So I fixed my idle problem by replacing the distributor cap, but now my truck has no power, it's making a "popping" sound and I can smell fuel in the cab. There is also a steady "ticking" sound coming from the engine, about twice a second. Any ideas? None of the part stores have a code reader that will work with my truck, and I don't have the time/money to go and buy one. I also checked and there's no leaks. It's a 95 4 door Blazer LT with the 4.3 liter. Any ideas?

 

Double and triple check the connections of the plug wires. Be sure to use a little dielectric grease on them.

 

Sounds like a misfire to me. You could pull the plugs and see which one is wet maybe.

 

Well I checked 4 of my plugs and 2 of the boots where slightly disconnected, so tomorrow when it's light out and I'm not half asleep I'll check the other one's I couldn't see. But I can't smell fuel anymore, yay. I really wish I had smaller hands, because even pulling the distributor cap was a pain in the ***, never mind doing the starter (twice in a year) and the water pump. I'm just praying that my distributor itself is not the issue, can foresee many headaches and lot's of swearing. One other thing, when I was screwing the cap back on, I think I overtightened the one screw and the one side (I think) and the ring on the distributor that catches the screw broke off, so only one screw is holding it down. I put 5 pieces of electrical tape to hold the other side down. Am I screwed? Thanks for your help.

 

Well I pulled all my plugs, none of them were wet. Now my truck won't even start up. I did my plugs one at a time, so I'm 100% sure the wires are correct. At this point I'm thinking it's the distributor? Or maybe the ICM? I've been looking for a code reader for my truck, it's OBD 1 with the computer underneath the hood passenger side. I phoned the part store and a code reader is $420. Anyone know where I can get a cheaper one?

 

I'm wondering if the broken distributor screw ring is allowing the cap to 'bounce' slightly and prevent complete spark transference?

 

Yeah, maybe. I'm going to get someone to hold it down or maybe find a C clamp. Another question, what is the black thing on top of the upper manifold that sits under the plastic Vortec logo? Just curious.

 

Your intake layout is different to mine, so I'm not certain what you're referring to. Got a pic?

 

I will bet the ticking sound is a plug wire that is not seated at the plug or at the cap. The spark will jump the gap and make a ticking sound. The popping sound may be coming from the intake manifold if you got any of the plug wires mixed up at the cap. (you said you were sure you did not mix them up at the plugs)
You need to get the dist. cap screw replaced. Take the cap off and if you are lucky there is enough of the screw above the surface that you can grab it with pliers and remove it. If it is broken off flush it should not be tight unless you cross threaded it. Try using a sharp ice pick to unscrew it until you can grab it with pliers. You need to lay over the engind so your head is far enough back to see what you are doing.
Make sure the cap and rotor were not damaged if the cap was moving around the rotor may have hit the terminals in the cap.

 

Sorry I should of been more descriptive, it's more of a knock then a tick and it sounds like it's coming from under the manifold or one of the valve covers. I'm going to take the cap off later and see if the rotors even turning.
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OK, so the rotor is spinning. I checked for spark by doing the arc method, and I got arc on 2 of them and ended up getting shocked even holding the wire 6 inches from the boot with no arc. So I'm going to go get some new wires tomorrow. Any other ideas? I put a C clamp on the one side of the cap, so there's a tight seal there now. Could it still be the distributor?

So is this my ICM?

http://s600.photobucket.com/albums/tt86/j_luchinski/

And if it is would my local parts store be able to test it?