New 2003 4x4 4 door LS with questions
#1
04-26-2014, 01:15 PM
New 2003 4x4 4 door LS with questions
Hello,
Picked up a nice white 2003 LS 4x4 4 door with 72k on the clock, and I've got a few questions that I haven't been able to find the answer for very quickly with the search here.
First off, I have what seems to be the typical "put the gas nozzle in all the way, pull the trigger, get 1/4th of a gallon of gas into the tank, and it shut off" problem that Google shows is... a VERY prevalent issue with blazers and S10's apparently but doesn't provide any solutions as my charcoal box is not damp inside and the lines are super clean and dry. The problem is further compounded by my confusion in that apparently the 4 doors have the gas tank on the left side under the passenger area as opposed to right behind the spare tire as I've seen lots of other people suggest, even the filler neck looks totally different than the parts I see listed as it doesn't look to have a secondary tube on it for a vent. If it helps, this Blazer was purchased new in Hawaii, possibly not a 48 state vehicle? Its a pain in the rump because I gotta pull the baffles back, and hold the trigger just right... and listen for gas starting to back up into the neck. I doubt its the screen because it fills pretty quick and doesn't back up if I get the nozzle set right and hold the trigger.
Second, this is the first vehicle I've ever had with an automatic transmissions, and since they mystify me in their ability to seemingly blow up on people, I'd like to do two things to my own 4L60-E to prevent any future explosions of transmission bits, these include two things with further questions.
A B&M 70264 14,400BTU aux cooler with bypass for cooling in line AFTER the 'cooler/heater' in the radiator, since as far as I can tell the coolant temps are always around 200F, and 180F and UNDER 210F is the 'sweet spot' for transmission fluid temps with something like every 40F doubling wear, so, blamo, lower it by 20F and call it fantastic eh? Question is, everyone complains that the soft lines on these aftermarket coolers leak, suck, blow up, rub, and are a ticking time bomb unless constantly inspected, has anyone had a shop make up hard lines to do this install proper before? What did it cost?
A B&M Deep Cast Aluminum pan, 70260, B&M doesn't list this as a part for the 2003 Blazer, but its a 4L60-E pan with plug, fins, and additional 3qt capacity, does it fit? Does is hang down in a seriously stupid "LOL just begging to get hit by a rock and explode" kinda way? Who's got it, seems like a cheap easy mod!
Mudflaps/Splashguards, I can't find any 'no drilling required' guards, does anyone have a GM part number or other information on the 'factory' guards, or did they just never make any and expect people to wing it and just try and line up the generic thin little things they typically sold about that time period?
I got 17.44MPG on a 50% city 50% highway run, that pretty solid?
Does anyone make a /PLUG AND PLAY/ stereo harness? I'm wanting to get a cheapie double din to replace the CD radio in it, I haven't listen to anything but Spotify over aux-in on any vehicle in... a long time ;P I'd like to do this, but I'd spent the money to get the plug and play harness instead of dicking around with wires myself.
How difficult is it to change the fluid in the transfer case? Never seen anyone talk about it, but I suppose its pretty important?
I have power door locks, windows, etc, etc and three keys... but no fob, what RPO code would tell me if I can just go nab a fob and stop treating my tail gate as central locking while walking away from the car
What line wrench sizes do I need to change the fuel filter?
Anyways! Since its new to me, its pretty much as if it rolled right off the dealer lot, there is NOTHING changed about this blazer at all, even the spare tire tread matches the tread pattern on the current (meaty and new looking) tires.
I'm clueless a bit, this is my first 'american' car to be honest, I'm a euro/asian guy, I have a Mini as the 'fun' car right now and a Kawasaki to commute on :P but I worked as a vehicle detailer at a GM dealer about the time this would have been sold new, so some of it is... slightly familliar!
Picked up a nice white 2003 LS 4x4 4 door with 72k on the clock, and I've got a few questions that I haven't been able to find the answer for very quickly with the search here.
First off, I have what seems to be the typical "put the gas nozzle in all the way, pull the trigger, get 1/4th of a gallon of gas into the tank, and it shut off" problem that Google shows is... a VERY prevalent issue with blazers and S10's apparently but doesn't provide any solutions as my charcoal box is not damp inside and the lines are super clean and dry. The problem is further compounded by my confusion in that apparently the 4 doors have the gas tank on the left side under the passenger area as opposed to right behind the spare tire as I've seen lots of other people suggest, even the filler neck looks totally different than the parts I see listed as it doesn't look to have a secondary tube on it for a vent. If it helps, this Blazer was purchased new in Hawaii, possibly not a 48 state vehicle? Its a pain in the rump because I gotta pull the baffles back, and hold the trigger just right... and listen for gas starting to back up into the neck. I doubt its the screen because it fills pretty quick and doesn't back up if I get the nozzle set right and hold the trigger.
