Interior trim removal
BF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 2,278
From: Texas
Yeah, the year, and maybe a pic of the dash?
On my 95, the best way is to remove the trim at the very bottom of the dash all the way across, then you can access the two nuts (15mm wrench I believe) that drops the steering column. Makes it SO much easier to take out the big trim piece that goes around the guages, radio, etc
On my 95, the best way is to remove the trim at the very bottom of the dash all the way across, then you can access the two nuts (15mm wrench I believe) that drops the steering column. Makes it SO much easier to take out the big trim piece that goes around the guages, radio, etc
All you'll need is a 7mm socket, extension, and ratchet.
Drop the 4 bolts by the driver's knees, then pull down panel. Two more on either side of the steering wheel. Then the last one at the top of the gauge cluster.
Go slow when pulling this bezel off, as they like to break in a few places....on top between the 4x4 switch, and above the gauge cluster. I'd recomment starting from the right, and slowly working your way up and left. If you get to a point where its a bit tough, don't force it....start on the other end and slowly work your way right.
You'll also have to disconnect the 4x4 switch, rear wiper button/tail gate release/ and the headlight switch. A flat head screwdriver will make life easier here.
You might need to keep your key in the ignition, to you can move the shifter down and out of the way....unless you have a center console shifter.
Hope that helps!
Drop the 4 bolts by the driver's knees, then pull down panel. Two more on either side of the steering wheel. Then the last one at the top of the gauge cluster.
Go slow when pulling this bezel off, as they like to break in a few places....on top between the 4x4 switch, and above the gauge cluster. I'd recomment starting from the right, and slowly working your way up and left. If you get to a point where its a bit tough, don't force it....start on the other end and slowly work your way right.
You'll also have to disconnect the 4x4 switch, rear wiper button/tail gate release/ and the headlight switch. A flat head screwdriver will make life easier here.
You might need to keep your key in the ignition, to you can move the shifter down and out of the way....unless you have a center console shifter.
Hope that helps!
BF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 2,278
From: Texas
N Jensen, there's two bolts up there that when removed, drops the whole steering column out of the way. Makes it so much easier to remove that bezel! Don't have to worry about breaking it, either.
At least that's how it is on my 95. Curious to see if later second gens are like that
At least that's how it is on my 95. Curious to see if later second gens are like that
Beginning Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 45
From: Oklahoma
As N. Jensen said above be careful when removing the dash bezel. Mine cracked exactly where he said above the gauge cluster. I just removed mine to replace a dash vent and light that illuminates the headlight switch and cracked the top part above the gauges. I was handling it as carefully as I could and knew it would be brittle from years of sun hitting that top spot but it still cracked. I was able to repair it but still can see the line where it cracked. Thinking an egg is harder to crack than parts of that bezel.
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