I just purchased a blazer 2 days ago.
I knew about a power steering leak (possibly a hose), but can't find the leak yet. It's dripping along the front, driver's side bumper. Have to wait 'til I can get it up on the lift cuz it's hard to see anything just crawling under it.
Engine lights on, code P0452 comes up. Fuel gauge reads empty with low fuel light on....I was told it needs a sending unit.

Things I didn't find 'til I got it home:
The headlights come on as soon as I start the vehicle. I thought at first it was just the daytime running lights. But the tail lights are on and I can put my high beams on. All this with the headlight switch off. ??? Doesn't make any sense. Is this normal?

Opened the fuse cover and there was a wire connected to the rear wiper fuse. So I took the fuse out, pulled the wire out, and it wasn't connected on the other end, just stuffed in behind the fuse panel. Any idea why someone would do this? (rear wiper does not work)

Checked codes, got 2 more codes coming up: P0410 & P0442 (did read the explanations on these codes, but I guess I'll have to take it to the garage)

When I test drove the vehicle, it seemed to be a little rocky. I was on back roads, and the road was bumpy and had ripples in it. So I figured that was it. But when I drove the vehicle home, on straight smooth roads, I noticed it actually did rock from side to side a little. I wasn't a smooth ride. The tires are all good.

Tires are 235 75 R15 instead of 235 70 R15 which is printed on the inside of the door. Is this OK?

Oh, and the aftermarket radio doesn't shut off when I turn the key off. I'm sure this is just the way they hooked it up.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Melinda

 

Hi Melinda,
The fuel pumps and the sending units (they're actually one assembly in the gas tank) are a common problem in these trucks. In mine, the gas guage quit working about 5 years ago, but I wasn't going to spend the bucks to fix that while the fuel pump was still working (which it did until last May). If I were you, I would just reset the trip meter every time you fill the tank and don't let it run past 240-250 miles. The truck will actually get close to 300 miles on a full tank if it's in good tune, but no reason to push it. Plus, the gas actually acts as a coolant for the electric pump, so anyone who lets the tank get way low before refilling is only shortening the life of their pump.
You didn't mention if your truck is an LT or an LS (LTs have automatic headlights - might have been optional on LSs, but I don't know). With the automatic lights, you just leave the switch off all the time. When you take the shifter out of park, the daytime running lights (which use the high beams) should come on (no tail lights). If it's dark, or approaching dark, the automatic headlight sensor will turn on the headlights instead of the DRLs. If it's doing it during the daytime then something is amiss, it could be that the headlight sensor is bad (don't keep anything on the dash...covering the sensor will make the truck think it's dark).
Someone was probably trying to hardwire the rear wiper to bypass the fuse and noticed it didn't fix the problem, so they just left it. Never hardware around a fuse...fires start that way.
Your tires are just a little narrower than stock and shouldn't be causing the problem. Probably new shocks are on the to-do list. However, have someone check your front ball joints and idler arm. They are another area of weak design on these trucks. If they are badly worn, it will make the truck wander...if they're that bad, get them fixed fast - a very unsafe condition! Most aftermarket replacement parts are beefed up to fix the problem.
Good luck.
Garry

 

gary200blazer was spot on!

I bought my 2000 Blazer about a year agon and have been through most of those issues in one way or another too.

Fuel Gague is bad in mine. Same thing gary said, no harm no foul, so long as the PUMP works, I dont need the gague as long as i resent my Odometer (i only get 230 miles out of a tank, but I drive like an a-hole)

I have an LS and my headlights come on as soon as i put it in gear. If you want control of your lights, use the dome light override button. push it on/off 3 times and you will hear a chime indicated manual light control. now you can cruise with marker lights and look WaaAAaAAyyYYYy cooler than all the other blazers

235/70r15 were a stock size. take a peek at your spare (probably under the rear bumper) if it's 235/70r15 you're good.

I have to say, I put up with "shocks" that made my vehicle ride like a boat on choppy water for too long. Changing out your shocks is surprisingly simple, a huge safety bonus (crisper handling, better braking, warm and fuzzy), and only going to set you back like $150. I got Monroe reflex shocks and i <3 them. There are plenty of shock discussion threads to look at if you want to do your own research.

