Maybe someone can help me here. We started having a missing issue and so we changed the fuel filter and looked at the codes. Said we had a bad crank and cam sensor so we replaced them. Still had a slight miss to it. We had already changed the fuel pump when we rebuilt the engine. Then the truck died and had to be towed home. So we have now also change the coil pack with ECM and the distributor. At that point it would still only act like it would start but not start. We checked the fuel pressure. It is showing 60 PSI. Which is what the manufacturer states it should be. We read a post that talked about the spider injection system and the fuel pump relay so we replaced the relay and tried. Same. Then we went today and got a set of spider injectors and a replacement fuel pressure regulator. Still have the same issue. So we are lost now. List of what we have done, new fuel pump, fuel filter, spider injectors, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump relay, new distributor, new coil and ECM. There is nothing else we can think of. OH YEAH, it does run with carb cleaner being sprayed into it. So we know it is more than likely a fuel issue but have replaced all the fuel parts. So what else can it be? If you have had this same issue or know how to figure this out, please let me know. I can't afford to take it to a shop. 1 LAST THING all the codes are clear now on my home tester. HELP ME PLEASE.

 

Did you do a Passlock relearn after you changed the ECM? Probably wasn't your original problem but could be the problem now. This is a good explanation how it works and how to do it ATOW | GM Pass Lock II Relearn Procedure

 

We did the reset the other day with no success. The security light does not stay on either. We don't have a pk2 key ours doesn't say anything on it. so not sure if that is an issue with that. we have tried so much we are running out of ideas. Thanks for the site tho. I will call the dealer to see if I can get a different key but not sure if I really need that to make it work.

 

I agree that a different key probably won't help you. If the key worked before, I don't think it would change now. Just wasn't sure if you did the relearn or not.

 

Are you 100% sure it is timed correctly? From what you said, it seems like your no-start issue happened immediately after replacing the distributor

 

Yes we are 100% sure. We even pulled the timing cover off and rechecked it to make sure it did not jump time.

 

Since it runs on carb cleaner, check with a noid light to see if the injectors are being pulsed during the no-start and report. We will go one way or another from there. Here's the tough love part...... Stop shotgunning it with parts (that strategy is obviously not working for you), get with the program, and actually do the diagnosis or there is little we can do for you. Codes don't tell you what part to replace, they only identify an problem area and refer you to the correct diagnostic charts.

Can a mod please move this thread into the 2nd gen forum. It shouldn't be here in the welcome to new members..

 

Les is right, you need to stop throwing parts at this problem unless they are verified bad items that are going to need replacement anyhow. Besides wasting time and money, many cheap replacement parts might cause a new problem where none existed.

Carb spray gets it to start and then what? Does it then run on its own?

George