yupp looks like thats exactly what I need. I went to advanced auto parts and they sold me a tool that looked like it would work. tried it out, didnt quite fit, read the back and saw it was for fords, dodges and not chevys. looks like i'll be picking up something like this.

thank you all for your help

 

Usually they have it in the loan a tool section. There are alternatives to using the tool which you might find in a search here. I just put a socket wrench on one of the four pulley bolts and a big adjustable on the fan nut then tapped it with a rubber mallet four times and it came free. Another method is to partially remove a couple of the screws so that they're sticking out a bit then using a prybar or something to keep it from turning.

 

Best and easiest, works every time.

 

mine was so tight we had to use a chain wrench and two people to get it off... not fun, but woked

 

No studs/nuts on this set up. The fan clutch threads directly onto the water pump. Special wrench set breaks it loose, then unscrew it.

 

MY problem was similar on my '96 LS 4.3L V6. I couldn't tell where the damn leak was! Even with a flashlight and mirror I was only able to discern that it was either a pump gasket or the dreaded Intake Manifold Gasket. The pump outlet on the driver's side just about butts right up against that big honking billet aluminum A/C compressor and Power Steering pump bracket and you can't see the outside edge.

Anyway I went ahead and picked up a remanufactured pump at the parts store and started wrenching. Thankfully, it was the water pump gasket. The bolts didn't feel nearly tight enough when I backed them out. I suspect the lack of tightness is what allowed the gasket to blow out.

BTW: The weep hole on these pumps is on the top. I'm miffed as to why so many people talk about getting under the vehicle to look at the weep hole. Coolant coming out here indicates a blown shaft seal, but doesn't tell you anything about the pump to block mating.

I also found the fan removal to be the most difficult part of the job. Thankfully I had both a large adjustable wrench and a long pry-bar to wedge in between the pulley bolts and keep it from turning. I left the serpentine belt on but the pulley just kept slipping within the belt. You can't get replacements for those pulleys and they seem to be the highest wear pulley of all!

Water pump bolts are supposed to be torqued to 33ft lbs. I probably should have used loctite instead of thread sealant AND I'm planning to recheck those bolts later to make sure that they're still tight.

I used some super high-tac gasket goop to adhere the gaskets to the pump and make sure that they stayed in place while mounting the pump. I think that using a couple of 5 or 6" long 3/8 bolts in the top holes just to hang the pump in position and get it lined up would have made things easier, but it wasn't that bad.

 

I have a similar green leaking problem and already had head gaskets changed on my 94 Blazer. The leak is dripping just behind right front tire underneath. Is that where the water pump or heater core is? No leakage inside car. Its at the local garage center waiting for their prognosis. Any idea on what this will cost?

 

Sounds like the overflow hose from the expansion tank is spewing out onto the ground. The runs down behind the right front wheel & suspension arms. I've no idea what would be causing it except for overfilling. Sometimes the cure is easy & cheap like replacing thermostat and rad cap. Have you ever replaced the radiator? My experience with rads is that after 10 yrs, you should expect failure.

 

Thanks for your help. The mechanic diagnosed and resolved the source of my leaking antifreeze. The hose running to the heater core was loose and only needed a tightening. What a break. Happy holidays!

 

That was nice a cheap fix you got off extemely lucky