Is your vehicle a 2wd, 4wd, 2door, 4 door, LS, LT, milage, auto, manual ? This kind of info can help when diagnosing problems, AND will let us know what other potential issues you should look into (i.e. push button 4wd system)

 

Thanks for responding guys.....

After having it a few days, I finally took it to my mechanic. Just a little update:

Power steering leak: lines in the front behind the driver's side grill. Been replaced and working fine.

Headlights: my mechanic told me about the automatic headlights on it.

Wire in fuse panel: previous owner had a 2-way radio hooked up that way

Boat on choppy water: front shocks

Tires: they had studded tires on the back, and the front were mismatched. Just went ahead and replaced all 4 with new tires and kept 235 75 R15 on it. Tire place said that size would be fine.

Aftermarket radio not shutting off: well, I was turning the key off 1 click too far.

Fuel gauge: doesn't bother me that it doesn't work, going by the odometer and filled it at 203 miles. Ended up putting 15 gallons in it.

The only problem that I'm having with it now is getting it inspected. I get 3 codes coming up. P0410, P0442, P0452.

Looks like I'm gonna need an air pump and possibly a sending unit or fuel pump. It's like a guessing game with the emissions. Keep changing things 'til ya fix the problem.

Thanks again,
Melinda

 

Changing out the Rear shocks are simple, those front ones on a 2000 4x4 LT are a bear.

 

x2 on front shocks being more difficult. not too bad though (i fear changing my air filter and i pulled it off). just remove front tire and go in from the hood first. Not too bad.

As for your fuel gauge 203 miles @ 15 gallons should leave you 3 or four gallons. Assuming ful, you are looking at about 13.5 mpg. so in a pinch you could squeeze another 30 miles out of her.... BUT like garry2000 said, running it down to nothing and refilling over and over will shorten the pump's life time. You should be good refilling like you are.

As for your codes... you COULD have them fixed individually.... OR you could go to autozone, have them "read your codes" zero them out and THEN go get inspected.... no harm, no foul....

 

Well, I got the air pump problem fixed. Changed the pressure switch (I believe that's what it's called) and the two vaccum lines coming out of it. No more P0410 Code.

While I was waiting for the monitors to complete for inspection, the check engine light come back on. So I took it to Advance Auto to see what code made the light come on. Still P0452. So I purchased a Pressure Sensor Switch and a Fuel Pump and sending unit. Went to leave, and it wouldn't start. So I had to have it towed home.

What I do remember while driving it to Advance is that I heard like a crackling noise under the glove box. Sounded like it was sparking.
Anybody know what is under there that would make it do that. The computer maybe. Would that have anything to do with why it wouldn't start?

Melinda

 

Sounds like you need to get a look at what could possibly be causing that crackling noise under the dash.

I am not sure if you saw the diagnostic sheet for the P0452 code, but here is a link:
P0452 - Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor Low Input

The trick with the front shocks is to bolt them in at the top first before removing the strap on them. Then cut the strap and guide the shock into place.

 

The crackling noise under the glove box is from a bad connection somewhere in the turn signal switch. Just moving the steering wheel or moving the wires going to the turn signal, will cause the flasher to go off. Looks like I'm going to need a new turn signal.

Installed a new fuel pump/sending unit. Finally got it running. Drove it for a day, and the engine light come back on with code P0446. Ended up changing the vent solenoid. So hopefully I got the EVAP situation taken care of. No more codes and the EVAP monitor has cleared.

Haven't been able to get the Secondary Air monitor cleared, so we got a used air pump assembly at a salvage yard, put it on, and the fuse kept blowing as soon as the vehicle started and the engine light (P0410) come back on. Bad Pump. So we just put a new air pump on it. Hopefully the monitor will clear and the engine light will go out. Now, everytime I start it, the vehicle whines, until the pump shuts off. Very annoying!! Is this normal for a brand new air pump?

Thanks for the tip on the front shocks, swartlkk. I haven't been able to get that far on it yet. Trying to get the codes to stay off and the monitors to clear so I can get it inspected first. Then I'll tackle that.