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MAF Sensor

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Old 04-07-2016, 09:26 PM
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Default MAF Sensor

TO restate it the MAF sensor has set a few codes and got to looking it over real close and found a crack in the rubber seal so went to discount gm parts and bought the original seal.Now lets see don't expect to see any more codes.
 

Last edited by johnnylovsey; 04-08-2016 at 08:10 PM.
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Old 04-17-2016, 06:07 PM
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Default In reference to the MAF Sensor

This is twice now since replacing the Maf Sensor and a new grommet between the air box and the MAF sensor itself.On days 80 degrees or so after driving the car and shutting it off the restart sets a code for the Maf sensor checked the engine while running and the Ect says its only 194 but I leaned my elbow against the air box and it was quite hot even when running the temp on the scanner said 194 degrees.But my thought isn't there supposed to be a temp diverter sleeve that goes on the upper hose and rides between the air box and the upper hose what do you think guys could that cause it to trip the Maf sensor and then if two or three ignitions it resets itself Mil to.And Captain some one needs to reset my post,s it looks like there copy button got stuck on my post.You got my permision to clean up so I can start new and keep it simple from here on.
 

Last edited by johnnylovsey; 04-19-2016 at 01:31 PM.
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Old 04-17-2016, 07:43 PM
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IAT measures the temperature of the inlet air as it exits the MAF sensor. It should only be a few degrees above ambient temperature when the engine is at idle. Let the vehicle set for 10 to 12 hours without running. Turn the ignition to the RUN position, (don't start the engine) and check IAT, ECT, TFT, & your local ambient temperature. Post all 4 temps. They should all be within a couple of degrees of each other.
 
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Old 04-18-2016, 04:00 PM
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IAT measures the temperature of the inlet air as it exits the MAF sensor. It should only be a few degrees above ambient temperature when the engine is at idle. Let the vehicle set for 10 to 12 hours without running. Turn the ignition to the RUN position, (don't start the engine) and check IAT, ECT, TFT, & your local ambient temperature. Post all 4 temps. They should all be within a couple of degrees of each other.[/QUOTE]
Ok Captain got the readings you wanted key on not started first time today.
1 Local air temp 88 Deg Fahrenheit
2 Iat 87 Deg F
3 Ect 66 Deg F
4 Tft 68 Deg F
Captain the only time this sets a code is after shutting down the engine then restart it in the 80 Deg F
then after three ignition cycles it resets itself shuts off the mil could that just be the high temp in the engine department.You know I forget the name of that Maf sensor bought it at O'rileys auto parts $120.00 but kept my origanal that never had a problem when doing the intake gaskets I accidently turned on the ignition and that is the only reason it set a code more then likley still at my garage in the box from the new one if this keeps tripping the mil I might just have to replace the new auto part with the origanal.P/s Captain Went to cosco the mil was off did my shopping and loaded the car as soon as I started it the outside temp had climed to 97 degrees but the temp gauge read rite at 194 and the stat is a 195 stant.The mill came on and checked again its a maf sensor code and its the second brand new one got to looking down by the air box because thought there used to be a heat sleeve that slid over the upper radiator hose and sure enough I have pulled the air box so many times that it slipped down so when the engine cools I will slip it back up to between the air box and the upper hose and if that don't do it will be putting back the original part and no more after market parts.But we will see after it cools and I move up that shield it just may keep enough heat off that air box from the upper hose with the shield the way it was designed to do what it is supposed to.But it also was designed to run AC DELCO Parts as well not Orileys after market ones.
 

Last edited by johnnylovsey; 04-18-2016 at 08:35 PM.
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Old 04-18-2016, 04:23 PM
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Default Paint Sprayer Smoker

I finally got time to finish that project I was working on will try again to post the pic,s to this article.Captain is there a way to drop a pic of my invention sure you would like it.
 
