Lift Point
#1
Lift Point
Recently got my first floor jack and have no idea where to use it on the blazer, or any other car for that mater. I've always used the jack that came with the car (the scissor one with the ball thing on the top) that went into the hole in the frame by the tires. I put the new jack there and it is barley large enough to get a grip at the spot. So I tried lifting just on the frame beam in general a little closer to the tire, but I feel that this isn't quite right as it seems like the jack barely gets any grip there. The point on the jack that lifts seems very tiny, bout the size of a flat baseball (weird analogy I know )
I know I've seen my friend use his to lift the entire front end of a car up at once but I have no idea where or if mine can do it. The jack is rated for 2.5 Tons of weight and I would be putting the car on stands once lifted.
I know I've seen my friend use his to lift the entire front end of a car up at once but I have no idea where or if mine can do it. The jack is rated for 2.5 Tons of weight and I would be putting the car on stands once lifted.
#2
If I want to lift with the weight on the suspension I go under the lower control arm where the shock connects.
If I want the weight off the suspension I go to the frame.
To lift the entire rear end I go under the diff or tow hitch (if equipped)
Side note.....get yourself a hockey puck, put it in the jack's lift cup It reduces the sliding and shifting
If I want the weight off the suspension I go to the frame.
To lift the entire rear end I go under the diff or tow hitch (if equipped)
Side note.....get yourself a hockey puck, put it in the jack's lift cup It reduces the sliding and shifting
#4
Don't forget jack stands and wheel blocks!
And get at least one good pair of jack stands and something to block your tires. Those are cheap insurance. Once up, I also rock the vehicle a bit to make sure it is all steady and safe.
I love the hockey puck idea. I also have a couple hydraulic bottle jacks that are super useful. A nice thing about them is that you can put blocks of wood under them to raise them up a bit as needed.
I love the hockey puck idea. I also have a couple hydraulic bottle jacks that are super useful. A nice thing about them is that you can put blocks of wood under them to raise them up a bit as needed.
#5
Manual should say where the factory intended it to be lifted.
For a generic answer.
DO'S
Where the OEM jack lifts is normally also o.k. for a floor jack.
If you have some lowered CRX or such you may need a 2" or 3" board and ramp it on one side so you can drive up to that before jacking, else the jack may not fit under the car.
Blazers with frames normally have a hole in the underside of the floor where the OEM jack inserts it's round top. Good place to lift.
4x4's like the Blazers like to be lifted on the frame or under suspension mounts.
As stated previously. Make sure the car/truck cannot move!
Clean the area before jacking. Garage floor or else. The jack needs to be able to roll when lifting. It will tend to roll towards the car.
Once lifted consider that the car now rests as an incline on the jack. Make sure it cannot slide off.
Position the jack in a way that the lever will not get into the way of mirrors or other stuff and is not in your work area.
Make sure you know what the uppermost (closest to the car) position of your lever is. Many have dented a door or bumper while pumping or broken a mirror.
When lifted and you work underneath I normally put either one wheel under the suspension of the lifted corner or a big block of wood. Mind you! That is last resort if the jack should break or just blow an o-ring in order not to get caught under the car.
DONT'S
Never lift on sheetmetal, except the manual says so!
Check it's not rusted through where you want to lift!
Never use a doubtful, sagging or otherwise damaged jack!
Never lift under engine, gear or drivetrain components, except it is stated to do so in the manual!
For a generic answer.
DO'S
Where the OEM jack lifts is normally also o.k. for a floor jack.
If you have some lowered CRX or such you may need a 2" or 3" board and ramp it on one side so you can drive up to that before jacking, else the jack may not fit under the car.
Blazers with frames normally have a hole in the underside of the floor where the OEM jack inserts it's round top. Good place to lift.
4x4's like the Blazers like to be lifted on the frame or under suspension mounts.
As stated previously. Make sure the car/truck cannot move!
Clean the area before jacking. Garage floor or else. The jack needs to be able to roll when lifting. It will tend to roll towards the car.
Once lifted consider that the car now rests as an incline on the jack. Make sure it cannot slide off.
Position the jack in a way that the lever will not get into the way of mirrors or other stuff and is not in your work area.
Make sure you know what the uppermost (closest to the car) position of your lever is. Many have dented a door or bumper while pumping or broken a mirror.
When lifted and you work underneath I normally put either one wheel under the suspension of the lifted corner or a big block of wood. Mind you! That is last resort if the jack should break or just blow an o-ring in order not to get caught under the car.
DONT'S
Never lift on sheetmetal, except the manual says so!
Check it's not rusted through where you want to lift!
Never use a doubtful, sagging or otherwise damaged jack!
Never lift under engine, gear or drivetrain components, except it is stated to do so in the manual!
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vankuen
2nd Generation S-series (1995-2005) Tech
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11-17-2007 12:54 AM