Open Diff Out - Limited Slip In
#21
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At this point I still have not installed the limited slip diff yet, awaiting parts and bearing puller. I did finally determined exactly what this diff I got is though...not what I thought.
It is a Yukon Dura Grip limited slip; style with clutch packs on both axle drive gears.
I thought it was a GM positrac from a 70's Camaro...nope.
Anyways once I get the carrier bearings replaced, I will try again. Oh and I have removed the tone ring....it came off much easier than I thought it would.
It is a Yukon Dura Grip limited slip; style with clutch packs on both axle drive gears.
I thought it was a GM positrac from a 70's Camaro...nope.
Anyways once I get the carrier bearings replaced, I will try again. Oh and I have removed the tone ring....it came off much easier than I thought it would.
#22
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#23
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Thanks Tom....I doubt that I will ever stress this unit....not like I am going to be doing any serious off-roading...just do not want to get stuck in mud (should it actually ever rain here again!)....or loose sand/rocks.
I will still be on the streets for 99% of the time.
I will still be on the streets for 99% of the time.
#24
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The bearing separator/puller I purchased arrived, but it was just too cheap to pull the bearing off. The aluminum puller was no match for the steel bearing cone....the aluminum just peeled. So I got out the trusty Dremel tool again, cut part-way through the bearing cone. Then used a cold chisel in the cut to crack the cone and each easily lifted off.
Also decided to get new clutch packs, which have arrived, along with new diff cover seal and a bottle of friction modifier.
I just need to either find a shop that will press the bearings on for me or try the "heat the bearings and slide them on" method.
Later
Also decided to get new clutch packs, which have arrived, along with new diff cover seal and a bottle of friction modifier.
I just need to either find a shop that will press the bearings on for me or try the "heat the bearings and slide them on" method.
Later
#25
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#26
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I saved both carrier bearing cones to use to drive the new bearings on......I did one yesterday using a heat gun to warm-up the bearing, then I was able to drive it onto the carrier pretty easily using the old cone, a flat square of 1/4" steel plate and a small hammer.
Will do the other one today, get the new clutch packs coated with friction modifier and then into the carrier. Getting the spring plate in is a bit of a challenge!.....then this weekend do the diff swap (again).
Will do the other one today, get the new clutch packs coated with friction modifier and then into the carrier. Getting the spring plate in is a bit of a challenge!.....then this weekend do the diff swap (again).
#27
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The aftermarket unit that you have is so much better than a Gov-lock!! Good job on the carrier bearings. Where there is a will, there is a way. I can see how that would work.
Has the rear end been quiet lately with the old carrier again? Did you see any problem with the old carrier bearings on the posi carrier?
You know you can adjust the posi by using different tension springs???
Has the rear end been quiet lately with the old carrier again? Did you see any problem with the old carrier bearings on the posi carrier?
You know you can adjust the posi by using different tension springs???
Last edited by LesMyer; 11-13-2020 at 09:57 AM.
#28
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Hey Les;
Cutting the bearing cage and then cone with the Dremel was easy and only took 5-8 minutes for each one.
The open-diff rear end is as quiet now as it was, even being a bit tighter on the backlash.
I looked and looked at the old bearings on the Dura Grip, never did see anything wrong with them. I actually thinking that I did not have the bearings pre-loaded enough as I had the backlash at 0.009" instead of the 0.003 - 0.006" that I found it should be. If I replaced the bearings needlessly, oh well...such is life.
I have the stock 100 lb springs right now and going to see how they do. Yeah I could go to 200 lb springs....now you have me thinking again......
Cutting the bearing cage and then cone with the Dremel was easy and only took 5-8 minutes for each one.
The open-diff rear end is as quiet now as it was, even being a bit tighter on the backlash.
I looked and looked at the old bearings on the Dura Grip, never did see anything wrong with them. I actually thinking that I did not have the bearings pre-loaded enough as I had the backlash at 0.009" instead of the 0.003 - 0.006" that I found it should be. If I replaced the bearings needlessly, oh well...such is life.
I have the stock 100 lb springs right now and going to see how they do. Yeah I could go to 200 lb springs....now you have me thinking again......
Last edited by LannyL81; 11-22-2020 at 05:20 PM.
#29
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Following what Yukon recommends, I got a bottle of their friction modifier and soaked the new clutch discs overnight. But HOLY CRAP!....the smell of that stuff is the worst!! I thought 90W gear lube had a bad smell....but this Yukon friction modifier....is horrible!!!!
I got the Dura Grip re-assembled....as far as I got....I needed fresh air. Next weekend I will do the swapping of ring gears and get the Dura Grip installed....
Did I mention how awful of a smell that Yukon friction modifier has.......
I got the Dura Grip re-assembled....as far as I got....I needed fresh air. Next weekend I will do the swapping of ring gears and get the Dura Grip installed....
Did I mention how awful of a smell that Yukon friction modifier has.......
#30
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So I am a bit slow....but got the open diff out and the ring gear off today. Cleaning the red thread locker off the ring gear and bolts....this is taking time. I should be able to at least get the ring gear onto the Dura Grip diff tomorrow, perhaps back in the housing.....may be.