Hey everyone. I ordered an MU1733 fuel pump from Amazon and it doesn't appear to have came with a strainer nor the ability to accept one. It came with the electrical connector, rubber collar and float, but no strainer. Is there supposed to be one? It looks genuine and says "AC Delco" on the box and everything on the pump appears high quality as far as I can tell by looking at it (thick gauge wiring, heavy plastic, clean solder, as if it was not built by hand in China). Also I noticed two electrical connectors, but it seems only the 4 prong one is actually connected to anything. Could this still be fake?

I also ordered a D577 ignition coil which RockAuto said was correct, but I got it on Amazon since I was also ordering the pump and transmission and fuel filters with $4 per item overnight shipping. Is that the correct coil? Amazon says no. Also it only came with one nut but 2 bolts. Is that correct? How do I get the old one out?

Thanks

 

See my thread here: https://blazerforum.com/forum/2nd-ge...el-pump-72528/

To make a long story short, ACDelco redesigned the pump, now an external strainer is not needed. Also, the other connector that looks like it's not connected to anything is the fuel pressure sensor.

 

Perfect! I bought the same pump. Looks 100% like your photos. Thanks

Also with the fuel level sensor, does AC Delco make them better than other companies? The gauge part is the reason why I am replacing this Walbro TU429 I have in the tank. Does the ethanol in the gas eat the contacts?


Now I normally never run the tank below 1/2 because I was concerned about the pump overheating from not enough gas around it to cool it, but what about this new design? Did AC Delco improve on it so I can run the tank mostly all the way before having to put more gas in?

 

Had the pump installed today. Lock ring was rusted to hell, so it was replaced. The shop owner replaced the wire harness (old pump used old harness even though it was only 2 years old) but since he has had issues with crimp connectors failing and solder corroding, he used the twist connectors (like household wiring) and used silicone inside. I was a bit concerned at first, but it seems to be working. In fact, I think I had a fuel pressure issue with the previous pump since sometimes it would not start right and with this one I have more power. This truck had somewhat better pickup and it drives alot better. Not because of the transmission fluid change.

Fuel gauge works great and is pretty accurate and stable. Old sender contacts were browned and appeared like they were burned up.

 

I'm no expert and maybe someone will correct me, but this sounds like a bad idea. From what I've read here on the site soldering is the way to go.

 

Id be a little worried too. If he didnt need to use crimps, he shoulda soldered the wires and had some shrink wrap on it.

 

Oh crap. What do I do now? Do I find someone else to solder it? Is it even possible with the tank in the vehicle?

 

take it back to him if you want. make him do it right. its really up to you. I would.

 

I would if he wasn't so biased toward them. He said that since he started using them 5 years ago and filled them with silicone, he hasn't had a failure, but that crimp connectors should be outlawed because the wires pull out. I don't know. I am graduating and starting a job in 2 weeks and I don't want to have a wiring failure. Can the wires be accessed without dropping the tank again? I want to look into having someone else replace the connectors, but I don't want to blow alot of money on labor for that.

 

Yeah, in order to properly solder the connections and wrap them in heat shrink, the tank will have to get dropped. No room to do it with the tank installed. Save some cash and do it yourself, if you have the tools. Since the tank was recently removed, it will probably be easy to get the filler/vent hoses off the tank and the strap bolts loosened.