replacing my bypass valve now. couldn't get to the bolt to loosen the lines. figured if i took bolts out of the adapter it would drop down enough to get the lines loose. no luck. do you have to remove the front axle???? please help

 

Nope, long, (maybe 24") 3/8" drive extension with a swivel socket gets right on it. A universal and a socket will work, but a swivel socket is easier. Sneak it right along the top of the oil pan, under the motor mount. Ratchet will end up near the serpentine belt.


13mm, 3/8" drive, looks like this:

 

Was sitting at light today and noticed my oil pressure was at zero (or what appeared to be), CHECK GAGES light came on. Once I started moving the light went out and oil pressure came up to about 20psi.


Whats the best fix to this? I'm assuming the regulating valve..what is it called on RockAuto?


Somebody said to check the oil pressure sender? Could this be a fix too? Where is it?

 

Best to check it with a mechanical oil pressure gauge. Most auto parts stores rent them. Remove the oil pressure sending unit, next to distributor, and screw in the gauge. Check pressure with the engine at operating temp, at idle, and 1500 rpm. Post your results.

 

Don't forget the Rod bearings...if worn or damaged...pressure will drop. Different car but the same result. I had a 1967 GTO (Sure wish I still had that one) any how I pick it up off of this guy who he had replace the org 389 with a 350 and lent the car out and they ran it low on oil and it stop running...I paid I think a 100 bucks for it. And went right after the oil pump..start it up had great pressure drove it to work (20 miles) everything okay. Coming home from work and the day got hotter, before I got home the oil pressure drop to like 0...replace the pump, did the same thing...took the pump back to the parts store...now they are kinda tick off, but gave me another one and also sent a mech to my house to make sure I was putting it in correctly. I was and the same thing happen again...So I park it, this guy up the street offer me a dirt bike for the car, I took it..he replace the rod bearings and it ran fine, good oil pressure all the time..He said he was lucky the crank wasn't scar...My lose he gain..I was in my 20's young and dumb..then there is the time about the 1956 Chevy Conv I had...okay enough of that..but check the rod bearings the crank...

 

Did anyone fix this problem I have a 97 blazer doing the same thing

 

Why not start a new thread and put all the detailed information that you have there. Vehicle history, problem history, symptoms, what you or others have done. We will try to help you.

 

Because I dont know how to and plus im having the same issues you guys are or had..

 

OK then, go ahead and blindly replace one or two or all three of the oil bypass valves. In a 4WD, two go in the remote oil filter adapter and one goes in the engine block. Two are the same valve and one is slightly different pressure. If you have a 2WD with block mounted filter, you only have one in the engine block, but the principle of operation is the same.

FYI these are all pressure differential valves that open well under 20 psi differential, and they only open if a restriction is present in the oil filter or oil cooler (to bypass the resticted area and still provide oil to the engine), so they really don't have a chance of raising your oil pressure. That is controlled by the oil pump, the viscosity of the oil, oil clearances in the engine, and if too high the oil pressure relief spring in the oil pump.

https://blazerforum.com/forum/2nd-ge...ves-4wd-90057/

 

I deleted my oil cooler lines and bought the threaded tube so I have the oil filter straight back on the block .so the part your talking about is under the oil filter ? My Blazer is doing the same thing .on startup 50lbs after 5 mins 20 0 at idek no noises yet confirmed oil pressure gauge is correct ( new sensor and hooked up mechanical as well ) Ty you in advance I eagerly await your answer and pray this is the problem . Godspeed