One Thing Leads To Another...
#11
10-06-2020, 11:59 AM
Your best bet is to be ready for the next event with a meter to measure voltages along the starter path to find the failure point. You can either start at the ignition switch end or the starter end. Let me know if you want a list of test points.
George
George
#13
10-06-2020, 12:32 PM
The fluid evacuator was a good suggestion. Had one in my Amazon cart but found one of these https://www.homedepot.com/p/Lumax-Mu...1345/302544982 in Home Depot on clearance for $7. Worked perfectly to suck out the remaining fluid from the transmission. Hardly spilled anything when I dropped the pan.
#14
10-06-2020, 01:47 PM
I'm going to assume automatic.
Assuming a fully charged battery in good condition. There are three paths for power that need to be working correctly:
1) The unfused main heavy black power cable to the starter itself directly from the battery. Make sure that its clean, tight, no corrosion at both ends and shows 12V at the starter post. If OK:
2) The power that will energize the starter and engage the starter gear. Battery power passes through an inline 175A cable fuse and then on to the under hood fuse block. Check for 12V at the Ign fuse A 40A. That passes through the starter relay and on to the starter to energize on the purple wire. Check for 12V on the ppl wire at the starter post with the ignition switch in the start position. If not:
3) The starter relay is energized by 12V from the ignition switch in the start position. In start, look for 12V at the Crank Fuse 10A in the under hood fuse block then at pin 85 in the start relay socket. If not then the ppl/wht wire at the output of the park/neutral switch on the side of the transmission. Still have trouble here then swap relays with the same value.
If this does not find the problem then its on to grounds and the ignition switch.
George
Assuming a fully charged battery in good condition. There are three paths for power that need to be working correctly:
1) The unfused main heavy black power cable to the starter itself directly from the battery. Make sure that its clean, tight, no corrosion at both ends and shows 12V at the starter post. If OK:
2) The power that will energize the starter and engage the starter gear. Battery power passes through an inline 175A cable fuse and then on to the under hood fuse block. Check for 12V at the Ign fuse A 40A. That passes through the starter relay and on to the starter to energize on the purple wire. Check for 12V on the ppl wire at the starter post with the ignition switch in the start position. If not:
3) The starter relay is energized by 12V from the ignition switch in the start position. In start, look for 12V at the Crank Fuse 10A in the under hood fuse block then at pin 85 in the start relay socket. If not then the ppl/wht wire at the output of the park/neutral switch on the side of the transmission. Still have trouble here then swap relays with the same value.
If this does not find the problem then its on to grounds and the ignition switch.
George
#15
10-06-2020, 02:02 PM
I'm going to assume automatic.
Assuming a fully charged battery in good condition. There are three paths for power that need to be working correctly:
1) The unfused main heavy black power cable to the starter itself directly from the battery. Make sure that its clean, tight, no corrosion at both ends and shows 12V at the starter post. If OK:
2) The power that will energize the starter and engage the starter gear. Battery power passes through an inline 175A cable fuse and then on to the under hood fuse block. Check for 12V at the Ign fuse A 40A. That passes through the starter relay and on to the starter to energize on the purple wire. Check for 12V on the ppl wire at the starter post with the ignition switch in the start position. If not:
3) The starter relay is energized by 12V from the ignition switch in the start position. In start, look for 12V at the Crank Fuse 10A in the under hood fuse block then at pin 85 in the start relay socket. If not then the ppl/wht wire at the output of the park/neutral switch on the side of the transmission. Still have trouble here then swap relays with the same value.
If this does not find the problem then its on to grounds and the ignition switch.
George
Assuming a fully charged battery in good condition. There are three paths for power that need to be working correctly:
1) The unfused main heavy black power cable to the starter itself directly from the battery. Make sure that its clean, tight, no corrosion at both ends and shows 12V at the starter post. If OK:
2) The power that will energize the starter and engage the starter gear. Battery power passes through an inline 175A cable fuse and then on to the under hood fuse block. Check for 12V at the Ign fuse A 40A. That passes through the starter relay and on to the starter to energize on the purple wire. Check for 12V on the ppl wire at the starter post with the ignition switch in the start position. If not:
3) The starter relay is energized by 12V from the ignition switch in the start position. In start, look for 12V at the Crank Fuse 10A in the under hood fuse block then at pin 85 in the start relay socket. If not then the ppl/wht wire at the output of the park/neutral switch on the side of the transmission. Still have trouble here then swap relays with the same value.
If this does not find the problem then its on to grounds and the ignition switch.
George
Didn’t he say it cranks and no start?
Op, open hood + rain? Check for moisture in cap
#17
10-06-2020, 02:43 PM
Thanks for the specific test points. I am leaning towards a ground being the issue
Regarding the (no)starting - the sequence was as follows :
*HEAVY RAIN*
(cold start) : fired up fine
idled for ~15 minutes doing the transmission flush
(hot start) : no crank, no start
~~ time passes ~~
(next morning around 8AM cold start) : cranked, no start
~~ 10 hours later ~~
(evening 9PM cold start) : fired up fine!
as a sanity check I repeated the first start-stop-start sequence before I left for work this morning. It fired up fine when cold. I let it idle for about 15 minutes then shut it off. Came back 10 minutes later and it fired up normally.
Maybe the issue was a combination of things, like a marginal starter ground coupled with moisture in the cap?
Regarding the (no)starting - the sequence was as follows :
*HEAVY RAIN*
(cold start) : fired up fine
idled for ~15 minutes doing the transmission flush
(hot start) : no crank, no start
~~ time passes ~~
(next morning around 8AM cold start) : cranked, no start
~~ 10 hours later ~~
(evening 9PM cold start) : fired up fine!
as a sanity check I repeated the first start-stop-start sequence before I left for work this morning. It fired up fine when cold. I let it idle for about 15 minutes then shut it off. Came back 10 minutes later and it fired up normally.
Maybe the issue was a combination of things, like a marginal starter ground coupled with moisture in the cap?
#18
10-06-2020, 03:16 PM
The one thing a tech learns early on is to listen to the customer. This alone rules out a lot of “possibilities”. Instead of copy and pasting a bunch of stuff off google and making someone’s head spin, a huge part of diagnosing is to simply listen to the problem and then take the MOST LIKELY courses of action to resolve it.
A: it rained, then car didn’t work.... CLUE!
Lol, I’m not trying to make waves here, but then again I hate to see someone given a huge list of **** that’s incredibly unlikely to be the underlying cause.
A: it rained, then car didn’t work.... CLUE!
Lol, I’m not trying to make waves here, but then again I hate to see someone given a huge list of **** that’s incredibly unlikely to be the underlying cause.
#20
10-06-2020, 03:23 PM
The one thing a tech learns early on is to listen to the customer. This alone rules out a lot of “possibilities”. Instead of copy and pasting a bunch of stuff off google and making someone’s head spin, a huge part of diagnosing is to simply listen to the problem and then take the MOST LIKELY courses of action to resolve it.
A: it rained, then car didn’t work.... CLUE!
Lol, I’m not trying to make waves here, but then again I hate to see someone given a huge list of **** that’s incredibly unlikely to be the underlying cause.
A: it rained, then car didn’t work.... CLUE!
Lol, I’m not trying to make waves here, but then again I hate to see someone given a huge list of **** that’s incredibly unlikely to be the underlying cause.
George