OK, I've replaced the lower ignition switch with a new one. The no start, goofy instrument lights, battery dead issue is still here. When I replaced the latter, I noticed that the key still got "hung up" a bit and that the key would have to be ejected using the "screwdriver through the bottom of the column" trick. I want to replace the tumblers now to see if that will make this &&@%^%^ truck start and run for more that a week. The local dealer has a lock set with no key and insists that its the only way they sell them. I see that rock auto and other sells the tumblers with the keys. Any idea if A: I'm on the right track and B: if there is a way to get a new lock cylinder with the keys and when installed this will work any better?

2003 blazer BTW.

 

It almost sounds like the ignition switch is one tooth off.. Did you try advancing the ignition switch one tooth forward or back and see how it affects things?

 

That may also be it. I replaced the lower ignition switch and at first I had the switch off at least one gear because it would not go into the crank position. diddled with it and got it to start, turn off, restart, but the key switch was still a bit " notchy" and would still hang up. I got it working well enough to leave (I thought) and a week or so later, it started blinking instrument lights and then failed to start (pass lock?). I drove three plus hours to work on it and when I got there, it started up perfectly (had been sitting for a few weeks) and ran great. Drove it around filled it with gas, restarted it several times etc. A few days later, kid tries to start it, all the lights in the panel come on and it goes dead.. nothing would work. Now I am headed back up there tomorrow to rip it all apart again and or install a new key cylinder for the tune of around $100 bucks from the stealership.. ugh! I am open to suggestions as I also have a stupid rat terrier in the darned doggy hospital costing me hundreds!

 

It was worth mentioning.

Have you tried using some dry lock lubricant in the lock cylinder?

 

i'll give that a shot, but im still puzzled as to the "on again off again" nature of this problem.

 

OK, drove the 3+ hours up to the truck this morning. Got to the truck and before doing anything, I open the hood and checked the battery cables.. the positive cable was loose and had gigantic blue green boogers on it . I removed the cable and wire brushed the crap out of it and sprayed it with battery cleaner,, scrubbed it some more and put it back together.. tightened the cable till it was TIGHT and it started like a champ!!

Now... the other problem that the kid complained about reared its ugly head -

I started the truck and the idle seemed like it was all over the place.. I got the truck moved to his dorm and when I pulled into the space the idle still wasn't much good. When I placed the truck in park, it died. Started but still had a goofy idle, turned on A/C lights etc, still really weird idle, when placed in gear, it dies or comes really close to it. I got the truck backed out of the space using the "two foot cha cha" between brakes and the gas and headed down the street. As soon as I got to the first stop sign, it was running great and the idle problem was gone, couldn't make it come back.

I drove to the local auto zone and had them look for codes... there are none?!!? I made sure that everything was tightened, tossed in some injector cleaner and a new air filter just for luck. I parked the truck (left the wire brush and cleaners) hid the key and drove the 3 hours home.. ugh.

Any idea why the idle would do this and then fix its self??!!

 

Could be a sticky IAC valve...

As far as your dash issues... It still sounds like there is ignition switch problems. Either that or there is wiring damage somewhere.