i have a 2000 blazer lt rwd 4dr i got the idler off after much struggle and now the replacement moog idler is different in that the bolt that attaches to the centrelink is part of the idler arm and the old one is still on the centrelink on my truck? Not sure if im making sense im a noob at this can any one tell me how the hell to gat that bolt out AGAIN YES I GOT THE IDLER ARM OFF ALREADY

 

they may have gave you one for a 4 wheel drive. they have studs on them,2wd idlers dont. they slide onto the stud on the center link.

 

i thought the same thing and i tracked down the part and it says its good for 4wd and rwd

 

i think the idler arms are 2 pieces on these trucks which they sell seperate. i know for the full size trucks they come like that. you have to take that big bolt off then i usually use a pitman arm puller or smack it off with a hammer to swap it over

 

so it was the wrong idler arm went to autozone got the right one and got it out back together how do i know if i tightened it too much also what else would help out with the highway doin anything over 60 makes me bumb and swerve around alot i havent tested it since i did the idler

 

As for tightening, using the correct torque specs and a torque wrench will assure it's tightened properly, both to the frame and to the center link. If the center link is not level when you tighten the idler arm bolts, you can expect bump steer and tire wear. Vibration and instability can be caused by bad tires, wheels, tire balance, any one or more of all 4 ball joints, pitman arm, tie rod ends, control arm bushings, shocks, and in some cases, incorrect wheel alignment. Might be best to have a qualified tech check it out for you

 

I'm unsure of what bump steer is. If I'm understanding correct any little bump sends you going a different direction and your constantly correcting course. This is tiresome and dangerous on icy roads. I have found if your toe on the alignment is set parallel or a little out this causes over steer. Any little movement, bump or whatever, of the steering wheel and the car quickly turns one direction or the other. Almost as if the power steering is over powering when you first make any slight move from straight. Setting your toe in a little stops this.

 

Lancealot, Your understanding of bump steer is correct It is defined as "a change in vehicle direction over bumps, without changing input to the steering gear". It is most noticeable on a curve. It is caused by the steering linkage not being level. When the idler arm wears, the passenger end of the center link moves up and down, which changes toe. The mounting holes in the idler arm are slightly elongated which allow for leveling the center link. During idler arm replacement, the center link must be leveled before torqueing the mounting bolts. Toe must be checked and adjusted if necessary.

 

well i got the idler arm replaced now but i still have the bump steer going on not as bad but its there also im being told i need an alignment is that something you can do yourself or am i gonna have to watch someone else eat my cake on payday

 

Did you level the center link? Measure from each end of the center link upwards. The end of the upper control arm forward cam bolt is a good reference point on each side. The two measurements need to be within 1/16" of each other.
If you still have bump steer, there's something else wrong, worn or loose part, damaged or bent frame, etc etc. Have shop that specializes in front end work check it out for you. Whenever any suspension or steering linkage part is replaced, adjusted, etc, a wheel alignment is necessary. Alignment is something that you'll need to have a shop do for you. Keep in mind that tires are expensive, so is a good quality wheel alignment There are exceptions, but generally speaking, a tire store is not the place to get a good quality wheel alignment.