Hate to revive an old thread here but into doing a new pan gasket. I checked for any loose bolts and found none. My leak was right in front and center at the bottom of the timing cover. My ? is how clean does the factory sealant need to be especially at the front and rear arches. Felpro says to use just a pea size of sealant at the 4 points.

Any real experiences out there? Any tips on reassembly?

 

Old school rule of thumb was to apply a coat of rtv on both sides of the arch gaskets, a skim coat too the pan gasket and then a pea sized drop in the four corners - We did a 97 LS 4.3 rebuild two winters ago and we read the instructions with the Felpro gaskets and per instructions installed dry with the pea sized drops in the corners - yup they leaked - knocked the pan loose and applied RTV no more leak - Some where in this sight is a post that this was discussed and if memory serves me correct when contacted Felpro stated that the reason they advised dry is people was applying too much RTV and causing gasket problems - sometimes old school ways are better

 

So I should do the 2 inch smear to each corner and the 4 peas?

 

My drip was at the front also so on the reseal I coated the front arch and skimmed a few inches back on the pan gasket its self and the pea drops, I would have skimmed the whole pan gasket but with motor installed I couldn't coat any farther back and I really wasn't into pulling the engine back out inless I had too

 

Mine is leaking on my 93 with 208,000 miles.. I just keep an eye on the oil. Not worth my time to replace the gasket.

Glad you all did it though.

 

With mine the drip would puke out about a pint+ in about 10 to 15 min at a idle so i really didn't have a choice and I hate a leak on a fresh rebuild - My old 84 2.8 first gen 4x4 leaks out about a qt and a half too two qt's per oil change - I think it oozes out every seam she has, good ol work horse tho, run her hard put her away wet and she fires up to do it all over again when ever i need her

 

Any time RTV is used, all surfaces need to be ABSOUTELY CLEAN and remain ABSOLUTELY FREE of any oil residue during installation and until RTV is completely set. Pretty difficult to do when engine is in the vehicle, as oil tends to drip down and running pan bolts into oily holes displaces the oil. Spend a lot of time with the carb or brake cleaner and clean rags and plan on getting a lot of drips in your face. Been there done that. Are you sure the leak is significant enough to really warrant all this trouble? Best to take the engine out and turn it upside down where you can clean it well and not drip oil onto your new sealing surfaces. If I had to do a 4.3 pan gasket with engine in place, I would use good old Permatex #2 or Aviation Form-a-Gasket on the end seals instead of RTV because it will tolerate less scrupulous surface prep. RTV is better, but only if you get it applied and sealed correctly.