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Old 04-19-2016, 07:51 PM
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Default The Maf sensor

Well Captain when cold it seemed to be working correct and I got that sleeve and pulled it up to were it is supposed to be on the hose and my opinion is that isn't much of a heat deflector I think its to keep the air box from rubbing a hole in the hose,After going to lowes to shop today after the cold readings put up for you.I came back same thing Mil on and the MAF Sensor set it so when I got home I parked the car went in got the tech II scanner and did a warm reading after driving about 10 miles round trip.Hooked up the tech II started the car first then turned on the tech II scanner here are my warm readings.
Outside temp 85 deg,F
IAC 154 Deg,F
ECT 195 Deg,F
TFT 172 Deg,F
What do you think captain wrong Maf for the Blazer I think like I said will put back the original and see if there is a difference I wasn't never bad and I cleaned it up with MAF Sensor cleaner but with all the other parts I was replacing at that time the purge Valve the Vent Valve The map sensor and I think that was it at that time just wanted to know for sure nothing was causing my evap not to complete.So Captain there is also a brand new air cleaner and that shorty exstention doesn't quite line up but you said that was normal for the blazer.You know I did remove that box but it screws down in all four corners and there isn't much room for errour.
 
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Old 04-19-2016, 09:02 PM
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In your first test, (stone cold), the ECT & TFT assumed overnight ambient temperature, ~ 67F. IAT at 87F is out of line. Even with ambient temperature at 88F, the IAT should still be within a couple of degrees of the other two sensors. Just for grins, replace the IAT sensor and re test all 4 again stone cold, just like you did the first time. BTW, where/how did you get the ambient temperature reading?

TFT at 172F, you might want to consider a transmission cooler Dropping it down 20 degrees will do wonders for longevity.
 

Last edited by Captain Hook; 04-19-2016 at 09:16 PM.
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Old 04-20-2016, 03:29 PM
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Default IAT Sensor

Ok Captain I ordered it went to that new site cheapest gm parts.They wanted $17.00 for the original part and the auto parts wanted $60.00 for a replica.But while awaiting shipping I took the air box apart and pulled the head light to see how well it lined up it was in line about half on with the hole and half not but noticed a small like 1/8 hole at the bottom of the air box below the filter more then likely a drain hole over the week end while at my garage I found one of those little rubber plugs just the rite size for that hole that I didn't know about until now.I don't suppose a little hole like that would do anything but just because I filled it with silicone for now untill I get the new IAT but man what a price difference the gm dealer wants $35.80 for it.
 

Last edited by johnnylovsey; 04-21-2016 at 12:27 AM.
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Old 04-20-2016, 04:40 PM
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Default Air Box

You know that hole is only like 1/8" but its in the bottom of the air box and it was more then likely that plug I found that fell out of it.But after putting everything back together I plugged in the MAF and pushed in the IAT because it usually pulls out before it unplugs so as I pushed it in it stopped just short of all the way and I had to push and wiggle it to get it to drop all the way in.But after putting it all togeather I went to three stores as I left the MIL was still on but just a few seconds it went off.Got to the first store engine was fully warmed up and it was 81 degre,s outside.Came out started it no MIL drove to another store shut it off shopped came out started it no MIL.I just wonder when tinkering with it four or five dayes before might have pushed in the IAT but not all the way thats the only thing at the moment that even comes close to why the MIL kept coming on after every short drive then usually the next day it cleared itself.So Captain I believe yet again your rite on with your diognosis just wasn't a need to replace the part this time but it seems it was the IAT all alonge.Going to post the same readins for you tommorow and see what the readins are.then better get started on a trans cooler.
 

Last edited by johnnylovsey; 04-21-2016 at 12:47 AM.
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Old 04-21-2016, 02:59 AM
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Default My Smoker

I know I mentioned It before But I am retired and going to be building a Auto smoker for much less then the commercial ones they work off the car battery and use baby oil for a smoker fluid and you can ad automotive dye to it if the leak is to small to locate as was mine so the dye travels through the smoke to the leak site and stains it clearly were the leak is so you can replace the hose with the leak problem solved.I have some Picks so far of the first one I made for myself and you aught to see that sucker smoke.But am working on getting in with paypal for ease of transaction.Ant the absolute guarantee of money back if not 100 percent satisfied.They are fused and have a half a pound regulator so they cant hurt anything in the evap system or any ware else I can also install a gauge that makes it possible to just pressurise the system and watch the gauge for a leak.But If you like and have a email I can send the before and after pic,s and then we can talk about weather you allow advertising on your site
 


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