Just received a 2003 chevy blazer ls
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Beginning Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 24
From: Raeford,North Carolina
Just received a 2003 chevy blazer ls
2003 chevy blazer ls that cranks but wont start. Just got out delivered on Sunday and really haven't gotten a chance to get into it yet but had looked over it yesterday. Any suggestions on what could possibly be wrong. I haven't check the fuel pressure yet to see if it's getting the proper pressure.
Last edited by 2001_chevy_blazer_owner; Nov 7, 2017 at 01:53 PM.
Beginning Member
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 24
From: Corpus Christi, Texas
2003 chevy blazer ls that cranks but wont start. Just got out delivered on Sunday and really haven't gotten a chance to get into it yet but had looked over it yesterday. Any suggestions on what could possibly be wrong. I haven't check the fuel pressure yet to see if it's getting the proper pressure.
Thread Starter
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Beginning Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 24
From: Raeford,North Carolina
[QUOTE=trollerguy;682169]Fuel pumps are weak on them. After you get little over 100,000 miles watch out.[/QUOTE
Thanks for the info and this one actually has 154,000 miles on it but as soon as i get my fuel pressure gauges I'll be sure to check that.
Thanks for the info and this one actually has 154,000 miles on it but as soon as i get my fuel pressure gauges I'll be sure to check that.
Super Member
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 1,029
From: South Carolina midlands
Go to Troubleshootmyvehicle.com and look at part 6 ---see link below--- to see 'How to trouble shoot a no start on a GM 4.3L V6'. There is much good info on how to trouble shoot problems on the 4.3L. 6 pages worth!
Part 6 -GM 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L Index of Articles
Part 6 -GM 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L Index of Articles
Last edited by jimspahr@msn.com; Nov 8, 2017 at 01:17 PM.
BF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 4,628
From: Florida
Spark, fuel, air.
Do you have a blue spark jumping a 1" air gap?
Do you have the fuel pressure results at the schrader/fuel rail as outlined in the sticky above? If you don't have a gauge (yet), do you hear the fuel pump energize at key on?. It's in the tank. Do you get pressure at the schrader on the fuel rail (be careful, use a rag and glasses). No pressure then you have a problem. Some pressure then you don't know yet.
Do you have any codes?
George
Do you have a blue spark jumping a 1" air gap?
Do you have the fuel pressure results at the schrader/fuel rail as outlined in the sticky above? If you don't have a gauge (yet), do you hear the fuel pump energize at key on?. It's in the tank. Do you get pressure at the schrader on the fuel rail (be careful, use a rag and glasses). No pressure then you have a problem. Some pressure then you don't know yet.
Do you have any codes?
George
Last edited by GeorgeLG; Nov 8, 2017 at 05:45 PM.
Thread Starter
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Beginning Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 24
From: Raeford,North Carolina
Spark, fuel, air.
Do you have a blue spark jumping a 1" air gap?
Do you have the fuel pressure results at the schrader/fuel rail as outlined in the sticky above? If you don't have a gauge (yet), do you hear the fuel pump energize at key on?. It's in the tank. Do you get pressure at the schrader on the fuel rail (be careful, use a rag and glasses). No pressure then you have a problem. Some pressure then you don't know yet.
Do you have any codes?
George
Do you have a blue spark jumping a 1" air gap?
Do you have the fuel pressure results at the schrader/fuel rail as outlined in the sticky above? If you don't have a gauge (yet), do you hear the fuel pump energize at key on?. It's in the tank. Do you get pressure at the schrader on the fuel rail (be careful, use a rag and glasses). No pressure then you have a problem. Some pressure then you don't know yet.
Do you have any codes?
George
I did get my tools to check the fuel pressure and it showed about 60 to 65 and then dropped to about 55 after a minute or 2. I checked 2 of the spark plugs coils and no spark to either and none to the ICM. I noticed that one of the bolts on the DC was missing and the rotor had chopped into the DC wall. I'm determined to get the blaze on the highway. So each chase I get to work on her is what I intended to do. Also when I received it the battery was completely dead so I don't have any codes.
BF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 4,628
From: Florida
Do you have 1" of blue spark at the ignition coil output during cranking?
If not do you low voltage pulses on the primary between the ICM and the coil during cranking?
If not, do you have 12V at the ICM input and the coil primary input during cranking and run?
George
If not do you low voltage pulses on the primary between the ICM and the coil during cranking?
If not, do you have 12V at the ICM input and the coil primary input during cranking and run?
George
Starting Member
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 216
From: Mt Vernon/Fort Hunt, Virginia
Quote : "I noticed that one of the bolts on the DC was missing and the rotor had chopped into the DC wall."
I just replaced the timing chain on my 200,000 mile mule. I had broken down due to losing one of the rotor screws, it ended up contacting the cap terminals violently. I replaced both, crank ,no start. Had a mechanic double check me and agreed a timing chain was most likely cause. replaced chain and gears, no start !? The rotor was not lined up properly ! (less than 180 degrees off) The rotor housing is pressed on to the distributor shaft, mine had moved, it was pointing to #5 terminal at TDC. It can rotate, if forced by hand, independent of the shaft & gear. (press fit loose) New distributor on the way
I just replaced the timing chain on my 200,000 mile mule. I had broken down due to losing one of the rotor screws, it ended up contacting the cap terminals violently. I replaced both, crank ,no start. Had a mechanic double check me and agreed a timing chain was most likely cause. replaced chain and gears, no start !? The rotor was not lined up properly ! (less than 180 degrees off) The rotor housing is pressed on to the distributor shaft, mine had moved, it was pointing to #5 terminal at TDC. It can rotate, if forced by hand, independent of the shaft & gear. (press fit loose) New distributor on the way
Last edited by 2004 Blazer; Nov 14, 2017 at 07:41 PM. Reason: speling
Thread Starter
|
Beginning Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 24
From: Raeford,North Carolina
Quote : "I noticed that one of the bolts on the DC was missing and the rotor had chopped into the DC wall."
I just replaced the timing chain on my 200,000 mile mule. I had broken down due to losing one of the rotor screws, it ended up contacting the cap terminals violently. I replaced both, crank ,no start. Had a mechanic double check me and agreed a timing chain was most likely cause. replaced chain and gears, no start !? The rotor was not lined up properly ! (less than 180 degrees off) The rotor housing is pressed on to the distributor shaft, mine had moved, it was pointing to #5 terminal at TDC. It can rotate, if forced by hand, independent of the shaft & gear. (press fit loose) New distributor on the way
I just replaced the timing chain on my 200,000 mile mule. I had broken down due to losing one of the rotor screws, it ended up contacting the cap terminals violently. I replaced both, crank ,no start. Had a mechanic double check me and agreed a timing chain was most likely cause. replaced chain and gears, no start !? The rotor was not lined up properly ! (less than 180 degrees off) The rotor housing is pressed on to the distributor shaft, mine had moved, it was pointing to #5 terminal at TDC. It can rotate, if forced by hand, independent of the shaft & gear. (press fit loose) New distributor on the way