Second, this is the first vehicle I've ever had with an automatic transmissions, and since they mystify me in their ability to seemingly blow up on people, I'd like to do two things to my own 4L60-E to prevent any future explosions of transmission bits, these include two things with further questions.
A B&M 70264 14,400BTU aux cooler with bypass for cooling in line AFTER the 'cooler/heater' in the radiator, since as far as I can tell the coolant temps are always around 200F, and 180F and UNDER 210F is the 'sweet spot' for transmission fluid temps with something like every 40F doubling wear, so, blamo, lower it by 20F and call it fantastic eh? Question is, everyone complains that the soft lines on these aftermarket coolers leak, suck, blow up, rub, and are a ticking time bomb unless constantly inspected, has anyone had a shop make up hard lines to do this install proper before? What did it cost?
A B&M Deep Cast Aluminum pan, 70260, B&M doesn't list this as a part for the 2003 Blazer, but its a 4L60-E pan with plug, fins, and additional 3qt capacity, does it fit? Does is hang down in a seriously stupid "LOL just begging to get hit by a rock and explode" kinda way? Who's got it, seems like a cheap easy mod!
Mudflaps/Splashguards, I can't find any 'no drilling required' guards, does anyone have a GM part number or other information on the 'factory' guards, or did they just never make any and expect people to wing it and just try and line up the generic thin little things they typically sold about that time period?
I got 17.44MPG on a 50% city 50% highway run, that pretty solid?
Does anyone make a /PLUG AND PLAY/ stereo harness? I'm wanting to get a cheapie double din to replace the CD radio in it, I haven't listen to anything but Spotify over aux-in on any vehicle in... a long time ;P I'd like to do this, but I'd spent the money to get the plug and play harness instead of dicking around with wires myself.
How difficult is it to change the fluid in the transfer case? Never seen anyone talk about it, but I suppose its pretty important?
I have power door locks, windows, etc, etc and three keys... but no fob, what RPO code would tell me if I can just go nab a fob and stop treating my tail gate as central locking while walking away from the car
What line wrench sizes do I need to change the fuel filter?
Anyways! Since its new to me, its pretty much as if it rolled right off the dealer lot, there is NOTHING changed about this blazer at all, even the spare tire tread matches the tread pattern on the current (meaty and new looking) tires.
I'm clueless a bit, this is my first 'american' car to be honest, I'm a euro/asian guy, I have a Mini as the 'fun' car right now and a Kawasaki to commute on :P but I worked as a vehicle detailer at a GM dealer about the time this would have been sold new, so some of it is... slightly familliar!
#2
04-27-2014, 01:38 PM
Nice looking truck! Take care of it and it will last 200K+ miles.
Inside the fuel filler neck, there is a plastic ball, (about the size of a golf ball). It is to prevent fuel from being siphoned by sticking a hose in the filler neck. The ball is most likely stuck. The neck should look similar to this, with the vent tube alongside the neck: Dorman Products - 577-947 The first character of the VIN will determine the country of origin, post it and we can figure it out for you.
This transmission cooler: Imperial Maxi-Kool® XL Transmission Oil Cooler 243012: Buy the right Transmission Cooler(Add-On,Not O.E.) at Advance Auto Parts= fits perfectly, in front of the radiator, on the passenger side. If you eliminate the factory cooler in the radiator, trans fluid operating temperature will be ~60F above ambient temperature. The fluid filter and gasket should be replaced every 36K miles. The oversize oil pan is not necessary if you install the cooler.
Transfer case fluid should be changed every 50K miles. 3 button cases require Dexron VI fluid, available at most auto parts stores. 4 button cases require GM Auto-trak II fluid, available only at GM dealers:
Capacity is ~2 quarts on both cases. On the rear of the case there is a fill and a drain plug. Remove the (upper) fill plug first, (to make sure you can refill after you drain it). Then remove the lower plug and allow it to drain completely. Reinstall the lower plug and fill through the upper plug until it runs out.
Mud flaps, you're on your own.
17MPG combination city/hwy is about normal depending on axle ratio.
