Fuel spider can stay on the intake if you think it must - makes it difficult to clean up and scrape. Don't think there are any O-rings but I already had the upgrade spider when I bought my vehicle. Just get some head bolt Teflon sealer in a small applicator tube like permatex at the local parts store and that will be fine. Just don't use any kind of thread locker.

 

I am currently doing mine. I have done it before to my last Blazer, and this one is a real PITA! Make sure you have a 10mm elbow wrench for the distributor. You will regret it if you dont. Mine was FULL of junk. So while I am here, Can I ask a few questions?

1. While I have it apart, should I spring for the MPFI?
2. It seems one side in the far back right is clogged up. It has hardened, what is the best way to get this junk out? If some falls in will it hurt anything?
3. I want to clean out the throttle body real good, but I know there is a certain kind of cleaner I should use, can someone tell me, please?

I am sure there is more to come, I called it quits after I got the intake off and cleaned things up a bit. Will start again tomorrow. I did not have antifreeze in the oil, which is good, but the gaskets were TOAST!

 

You want to get the upgraded metal felpro gasket kit Fel-Pro MS 98002 T, not the OEM replacement felpro ms95817... I did and would upgrade the spider if you have the means while everything is torn apart.

 

One last thing. What size tap should I get? Is the bolt thread I mentioned for the others correct?

 

Is this a good reference?

 

It gives you the general idea, you don't want to follow it verbatim though. There are a ton of threads in the forum about how do do it, what size bolts, taps, torque sequence etc... I think Capt Hook stated the tap size in a thread of mine from a few years ago. Search for that if you don't want to just blindly stroll through intake manifold threads.

 

Very detailed and somewhat useful, nice photos BUT makes the job seem much more difficult than it really is. Problems I have with it are as follows:

• Do not use RTV on intake sealing surface of Felpro gaskets. They have any necessary sealer printed on them.
• Do use DexCool. Don't mix with Green. Do keep your radiator full. Change it every 6 years. Note that GM still uses Dexcool in new vehicles. If it was truly the cause of a successful class-action lawsuit, then why is it still around? The gasket material was the problem. Why it's important to use the good Felpro gaskets with metal backing and rubber sealing surface - not plastic like original.
• Do not use any power tools, sandpaper, sanding pads, or wire brushes to clean gasket surfaces. This is a good way to get pieces of wire or grit in your engine. Use razor blades or a putty knife dressed to a razor edge with a file and elbow grease (I've used the same putty knife for 20 years). GM even issued a TSB about this a while back as the practice was so commonplace.
• Do not EVER use thread locker on intake bolts - use Teflon head bolt sealer.
• Do run a tap through the bolt holes and wire brush the bolt threads.
• Do use an inch-pound torque wrench (not the very bottom of a larger torque wrench's range). Torque wrenches are not nearly as accurate at their operational extremes.

 

I wasn't going to use sandpaper, certainly wasn't going to use a power tool. Razor scraper, acetone and clean rag.

As for the RTV, I was only going to use the black RTV at the front and back, putting some on that little hatch on both ends of the gaskets.

Going to get an inch pound torque wrench today. I already have one, but it only goes down to 120 inch pounds.

And I figure, since the fuel pressure will need to be relieved for this anyway, I might as well replace the fuel filter too.

But the gasket set I bought (poor as hell right now) is the Fel-Pro MS95817. If that'll last long enough, I can get the other set later on.

 

Once you get done with this you will not want to do it again. As far as RTV, just follow Felpro instructions. Best wishes for a successful repair.

 

I have a coolant leak as well. I did the water pump 2 years ago thinking that was the culprit, but it still leaked. Got frustrated and just parked it for 2 years (not my primary vehicle).

I finally got around to dealing with the intake gasket and got it torn apart yesterday. I followed a combination of the guide Bravada linked to and a text only write up from this forum.

I agree with Lesmyer's notes on the illustrated guide and would add that the alternator can be left on as well. I also was able to get away with leaving the power steering bolt under the exhaust manifold alone, and just pull the bracket forward a little with the other fasteners removed.

Here are a couple of pics of what mine looks like with the manifold removed.





Those gaskets have definitely seen better days. My Blazer is a 2000 with only 98k on it. Leaving it sitting for 2 years in a field under a tree didn't do anything good for the rest of the vehicle, but it fired right up after jump starting it. Both rear brake calibers are seized (you can't turn the rear wheels by hand when raised off the ground). And this was after I went for a quick 5 mile trek around the neighborhood. But I'll deal with that after getting the engine back together.

I used a shop vac to suck out all the junk that fell down into the valley when I pulled the intake.

What is this updated "fuel spider" you guys are talking about. Is the one from 2000 that GM put on my Blazer an inferior design to the current one?