Hello everyone. before I get cracking I should say I have been searching here for a couple days and have not found anything definitive.

The issue is a bit complex. I'm the go to guy for my friends when the car problems start and know my way around a car pretty well. Mostly a German background but I can usually find my way out of a paper sack.

To start, the truck was having a horrible time turning over and sounded like the flex plate was toast. Sure enough, the teeth were trashed. Also found the starter housing cracked and when trying to start it would also kick back like a timing or backfire issue. Also found a TSB about this issue and problems with a crank sensor http://apratech.org/000604014.pdf. No codes related to the sensor but the FP and started were both damaged.

We replaced the flex plate and starter. It now would at least turn over but it still sounds crazy and has backfire/kickback issues. Pulled the plugs and verified 155-175 compression cold. Checked base timing and found that the dist does not line up with the mark on the dist housing. Pulled dist and was able to get it "close". Now when it cranks it make normal cranking sounds but still pops in the intake. Check timing again and found dist to be close but not close enough. It appears I am onto something but cant really see down the dist hole to see if there is damage to the gear. Wondering if the chain jumps a tooth or two if this thing will still run? Owner said it ran poorly for a couple days but then got to the point of not starting.

Chain? Cam? Both?



Thanks for any help. And, if I missed some crazy thread about this being a common issue then my apologies.

Steve

 

What are you driving?

 

1999 4x4 4.3

 

When you reinstalled the distributor, did you run through all of the steps in the EDI Engine Timing thread? You cannot line up the #1 piston to TDC on compression & drop in the distributor. You need to align both of the marks on the balancer. And that is only possible if the balancer outer ring has not slipped which is something I have seen in my time here as well as in outside these forums on my uncle's truck.

 

I did follow those steps up to the point that mentions CMP retard. Can I assume that the truck should at least start if base timing is correct?
once the dist was in the rotor was approx 1/4 inch in the advanced direction of the small pointer with the 6 cast in it.

 

Also, In removing the trans I managed to pull the wires out of the 4 pin connector in the neutral safety switch. I have a repair harness to splice on but can't seem to find a diagram of this connector.