In the glove box there is a white sticker with several 3 character codes. If "AU0" is listed, the vehicle is equipped with RKE, (Remote Keyless Entry). If the FOB is missing, you can purchase one and have the vehicle programmed to recognize it. If it does not have "AU0", the vehicle will need to be programmed to recognize every new key that you have made for it, (yes, it's a special key blank).
The flare nut on the steel line is 16mm, and the hex on the fuel filter is 20mm. Don't forget to replace the brown, (fuel rated) 3/8" O ring on the steel line, (it does not come with the filter).
Inside the fuel filler neck, there is a plastic ball, (about the size of a golf ball). It is to prevent fuel from being siphoned by sticking a hose in the filler neck. The ball is most likely stuck. The neck should look similar to this, with the vent tube alongside the neck: Dorman Products - 577-947 The first character of the VIN will determine the country of origin, post it and we can figure it out for you.
This transmission cooler: Imperial Maxi-Kool® XL Transmission Oil Cooler 243012: Buy the right Transmission Cooler(Add-On,Not O.E.) at Advance Auto Parts= fits perfectly, in front of the radiator, on the passenger side. If you eliminate the factory cooler in the radiator, trans fluid operating temperature will be ~60F above ambient temperature. The fluid filter and gasket should be replaced every 36K miles. The oversize oil pan is not necessary if you install the cooler.
Transfer case fluid should be changed every 50K miles. 3 button cases require Dexron VI fluid, available at most auto parts stores. 4 button cases require GM Auto-trak II fluid, available only at GM dealers:
Capacity is ~2 quarts on both cases. On the rear of the case there is a fill and a drain plug. Remove the (upper) fill plug first, (to make sure you can refill after you drain it). Then remove the lower plug and allow it to drain completely. Reinstall the lower plug and fill through the upper plug until it runs out.
Mud flaps, you're on your own.
17MPG combination city/hwy is about normal depending on axle ratio.
In the glove box there is a white sticker with several 3 character codes. If "AU0" is listed, the vehicle is equipped with RKE, (Remote Keyless Entry). If the FOB is missing, you can purchase one and have the vehicle programmed to recognize it. If it does not have "AU0", the vehicle will need to be programmed to recognize every new key that you have made for it, (yes, it's a special key blank).
The flare nut on the steel line is 16mm, and the hex on the fuel filter is 20mm. Don't forget to replace the brown, (fuel rated) 3/8" O ring on the steel line, (it does not come with the filter).
Last edited by Captain Hook; 04-27-2014 at 01:45 PM.
#3
04-29-2014, 08:48 PM
I KNOW FOR MY 2002 4 DOOR LS 4X4 I SIMPLY ADJUST THE AMOUNT OF THE GAS NOZZLE i STICK IN THE TANK ,SOME GAS NOZZLES GIVE THE BLAZERS A HARD TIME, I PUT IT IN ABOUT 3 QUARTERS OF THE WAY AND ANGELE THE NOZZLE NO PROBLEMS
#4
04-30-2014, 05:51 PM
Gotcha' on the trans pan, and now that I look up a bit of info and see it requires removing a mount, jacking, and jerking about with a brace or something too in order to even drop it, I'm willing to bet a deeper pan is a bad idea for fitment.
Moving on from that idea then...
I heard there was at least a nice pan that does fit with a drain plug available...
Is that the Doorman 265-811? Or is there a different pan? How's the quality? I'd be willing to spend up to around $100 for a QUALITY pan of the stock 'deep' capacity with a proper drain plug, etc, the Doorman part seems too cheap in cost to be 'true' in quality...?
Did look, that filler neck looks much more familiar as well, I might just drop it and take a good look inside then.
In looking up the RPO's, AU3 sadly and don't think I want the black box and to reprogram things sadly!
In looking at all the RPO's I found a LOT of great information, for example I've got a G80 locker in the rear end which has caused me grief in finding fluid, its not an LSD and the service bulletins say specifically to NOT use any fluid or additive that is for an LSD, every fluid I can find in 80w90 or 75w90 is the LSD additive thats sure to make things real slick for the govlock in a bad way. What fluids have a real fine proven track record of working and not chewing up the govlock besides the purple juice from GM? Checked with the BITOG forums, not a lot of agreement there which is usually a baaaaad sign.
Also from the RPO's, I see 2 federal emissions RPO's and one that mentions california as well, so it must have the full suite of eco-goodies on it.
