Changed camshaft sensor runs and holds idle good till it warms up at about 120degrees. Then it wants to stumble at low idle. Now if I hold my foot on pedal at steady 1k rpm it is smooth as can be? Should I try to adjust the idle screw?

 

Camshaft ad crankshaft are processed by ECU unit, they do not write one to another.
In general, from an engineering point of view, You should think of an ECU as a function of multiple variables. The sensors are input data (function parameters), the actuators are the output (result) of a function. In a good condition, the input parameters are being calculated and the output values to the actuators are set. In case, when the input data is wrong, and thus the calculated actuator value is out of range, an alarm is raised. It could be non-critical (MIL lits) or a critical (limp mode).

Another thing is, that the engines are meant to operate in a high ambient temperature (around 176 F / 80 C). For example, In a huge, ship's engines, there is a HT cooling system, that keeps the engine body at a temperature set. A hot water is circulating in a closed system keeping the cylinders hot. The rule is You cannot start up a cold engine. Almost same rule apply to a car's engines, except there is no HT cooling system and they start cold. The point is to heat up the engine fast, therefore an additional air and fuel is added. While engine builds a temperature, some of the ECU variables may not be reliable and cannot be used for calculation (i.e. O2 sensors). So they remain inhibited till the temperature is reached a setpoint.
I believe that this is a case You're dealing now, and 120F seem to be a setpoint.

Idle screw is not a solution, unless You really believe it magically got twisted a couple of turns. I would leave it as it is. Connect to OBDII and check the fault list. Check out IAC unit. Check out temperature transmitter accuracy. You also mentioned something on O2 sensor bank 2 fault. Is it on yet?

 

Only faults coming up now are the crankshaft position sensor and then the camshaft position sensor. It acts much better since the cam sensor swap but only while cold. So I guess I should do the crankshaft sensor now and clear the codes again and see?

 

When I changed that camshaft sensor and started it I had hope again as it started right up and ran good till it started warming up.

 

I think You could try swapping the crankshaft sensor. In general ECU should see both shafts rotating or stopped. Otherwise (i.e. one feedback signal is missing) that would result in triggering a fault. Another possible issue is that sensors are operable, but the feedback signals are time shifted (timing chain slip had occurred).

 

From what I have learned here; if either the camshaft or crankshaft position sensors are replaced or even moved then the "Relearn" procedure needs to be done which requires a Tech2 tool, otherwise the ECU uses the old data and ignores the new data from the replaced sensor(s).

 

It’s only for the crankshaft sensor from what I understand.

 

Ok, was not sure. Do you access to a scan tool that provides the camshaft retard setting? This should be ±2° and I know there is not really any adjustment other than to loosen the screws and twist the sensor, then re-tighten.

I will admit that I have removed the crankshaft sensor several times on my '02 to clean it (have the normal front cover oil leak) and have never had a problem with needing to do the Relearn...of course used the same sensor.

 

I wish I could’ve got more info about all the live data I left. I feel like I wasted more money for something I don’t have a clue about lol

 

I’m not sure if it had that setting