my truck did exactly that bro. replace fuel pump, spider injector assembly, pcv valve and tube, and fuel lines.

good to go.


Im going to replace the idle control valve in a couple weeks as well.

 

ok update, I ran seafoam through the intake again, but let it sit for a bit, and then started it and drove it, parked it, pulled the battery, put the battery back in and started it up, no SES light, not even blinking, the car idles better, but the RPMs drop a bit every 10 - 15 seconds, but not as bad as it did, where it wanted to die, but the engine still vibrates alot when revving up the engine and it shakes badly still like its misfiring, but no blinking or even steady SES

also when driving it seems really hard in the low speeds and getting up to speed, seems like the engine is really dying when going from zero, and uphill.

*edit* its a steady SES light on now, but as far as I can tell it isnt blinking anymore...

*edit again* the car was running fine, but as you drive it it declines and gets worse, to the point to where the car will die and not want to start really, also steering the car will also cause the car to die in some cases

 

No advice?

does the declining have any sign on what the issue could be? if the issue gets worse as driving happens does that indicate anything or remove the PCM from being the problem?

the car is still misfiring, I tried to drive it to an autozone to have the codes read and it dies and was hard to start...

 

The gradual decline is one sign of a partially clogged cat that gets worse and worse as it heats up (expands).

 

this thing just passed california smog not more than a month ago though

I am in iowa now though, with no smog.... is that the only thing it could be?

 

is that the ONLY thing? could it be a stuck lifter that gets worse as I drive it?

does anyone have any things I can do to the car to help?

 

So you're saying there's definite clacking or loud tapping from the engine?Only thing I can think of without any codes read is to check tailpipe for definitive sound/feel of each exhaust cycle. If none or smothered would point to bad cat. Of course you would need to know what it sounds and feels like when it's running normal to tell the difference.
I guess you might ask some stranger who drives a 4.3L if you can check out his or her exhaust.


IMO, given the history here.. if it is a bad cat, you are likely another victim of the 'all gasoline is the same' myth. But that's just me.

 

well after driving it for a little bit when it gets worse I can start hearing a clacking or tapping from the engine, but this does NOT happen until the car starts getting worse

 

would pull off the top half of the intake manifold and visually look for fuel spillage the fuel pressure regulator goes bad regularly on this engine and I have done mine it only takes a small amount of time (less than 2 hrs.) and the FPR is located on the passenger side of the crab(fuel inj. system)If the fuel is puddled the FPR is leaking and it needs a special tool called a safety torx bit to R+R. The tool comes with the new FPR... usually,... if not sears has it for around $5.00 FPR is Notorious for failure!!!.

 

Im afraid youre going to start guess and throwing parts at this thing. You still havent provided the code that is showing.

It could be as simple as bad/damaged wires or a whole mess of stuff.

You need to gather info and do research before you spend anymore money.

Good luck!