I have a 2003 Blazer 2dr 4x4 with a brake problem. I had a bad rotor on the left front and replaced both sides with new rotors and ceramic brakes. I also rebuilt the left caliper but failed to notice the brake hose wasn’t tight. I lost all the fluid from the master cylinder and there’s when the problem started. I have changed the rear rotors and brakes, installed a new master cylinder, and replaced the brake line going to the rear. At first I got no fluid going to the rear, I finally used a syringe and forced fluid to the master cylinder. I can get fluid to all the calipers with no air coming out but the pedal still goes to the floor. I did bench bleed on the master, checked for leaks, did the rr, lr, rf, lf bleeding method. Tried vacuum bleeding, two person bleeding (both with and without the motor running), gravity bleeding, and swearing at it. I've always did my own work including rebuilding motors, transmissions, and everything in between since 1965 and never run into this. Any Ideas?

This is my only vehicle and I’m close to 40 miles round trip to any parts store. Harbor has a pressure bleeder around $32, any idea if they work?



Thanks

 

Sounds like you got air into the anti-lock brake system. That would require that the solenoids be cycled to pump brake fluid into the ABS unit. Then it could be bled after that's completed. There are different units that can accomplish the cycling but they can be expensive. Someone else might come along and have a work around.

 

That's what I'm thinking too. Problem is cost, I would need to have the car towed along with the cost to run the scanner on it. Between medical costs and income doesn't leave me much extra. I was hoping someone had a fix.

 

Cheapest one I know of.

 

That's possible, I hate to spend the money but I may have no choice.

Thanks for the link!

 

Ok, I just ordered it and it should be here Monday. Hopefully this solves the problem.

 

Let us know how it comes out for you. You may want to review the factory ABS bleeding procedure specifically for Blazers before you begin. It should be somewhere here on the forum. Just search for it. Good luck and best wishes for a successful repair. Any issues just ask.

 

Could always delete the abs, and bleed like normal, also. Not only can you bleed conventionally, it frees up a ton of space under the hood lol

I mean, you're losing a huge piece of safety equipment, though

 

He'd have to incorporate a proportioning valve also.

 

Only need that if you're changing drum to disc, right?

We deleted my abs a long time ago, since the module was dead. I remember my dad having to put a T in the line, but I don't think it needed a proportioning valve