Since I just did the intake manifold gasket change-out, and when I looked at the rotor, it was green!
So I had purchased a Wells cap and rotor about two years ago....yeah...I know only use Delco...but I thought I would go ahead and put these on and then change them out in a few months along with plugs and wires.

Well....the engine started just fine after putting everything back together, but I heard a "clicking" sound that was not there before. Thought it might just be the fuel injector since I had not put the air snorkle back on yet.

Went for a drive and discovered I had a coolant leak....forgot to put a hose clamp on...anyways....the "clicking" had gotten quite a bit louder and I found the source of it by putting my hand on the distributor cap and could feel the "clicking"....rotor was hitting the distributor cap.

I took the cap and rotor off and all looked fine. Put everything back on...samething.

So was wondering if this is what others have experienced when using non-Delco cap and rotor. I will be putting the old Delco cap and rotor back on tomorrow to see if the "clicking" goes away or I have a problem with the distributor since putting it back in after the intake gasket replacement.

Comments????

 

ran into that on a ram p/u 318cu
I think if you take a close look the rotor is contacting the lug on the inside of the cap
BTW it will get worse
Did you buy the cheap aluminum stud or better brass cap?

 

Green on the terminals..... hmm, let me guess, brass terminals? Silver, copper and gold are the best conductors of electricity, followed by aluminum, but aluminum corrodes. That's why it's necessary to put a dab of silicone dielectric grease on each terminal, inside and out of the cap, (it slows the corrosion process).

If the distributor bushings or drive gear are worn, like rexazz2 mentioned, it can cause the rotor to contact the terminals in the cap.

edit: Brass is an alloy, (copper & zinc). When it tarnishes, it turns green from the copper. Brass looks better than aluminum, good marketing tool

 

I had that same thing happen & the upper distributor bushing was wore. The distributors are plastic housings so not lifetime.

 

Not sure what the metal material is on the rotor or used on the cap terminals. I can see the cap terminals are not brass...probably aluminum. Again these components are from Wells....got them before I knew about their problems.

Still have not put the original cap and rotor back on. I know there was no "clicking" sound before I did the intake gasket and removed the distributor, so hopefully not a distributor bushing problem.

There is play in the distributor shaft as far as up down....did not notice any side to side movement.

Will edit this later today after I put the original cap and rotor back on. I did notice that #2 plug wire no longer fits tight into the cap and that I has two small pieces of metal loose inside the boot....so something has broken.
I was planning on getting new wires anyways and was going to take a look at the Autolite #96781 set that was noted on the Forum. Sure alot cheaper than the direct fit Delco 7466K set!!

 

Unless the distributor shaft bushings are really worn out, you won't be able to feel radial play with your hands, we're only talking a few thousands of an inch. Axial play is normal. When the engine is running, the gears pull the shaft down, so axial play isn't a factor. There are companies that make aluminum replacement distributors, definitely worth looking for, maybe Summit Racing online. The last one that I bought, about 2 years ago, was made by Dorman, ($80??) but they don't offer them anymore.

If the clicking just started, it could be an indication that the bushings are worn, and the distributor is not plumb, (straight up and down). The hole in the intake manifold is larger than the distributor housing, this enables camshaft retard to be adjusted, but it also will allow the distributor to be installed "leaning" one direction or another.

Autolite Professional Series plug wires, #96781, is a good choice! Better specs and cheaper price than AC Delco.

 

Well....replaced the Wells cap and rotor with the old original Delco parts....gee...guess what....no more "clicking". I cleaned-off all the terminals, but I will still replace with new parts.

Never did find-out for sure exactly where the rotor was hitting...did not see any impact area. Wells rotor is not an exact copy of the Delco one...especially how the rotor terminal is held in place....much cheaper construction.

So like has been stated here many times...only use Delco parts.

With regards to plug wires...I was looking at the Autolite 96871 set....but it does not include a new coil wire....at least that is what is stated.....is this correct? Would like to replace all wires.

Right now the Blazer is up and running once again and no more coolant leaking....amazing how putting the heater hose clamp on stops the coolant from dumping out....LOL....

 

The wire set comes with all the wires, including the coil wire. Here's how they connect to the cap, notice where #1 & #3 are placed.

 

Yep...know well the plug wire routing on the cap.

Going to order-up a set of the Autolite 96871 wires along with a Delco cap and rotor and new set of plugs.

Intake no longer leaking....heater hose with clamp on...no longer leaking.

This Blazer has always been a quick start for me....like 0.5 secs of turning the key the engine starts....and stays running...has never quit....it is sooo nice....and continues to be so.
This Blazer is dependable.

Only other problem I have is oil leaking from the front cover...have applied RTV between the cover and block which worked for several months...knew it was not a permenant fix...but to either pull the engine or drop the front axle in order to drop the oil pan and remove front cover.....that is alot of work and time....I'll clean off the old RTV and apply new...only takes an hour.

Thanks to all for the assitance in replacing the intake manifold gasket job and with the non Delco ignition parts issue.

LannyL81

 

Sounds good. AC Delco plugs #41-993 with a gap of .060".

Something else to keep in mind about the timing cover leaking: Whenever the timing cover is removed, it must be replaced, do not reuse it. AND, whenever the crankshaft position sensor, (mounted to the timing cover) is moved, removed, replaced, or disturbed in any way, (includes timing cover replacement) the crankshaft position sensor relearn must be performed with a capable scan tool.