Since I've learned that I likely don't want to partake in dropping the trans pan myself and risk damaging a shift solenoid or getting otherwise 'stuck', what would be the expected cost you'd likely pay for a shop, dealer or otherwise to do the job, and is a flush unacceptable due to the electronic valve body on these transmissions?
Dexcool... anyone get a dealer or otherwise flush the coolant and go with fresh Dexcool? Evil blue koolaid this stuff is I always hear, betting its best to freshen it up than risk its usual un-benefits.
Moving on from that idea then...
I heard there was at least a nice pan that does fit with a drain plug available...
Is that the Doorman 265-811? Or is there a different pan? How's the quality? I'd be willing to spend up to around $100 for a QUALITY pan of the stock 'deep' capacity with a proper drain plug, etc, the Doorman part seems too cheap in cost to be 'true' in quality...?
Did look, that filler neck looks much more familiar as well, I might just drop it and take a good look inside then.
In looking up the RPO's, AU3 sadly and don't think I want the black box and to reprogram things sadly!
In looking at all the RPO's I found a LOT of great information, for example I've got a G80 locker in the rear end which has caused me grief in finding fluid, its not an LSD and the service bulletins say specifically to NOT use any fluid or additive that is for an LSD, every fluid I can find in 80w90 or 75w90 is the LSD additive thats sure to make things real slick for the govlock in a bad way. What fluids have a real fine proven track record of working and not chewing up the govlock besides the purple juice from GM? Checked with the BITOG forums, not a lot of agreement there which is usually a baaaaad sign.
Also from the RPO's, I see 2 federal emissions RPO's and one that mentions california as well, so it must have the full suite of eco-goodies on it.
Since I've learned that I likely don't want to partake in dropping the trans pan myself and risk damaging a shift solenoid or getting otherwise 'stuck', what would be the expected cost you'd likely pay for a shop, dealer or otherwise to do the job, and is a flush unacceptable due to the electronic valve body on these transmissions?
Dexcool... anyone get a dealer or otherwise flush the coolant and go with fresh Dexcool? Evil blue koolaid this stuff is I always hear, betting its best to freshen it up than risk its usual un-benefits.
#5
05-10-2014, 10:13 PM
Well, for lack of further information, I went ahead and bought the Doorman pan and a Fel-Pro gasket in hopes they're pretty good quality stuff, looks ok to me... I don't know what makes a good or bad pan, I'm not very 'automatic' smart, but workin' on it.
Changed the transfer case fluid which looked... red, put red in, red came out the top hole, capped it off, tried it in 2 hi and 4 hi, and I still don't know the black magic that makes 4 lo work.
Changed the fuel filter, and as most people here say, the fuel pump went from "Is there wasps nest in your back fender!?" to pretty well inaudible.
7.625 is the right diff cover gasket for a 3.42 geared G80 equipped 4wd? Everyone lists a 8.625 and 7.625... no idea whats proper!
Dexcool is UNCOOL, I did finally pull the radiator cap off and sorta had one of those "I don't know what I expected" moments followed by a "I've made a huge mistake" moment.
Its orange, sure, but its also a little swirly brown, and the radiator cap has a nice layer of.... stuff on it.
I'm certainly not going to be able to do a coolant flush myself given my lacking means of disposing of such a fluid, and in such great volume too, so I'll have the dealer 'deal' with flushing it and yes I know Dexcool will go back in if they do it, but since I've seen the results of people trying to 'flush' and fill with the green stuff and ending up with jello, I'll go with the factory fill begrudgingly
What /should/ it cost for have the coolant swapped at the dealer, and since there is a 'cure' involving multiple flushes and a mysterious mystery chemical that gets rid of all the 'crap', how much have people paid for /THAT/ ?
I'm really digging this Blazer, I like having a vehicle I can do some work on myself again, and its very relaxed, not high strung like the past vehicles I've had, its slow and sort of relaxing to drive
I've been piling miles onto it far faster than intended, gonna get it prepped for long trips after all the fluids are swapped and clean.
Changed the transfer case fluid which looked... red, put red in, red came out the top hole, capped it off, tried it in 2 hi and 4 hi, and I still don't know the black magic that makes 4 lo work.
Changed the fuel filter, and as most people here say, the fuel pump went from "Is there wasps nest in your back fender!?" to pretty well inaudible.
7.625 is the right diff cover gasket for a 3.42 geared G80 equipped 4wd? Everyone lists a 8.625 and 7.625... no idea whats proper!
