Oil Lines, Oil Filter Housing Need Replaced... Mieneke says almost $700
#11
New Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 55

There seems to be enough flat metal there good left on the housing behind the filter to drill and add on a flat piece of metal on to the housing to get to the bolts on the plate and secure it good.
#12
Yeah. If you can't find a one new or a good one from a junkyard, then you may have to find a way to secure the one you have. A large band strap could be passed over the entire thing, bracket and all, to secure it.
#13
If you have all the pieces (you probably don't because they fell off but hey it's worth a mention) you could have it tig welded back together.
Another option could be making a new bracket (or having a machine or welding shop make you one) and having THAT tig welded on.
Another option could be making a new bracket (or having a machine or welding shop make you one) and having THAT tig welded on.
#14
Beginning Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 35

I weighed my options and decided a new housing was the best route, as opposed to making the old one work with a clamp or band.
Called the dealer ship here in Muncie, said they could have the part by tomorrow. He charged a little over $100, but I talked him down to $80 + tax.
Also ordered new lines from O'Rielly, they were $52 and change.
Called the dealer ship here in Muncie, said they could have the part by tomorrow. He charged a little over $100, but I talked him down to $80 + tax.
Also ordered new lines from O'Rielly, they were $52 and change.
#15
BF Veteran
Join Date: May 2011
Location: SW Central OH
Posts: 2,253


If you have all the pieces (you probably don't because they fell off but hey it's worth a mention) you could have it tig welded back together.
Another option could be making a new bracket (or having a machine or welding shop make you one) and having THAT tig welded on.
Another option could be making a new bracket (or having a machine or welding shop make you one) and having THAT tig welded on.
A. Grind a flat adjacent to broken ear, drill through and relocate bolt.
- OR.. IMO better -
B. Make a step clamp from heavy stock (or grind away some junk piece you have lying around) to look like this:
That leg should be just a little bit longer than the ear is thick, so it wont try to 'walk off' the housing.
#16
I guess I'm too late. I have that housing - that's the lower front one right? I would have shipped it to you for half that.
#17
Beginning Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 35

I'm just glad I'll have the part in hand tomorrow. Shouldn't take more than an hour or two to do the housing and hoses.
Got the lines and other stuff, just waiting on the housing/adapter to come in tomorrow

Btw, anyone know what this is? I noticed it when I looked under the truck this morning in the sunlight? Its attached to the sway bar... looks busted
Last edited by swartlkk; 11-09-2011 at 04:36 PM. Reason: *Combining Consecutive Posts* - Please use the edit function to add additional information in your post if another member has yet to respond.
#18
New Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 7

I would stay away fronm the Dorman o/c lines. I had them on mine didn't even last a year. It's better to pay the extra and go with OE
#19
Beginning Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 35

Should I try and clean some of the oil spray off the surrounding parts? What's the best way to do that?
#20
BF Veteran
Join Date: May 2011
Location: SW Central OH
Posts: 2,253








