Thank you everyone for help on my thermostat. It took 5 minutes. So I went to go change out my rear brake pads. I did the drivers side fine. When i got to the passengers side and took the caliper off it practically disintegrated. is there anything I should know before doing this? Are there various ways to bleed the air out once i am done? Do I have to?

 

You'll definitely need to bleed the brakes after replacing the caliper. The easiest way is to open the bleed valve/bolt on the caliper (near where the brake line connects) and pump your brake several times. Excess fluid and air will exit through the bleed valve, you'll have to catch it with something. You'll also want to bleed at all four wheels, starting with the furthest from your master cylinder and working to the closest (passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, driver front). Much easier if you have two people...one pumping the brakes and one opening and closing the bleed valve on the caliper.

The other option is to get a vacuum bleeder that connects to the bleed valve and sucks the fluid/air out of the line with no brake pumping required.

Make sure you keep the master cylinder topped off throughout the process.

 

It has been a rough day. I went to change out my rear pads. I started on the drivers side which went smooth. I did notice the caliper being dry, I don't know if thats ok or not. So on to the passengers side. I removed the pads and such and the caliper practically shot out and broke. I just finished replacing the caliper. Funny thing is the brakes did not seem to bleed. There is fluid from when it blew out, so it had fluid. They work fine but something is wrong. After a test ride the drivers side rotor was cool while the passenger side with the new caliper was burning hot and smelled very bad. What is wrong? Is it my lines, how do I fix this. I have been trying for 2 weeks to get my baby back on the road. Please Help. Thank You

 

Too bad you didnt live closer to me , Yeah i know its time for a vacation right LOL,, the rear caliper that you replaced, it was rebuilt from an auto store, or ya picked one up from a used car junk yard? the pistons should of course have been pushed in already!! when you put it on and all back together, i`m guessing you checked the fluid in the master refilled it, slowly pumped the pedal to get the pistons to come out and press on the pads till the pedal was somewhat hard in pressing pressure? rechecked the master again.. when you bleed brakes, all my life i have been told even in auto school back in the day , to start the bleeding procedure the furthest away from the master which would be the right rear, then the left rear, then the right front, and last the drivers front... without being there to see what ya did, it makes it harder to try and diagnose the problem that your having, i`m trying to give pointers on what to try next.. The rear calipers are dual piston also correct? I still havent had to do my rear brakes yet and i have put just about 40,000 miles on them since i bought the truck..some day when i have time i`ll go out and look at what theses calipers involve to be replaced or just serviced..also try doing gravity bleed on all the calipers.. thats where you just open up the bleeder screws one at a time till you see a good flow of brake fluid coming out of the screw then you close it and go on to the next ,, rem right rear, left rear, right front, left front see if this helps you any..if it does or doesnt get back to us so we know thnks..

 

When I try to bleed the caliper I just put on, nothing happens. It is an OEM I got from Advance. The thing like blew out the piston and fluid came out when I went to change pads but I have not seen any near the new caliper since. When I took off brake line to replace caliper, no fluid at all was there. I have replaced one before and I know it is just hooking brake line up and stuff. On a related note, Why do I always struggle to get new pads in holder? I use new metal clip holders but struggle. Can I lube these or what helps that? Last time I replaced caliper it was because of what it is doing now but this one is a new caliper so i am lost. The Master cylinder reservoir has not even lost any fluid really or went down at all??

 

The flexible brake lines' interior can collapse and restrict flow of the brake fluid. Frequently this collapse permits high pressure flow but restricts the return flow to the master cyl (just a little flow to pull the pads off of the rotors). If a flexible line is really shot, perhaps it even prevents high pressure flow.
I've had 3 vehicles with 'broken' flex lines that caused hot brakes and premature pad wear.
Those flexible lines aren't cheap but it sounds like that may be the problem.
Good luck.

 

Are we talking the little lines hooked to the caliper? Could these be bad and causing my hot brakes?

 

The damaged/collapsed flex lines can definitely cause a brake to drag.

 

when i changed my rear brakes i had to tap the caliper on. it was a tight fit. and the rims did warm up. but didn't smell hot. we all know that smell right. look at the pad next to the cylinder. is it flush with it or at an angle. ur not getting fluid at all from the line to the caliper, not a drop? your brakes still work? check to see if the line has ben plugged. theres not abs on the rear its easy to plug the line. but thats just a guess considering the cyl shot out at you. take the line off and check. and the pads what a pain. one side goes too far and the other wont budge. you'd think they would of put a stopper in there. i used a small flathead and cleared built up debri it helps. Good Luck