I too would think it is the ICM. You should remove it and have it tested at your favorite autoparts store. Have them test it at least 10 times in rapid succession to heat it up and simulate the rigors of use/abuse underhood. You should also make sure that it has proper heat sink paste between the ICM and the metal bracket it mounts onto. This bracket acts as a heat sink for the ICM.

You really should pull off the column trim covers and see what is causing the heat buildup in and around the ignition key. This may be pointing at something else. You could have a voltage leak in the column wiring that is messing with things when it heats up. Open it up and look for any signs of damage on the wiring. If necessary, remove any tape and/or loom that is around the various harnesses. All of the power for running the engine goes through the column.

 

i wish i could test the module. but because the contacts are further into the module and are not labeled or colored the auto parts store can not test it. they say1) none ofthe contacts are labeled in any way to see which one is which and2) because the way the module is they can not stick all the connectors into the small space givento even test it. so with testing it seems im SOL. have not had any more problems with key being hot but will check inside column once my back feels better.

but does the ignition control module have any affect on the sending of fuel at all?? one web site says in some vehicles it tells the injectors when to fire so im hoping thats what the problem is.

if this part was 50$ cheaper i would just do it but for 100 bucks or so i dont want to be wrong.

 

Do you have any junk yards close by? You could always yank a connector off of a junker to use at the parts store and I can get you the wiring diagram.

And no, the ICM does not control the injectors. The PCM does that. The ICM only controls spark timing as specified by the PCM.

 

ok so if i can pour fuel into tb and it starts and then diesmy problem is not with icm or can it still be that? and just a reminder this problem is when i turn motor off after being at operating temperature and trying to restart

 

This definitely sounds like a heat soak related problem. You could also try to get a box fan to blow across the top of the motor near the ICM and see if that decreases your time until you can restart it.

If you think it is a fuel related problem, then you may want to run a fuel pressure test. It is very, very rare, but sometimes when heat is very high, the fuel in the fuel rails can boil and cause a no start. Unless your truck is overheating, this should not be the case. You can run a pressure test to verify though.

 

the gas boiling in the fuel rails makes sense. i didnt have a problem with it today for some unknown reason. the last couple days it has been hotter like in the low 100's. today was about 95. i dont understand the temperature though. it seriously used to run about 160 and recently with the problems got to what i now know as the actual operating temperature it should be at. i changed out the thermastat the other day and it runs at operating temp of about 190/210. after the install it was still not wanting to restart when you turned the motor off after getting to operating temps. but today after a little drive and letting it sit in the drive way running it started back up right away. so the cause of the problem is still unknown and whether it will do it again i dont know. i dont have the plastic guard or whatever it is calledunderneath the bottom of the blazer would not having this piece on affect the temperatures under the hood????