oil pan/ rear main seal removal??
#2
Sorry dude but that is one horrible job. Oil pan on 2wd can't ne done without pulling the engine. Oil can be done on 4wd without pulling engine but rear main seal cannot.
Oil pan is as follows on a 4wd: disconnect battery, unbolt from axle and pivot forward; support on jackstands. Now support the engine with a hoist and remove the two motor mount center bolts. You can now lift the engine enough to get the oil pan off once you've cleared all the other crap out of the way. next, remove the starter as well as the oil filter adapter plate and lines. Unbolt the transmission cooler lines from the side of the pan. You may now unbolt the oil pan from the engine and transmission. **note! there are two rubber plugs in the bottom of the oil pan which must be removed to access the last two bolts** Now you can carefully lower the oil pan away from the motor. Don't pry it, it's cast aluminum and can crack and break easily and it's very expensive to replace.
Now the really lousy part. The rear main seal is a one piece seal which means that the engine and transmission must be separated in order to access the rear seal housing. So you have to remove either the engine or transmission. I removed the engine when this happened to me (good chance to take care of a few other things while you're at it).
I'm typing this off the top of my head from memory so I hope I remembered everything right.
Pulling the engine flat sucks on your rig but it is doable. get a couple buddies and some beer and you can do it in a weekend.
Oil pan is as follows on a 4wd: disconnect battery, unbolt from axle and pivot forward; support on jackstands. Now support the engine with a hoist and remove the two motor mount center bolts. You can now lift the engine enough to get the oil pan off once you've cleared all the other crap out of the way. next, remove the starter as well as the oil filter adapter plate and lines. Unbolt the transmission cooler lines from the side of the pan. You may now unbolt the oil pan from the engine and transmission. **note! there are two rubber plugs in the bottom of the oil pan which must be removed to access the last two bolts** Now you can carefully lower the oil pan away from the motor. Don't pry it, it's cast aluminum and can crack and break easily and it's very expensive to replace.
Now the really lousy part. The rear main seal is a one piece seal which means that the engine and transmission must be separated in order to access the rear seal housing. So you have to remove either the engine or transmission. I removed the engine when this happened to me (good chance to take care of a few other things while you're at it).
I'm typing this off the top of my head from memory so I hope I remembered everything right.
Pulling the engine flat sucks on your rig but it is doable. get a couple buddies and some beer and you can do it in a weekend.
#3
I paid $1700 for the job on my 97.. included motor mounts, cooler lines... i fiqure it was cheaper then replacing my driveway due to oil slicks.
#4
WOW!. I may as well pull the flippin' engine. I knew this job was a pain, but I didnt know it was that involved. I guees this is a job I'll put on the backburner since I'm going to replace the rear main seal also. I have everything I need to pull the engine except for the time! Looks like I'll just keep adding new oil every couple weeks and enjoy the extended drain intervals
Zach
Zach
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ebristol
2nd Generation S-series (1995-2005) Tech
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04-01-2008 04:53 PM