Dexcool is UNCOOL, I did finally pull the radiator cap off and sorta had one of those "I don't know what I expected" moments followed by a "I've made a huge mistake" moment.
Its orange, sure, but its also a little swirly brown, and the radiator cap has a nice layer of.... stuff on it.
I'm certainly not going to be able to do a coolant flush myself given my lacking means of disposing of such a fluid, and in such great volume too, so I'll have the dealer 'deal' with flushing it and yes I know Dexcool will go back in if they do it, but since I've seen the results of people trying to 'flush' and fill with the green stuff and ending up with jello, I'll go with the factory fill begrudgingly
What /should/ it cost for have the coolant swapped at the dealer, and since there is a 'cure' involving multiple flushes and a mysterious mystery chemical that gets rid of all the 'crap', how much have people paid for /THAT/ ?
I'm really digging this Blazer, I like having a vehicle I can do some work on myself again, and its very relaxed, not high strung like the past vehicles I've had, its slow and sort of relaxing to drive
I've been piling miles onto it far faster than intended, gonna get it prepped for long trips after all the fluids are swapped and clean.
#6
05-12-2014, 08:24 PM
Having the pan put on, new gasket, trans filter done in 2 days now.
Dealer is giving me a little confusion since I'm asking for a coolant flush. They're charging $169 which is fairly reasonable, the person I talked to on the phone said it was an 'exchange', but they talked to the service writer who said it was a chemical flush with the machine and such (probably BG machine?), and on their site its listed as a fluid exchange...
Is it common for this kinda... confusion? I mean, a fluid exchange should be under $100 or so, I'd assume the $199 service (before $30 discount) would be a /real/ flush eh?
Any input on any of this so far?
Also trying to figure out, which is the outlet for the trans cooler on the radiator, the top, or the bottom?
Dealer is giving me a little confusion since I'm asking for a coolant flush. They're charging $169 which is fairly reasonable, the person I talked to on the phone said it was an 'exchange', but they talked to the service writer who said it was a chemical flush with the machine and such (probably BG machine?), and on their site its listed as a fluid exchange...
Is it common for this kinda... confusion? I mean, a fluid exchange should be under $100 or so, I'd assume the $199 service (before $30 discount) would be a /real/ flush eh?
Any input on any of this so far?
Also trying to figure out, which is the outlet for the trans cooler on the radiator, the top, or the bottom?
Last edited by Xipher; 05-12-2014 at 10:30 PM. Reason: Added question
#7
05-13-2014, 01:03 PM
I scanned your posts and saw you mentioned an aftermarket pan and 'deep' meaning deeper than stock. Let me mention that if your new pan is deeper than stock, you will need a filter/screen with a neck that is longer than stock. This is so the screen will be at the right depth to pick up the fluid in the bottom of the pan. The parts counter guy should know what you mean when you ask for a pan gasket and filter/screen with a long neck.
#8
05-13-2014, 01:44 PM
I scanned your posts and saw you mentioned an aftermarket pan and 'deep' meaning deeper than stock. Let me mention that if your new pan is deeper than stock, you will need a filter/screen with a neck that is longer than stock. This is so the screen will be at the right depth to pick up the fluid in the bottom of the pan. The parts counter guy should know what you mean when you ask for a pan gasket and filter/screen with a long neck.
#9
05-14-2014, 06:30 AM
I don't know if '3 inch depth pan' is the same as the OEM deep pan. Did Dorman quote an added capacity in quarts of the deep pan? I put a Silverado OEM deep pan on my 94 Impala SS with the 4L60E trans. It had a deep pan and a recessed drain plug. The added capacity was about one quart. One caution is to watch for reduced ground clearance on the deep ATF pan. The Blazer skid plate should take care of that problem.
#10
05-14-2014, 08:37 AM
I don't know if '3 inch depth pan' is the same as the OEM deep pan. Did Dorman quote an added capacity in quarts of the deep pan? I put a Silverado OEM deep pan on my 94 Impala SS with the 4L60E trans. It had a deep pan and a recessed drain plug. The added capacity was about one quart. One caution is to watch for reduced ground clearance on the deep ATF pan. The Blazer skid plate should take care of that problem.
Taking the Blazer in this morning to the dealer and hoping the Dexcool flush and my expectation to pop the rad cap when I pick it up and see a SHINY and CLEAN trans fluid heat exchange and /damn/ clean overflow don't turn into a point of contention.