Leaf Spring Brand suggestions
#21
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My Jimmy tilts slightly to the right in the rear and I've been wondering if it's the springs. Lots of good info here. I'll have to check my codes. Seems like I learned years ago that it has the heavier towing or maybe off road package, and it's always ridden like a wagon, so I'm really curious if it has the 1400 lb springs. I'll let you know what I find. 😁
#24
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My Jimmy tilts slightly to the right in the rear and I've been wondering if it's the springs. Lots of good info here. I'll have to check my codes. Seems like I learned years ago that it has the heavier towing or maybe off road package, and it's always ridden like a wagon, so I'm really curious if it has the 1400 lb springs. I'll let you know what I find. 😁
If you are sagging on one side in the rear, then it is easy to imagine that you have a bad spring. Perhaps one of the leaves broke? You'll of course want to replace the springs as a pair to make sure the ride height and spring-rates are the same. After ~20 years, I'm sure the leaf springs in many of our Blazers are sagging.
#25
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So when exactly is snow season going to be over here in Idaho? Just asking so I have an idea when I can get back to work on the purple jimmy project lol.. But seriously can't wait for your write up on this project.
#26
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I'll be sure to take pictures and take notes. I'm thinking I'll buy myself an angle grinder to cut off the old mounting bolts since I have all new replacements anyway. That should make the removal much easier. Interestingly, although the new replacement bolts are the proper grade, I was surprised that the shackle bolts did not use the pinched nut retention method but rather Nylok style nuts. I'll likely still install them with Loctite anyway. The new u-bolts also did not come with any retention system built into the nuts. The u-bolts and the nuts are of a fine thread with the nuts being about 2x taller than normal nuts.
#27
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You can always squeeze the nuts in a vise if you prefer those but nylocks should by fine on their own. And I have never seen any kind of retention used on U-bolts. My understanding is that they are torque to yield (TTY) and shouldn't be reused.
#28
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Oh good. I'm glad that this info might help others. If you can, also list the torsion bar RPOs that go with your overall suspension RPO. As you noticed, I was trying to create a cross-reference for these.
If you are sagging on one side in the rear, then it is easy to imagine that you have a bad spring. Perhaps one of the leaves broke? You'll of course want to replace the springs as a pair to make sure the ride height and spring-rates are the same. After ~20 years, I'm sure the leaf springs in many of our Blazers are sagging.
If you are sagging on one side in the rear, then it is easy to imagine that you have a bad spring. Perhaps one of the leaves broke? You'll of course want to replace the springs as a pair to make sure the ride height and spring-rates are the same. After ~20 years, I'm sure the leaf springs in many of our Blazers are sagging.
#29
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However, to answer your question, for 4wd Blazers, the RPOs for the different torsion bars I have found are 6WH/7WH, 6WJ/7WJ, 6WK/7WK. The overall suspension RPOs I've found are ZW7, ZQ1, Z85, ZM6. I'm pretty confident of most of my cross-referencing but I haven't been able to confirm that the ZW7 and ZQ1 are basically the same except for the self-leveling shocks on the rear that come with the ZW7.
I only have a few vehicles listed so far. A surprising result so far is that for the ZR2, the front t-bars have a very high rating but the rear springs have a low rating. This might because it is a 2door and not a 4door body.
I've attached what I've been able to create so far.
#30
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I got the springs for my 2001 ZR2 from General Spring as they are local to me. I picked them up to save shipping. Was a bit more difficult to install as I changed the bushings top and bottom. Happy with them and they fixed the Carolina squat the truck had