Is everyone afraid to touch this one? I believe i can possibly save this pump. I would encapsulate the underside connections in epoxy. I would also cut the plug off the top and solder some leads to the pump to give me enough room to solder those leads to the harness on the blazer. Completely eliminating the crap connections. I would also encapsulate the top plugs solder connections. If it didn't work I'd only be out the cost of some JB Weld and time. Any thoughts.

 

Fuel pump is fixed! I didn't hard wire the pressure switch but the other 3 plugs were removed and replaced with soldered connections. All the connections were encapsulated in JB Weld. 63 psi with one cycle of the ignition or about 2 seconds of pump run time. 55 psi while running. Could have been done in 3 hours if I had a new replacement pump ready and waiting when I dropped the tank. Instead of 2-3 hundred dollars I was able to get by with less than 10. Very pleased.

 

The pump failed again. The first day it got over 85 degrees it started and ran for a couple of minutes and died. Crap! New pump is on the way. I might disect the pump motor after I remove it or I might just **** on it. Such is life. The good in this is I waited in the driveway and wanted to confirm the heat problem was fixed. No tow.

 

one of the reasons they fail prematurely is a cheaper brand, another is running on low fuel. The fuel in the tank acts like a coolant for the pump. Ethanol is also a harmful ingredient no matter what the government or whomever allows this in the gas says. Gas no longer has a good shelf life, and is hydroscopic (absorbs moisture or water) due to ethanol.

 

Got around to putting in the new pump. All good now. My pressure numbers with the new pump are the same as the old pump when the outside temp was around 60 degrees F. The early morning after the 85 degree day the pump worked fine again when it was only 60. I find it amazing that temperature can have such a dramatic effect. I did verify it with pressure tests at different temps. Hope this helps someone. When temp was borderline the pump would still work but may only be enough to get it started and run a little while. At 85 the pump would only run a couple of revolutions after every rap with a hammer to the tank then stop completely. The cooler morning it ran like a new pump without having to hit it to get it going.

 

The fuel cooling the pump is a myth.. just thought I would point that out

Since the fuel is running through the pump, so its being cooled that way.

 

Correct, its pretty easy to figure that out. The pump also appears to be submerged in gas inside the punp assembly unless you run it completely dry. The temp of the gasoline surrouding the pump can change with outside temps though. Also in support of all those who disagree and think the tank needs to be 1/4 full or more all the time, they are somewhat correct in the fact that the heat the pump generates will have a lot less effect heating 18 gallons than 2. But the pump is always cooled by the gas unless the gas is hotter than the pump or there is no gas.

 

Ha Ha Ha