozen cable/bad collar).

EXCEPT im a 4 button. I say that BECAUSE i know how a 4wd backs up and turns IN 4wd... my heap handles NOTHING like that. it's more like it's stuck in 4 Auto...

So that leaves me at: WTF? I am going to spend all of tomorrow chasing vac lines to be sure (again). If i can't turn up any bad lines its off to the selonoid. If she's still good, next stop will be disconnecting the line to the front diff and plugging it so i can at lease get around 2wd style until i can get an answer. this 13.6 MPG i have been rolling with is not exactly idea....

if the vac stuff checks out, I can easily screw with the cable, but after that I am at a loss. How do i check a collar for proper engagement/disengagement?
and lastly, i should be rolling with a 28mm sway bar correct? not 30mm and 33mm was only on Zr2s right? If i need new bushings/ends ti would be for the 28mm right?

Any thing helps

 

HOLY S**T! Curtis, you just nailed what my heap started doing a few weeks ago.

does your truck disengauge at all? mine does about 3 to 10 seconds after i push 2HI (mine is the normal 3 button system).

but just the past few days, it's been staying stuck in 4WD, even when the switch shows 2HI. when it does release, sometimes it bangs-HARD! kinda like missing a gear slightly when trying to power shift (did you understand that?). drove for almost 15 minutes before it "banged" outta 4HI this afternoon. i wonder if the fluid is low again (passenger seal on the end of the tube leaks), should've checked it when i put my last 2 new Winter tires on today.

 

The NV236 has a preloaded clutch pack. The front driveshaft will always spin on a NV236 equiped truck, but you should be able to stop it relatively easily (IE. the transfer case is not delivering much torque to the front axle). The front wheels should not as the power should go into the diff and out the disconnected passenger side output. If your front axle is always engaged (check for vacuum at the actuator when in 2HI), I would first check to make sure that the vacuum lines to the vacuum solenoid are on correctly. Reverse them and it will always supply vacuum to the actuator.

I don't think the sway bar end links were any different across the different sway bar diameters. The inner mounts though were different. The different diameters were offered in different suspension packages. If you have the premium smooth ride package, you'll likely have the 28mm bars. But I would measure them to be sure.

 

Alright. Now I have something to work with!
1) double check solenoid lines
2) check line *from* accuator to diff
3) my ride SHOULD have a 28mm sway bar.

Here we go then... Will post progress/anything I find.

Thank you Kyle.


Chris: I really hope if we have similar problems, that we can both get back up and running right if this pans out!
and I caught the power shifting refference, but mine doesn't *bang* out of 4wd. Just stays in what feels like 4 Auto...

As for wheel power, the wheels were spinning like mad. Not just slight spinning, and not faster on the P side and slower on the d side as normal. They were all four getting with it.... i didn't really want to stick my foot out and "try" to stop them That being said, it SHOULD be the way i have previously noted correct? (i.e. power to p side front less to d side)